Re: Samsung Syncmaster 2333 No image, power OK

I can't seem to get into the menu in the first place. if I hold menu on boot I get "Test Pass" message. No actual menu is ever shown- how is it supposed to behave?
Also, found an Acer service manual (on their own servers oddly enough) created by Innolux that seems to include a universal schematic- most parts match. It even has comments like "Dell -install Rxxx, Benq, Samsung only etc"
[URL="http://support.acer.com/acerpanam/Manuals/acer/2010/ServiceGuides/SG_B243HL_20090714.pdf"]http://su...

Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame

Sorry, didn't think anybody would care for a model number. Antec Smart Power SL400. The label is a royal pain to photograph- too many reflections...

Re: the gutless, bloated, and fried power supply hall of shame

Here is an 8 years old Antec that was still running, though a bit unstable. Nice collection of toasted caps awaits:...

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 2333 No image, power OK

VCCF1 is 4.78V
The other points you've circled are GND and I2C CLK and DATA
GND is around 0v. CLK and DATA are idle at 3.3v and I did not catch any traffic. U101 is fine 4.78V In 3.3V out.

The switcher to the right (U201). is generating +27, +5.6 and 9V and+12V as far as I can tell. There is a lot of audible noise from it with the cover removed. U201 is AAT1168B1

U102 Novatek NT71208 runs a bit warm.

Re: Samsung Syncmaster 2333 No image, power OK

The panel board? Here you go. I did not bother with whole board, just the main section. The rest is just driver flex connections

Thanks for the kind words- I started the blog when I realized I've been fixing and tearing apart lots of things that other may find useful. Pictures are taken with an odd camera- Olympus TG-1. Its' a rugged/water and drop resistant thing to go swimming/hiking etc with, but image stabilization and high sensitivity get me better results than a DSLR ...

Hello all, I am new to this forum though not to electronics.

Samsung Syncmaster 2333 made in September 2009. If it sits by itself, with no input signal, I get alternating Digital and Analog input decals on the screen. As soon as I connect a known good signal, I see a white line for a second and screen goes gray. Backlight is alive, power on LED is on.
Caps on the power supply are SAMXON in the inverter section and Lelon or the like in the Secondary side. No signs of bulging or venting. All power rails look happy and clean with a meter and scope. I see no ripple, pulsing...