Nothing against you, I'm grateful for everyone's help here. I was just confused by your post #19 because at that point in the thread I was already doing the test correctly as you describe.

Davi.p, I simply wanted to set my expectations right. I'll do some more research and tests today....

Yes that’s what I did in my latest tests. I got it wrong initially and figured it out afterwards.

Diah I don't see your point, I think I'm doing the test correctly. TCON connected to PSU via CN7 and to 12VM (on the PSU) through a jumper on F1. The mainboard was completely disconnected. I then forced the PSU to turn on with the standby 3.5V bridged to P_ON and DRV_ON. Because the panel might have been shorted and overloading the buck converters on the TCON, I tried disconnecting it from its ribbon cables and the voltages didn't drop anymore. My take away is that the panel is shorted, either internally or on its small bottom edge boards. But I could be wrong.

Davi.p, I'll go back...

Testing the TCON with the left most ribbon disconnected from the panel I get a white line! I think that confirms the panel being the issue? I've tested all the exposed caps and they seem fine to me. I guess there are more under the metal chassis... maybe it's time to get the Dremel..

IC3000 on the mainboard controls the wake from standby as far as I know. It probably also gets feedback from the TCON, so refuses to turn on the TV after detecting the issue

I see, makes sense. Should I just scrap it then? A replacement it's not worth it

Ok I've connected the TCON to 12V via F1 and now I can see that most parts of the circuit have voltage, yet no image. I've turned on 24VD too. The board draws around 0.25A on the 12V rail, and UC19 gets warm to the touch. I tested all the ceramic caps on the TCON and there were no shorts I think.

With the ribbon cables going to the panel disconnected, some test points measure different voltages: [TABLE="border: 1, cellpadding: 1, width: 200"]
[TR]
[TD] [/TD]
[TD]panel connected[/TD]
[TD]panel disconnected[/TD]
[/TR]
...

As far as I could tell 12VT_ON only enables 12VT on P202, which is not connected to anything on my particular model. The other 12V rail, 12VM on P201, goes to the main board (and probably the TCON too through the ribbon cable, I have to check), and turns on with P_ON.

I'll try testing the panel alone again as you suggest. Probably the reason why I wasn't getting any voltage on the TCON was because of the missing 12V. Now, to do this test, should I force the PSU on with everything connected or is it better to bypass the main board and deliver 12V to the TCON via a jumper on F1?...

Cool thank you.
Also, to test the TCON while it's disconnected from the main board, is connecting CN7 enough? That only feeds 24V. I wasn't sure if I could force the PSU on with the main board connected, so TCON was disconnected from P1 during my tests yesterday. Looking at it more now, that ribbon cable might carry 12V to the board. Do I have to jumper 12V to it? In that case I guess that would be on the top right corner where F1 is.

Another thought, if the issue is the TCON, shouldn't the TV turn on with it disconnected? I've already tested that and it doesn't. Maybe the main...

It's doable with a heat gun? I don't have a reflow plate. I think tomorrow I'll check the ceramic caps for shorts first. If there's a faulty component what could be a safe voltage and current to inject to try locate the shorted component? I'm thinking something that will be enough to melt wax or something.

Hi everyone,
I'm trying to troubleshoot and repair this old LG OLED curved TV, model 55EG910V.
I did some basic troubleshooting and reviewed most related posts here, but I wasn't able to isolate the issue.

The TV shut itself off during playback and never came back to life - the standby light remains off. My dad claims that it has happened a few times in the past but the issue resolved itself after some time. Not this one.

After checking the basics I did the following:[LIST][*]I measured all voltages and as expected the only active supply is the 3.5V standby....

Hi all! I just joined after seeing a topic related to an LG OLED TV I'm trying to fix. A lot of valuable information here already, looking forward to more!