Short Update: I didn't stop, because I am doing it for fun more than any other reason. I noticed that, by taping of the VGH pin to the right buffer board I get a constant QLED picture on boot up, but the TV still turns off(I got a milisecond of half the regular TV home screen once). Other than that, no new discoveries I don't really know where else if could look. Does someone know what kind of resistance I should get after the small resistors next to the testing points towards the end of the boards? I will try contacting Samsung for some kind of schematics if they can provide it....

Update: by taping off(sheer luck) i got a completly white screen meaning most of the pixels are still good. I'm 99% percent sure I saw few dead pixels. I'll post wich pins I masked of next and wich ones are Maske off in case it can help someone.

Also there are some vertical lines visable but i think it is due to more pins disconnected than neccessary. The Tv is refreshing in vertical lines basically.

++the chips heatsing on the mainboard is getting very hot. Dont know what the temperature there is supposed to be but could be the potential problem

Really appreciate the help. I can't pick which side I connect the motherboard with. The main ribbon leads to the left side, and a smaller (U-shaped) ribbon cable leads to the right side. By connecting the 2 points, it doesn't matter if the small ribbon is connected or not, the TV keeps turning on and off. Without the 2 points connected, the small ribbon has to be detached to keep the TV on. No more masking tape anywhere. (Probably irrelevant, the small ribbon has up to 3 Ohms on some wires. I don't know how this would affect anything, but maybe someone does...)

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Yes, the backlight works with the "extension" to the right buffer board disconnected. But I am still only getting backlight and no picture whatsoever......

Anyway, could someone explain to me what the problem with the 3.3V line is. My guess there is a short in the panel to the ground and the short triggers the circuit protection. Is there a way to find out where the short is and somewhat get the picture. I put so much time into this, and it feels so disappointing not getting out of it. I would be happy if I just got a picture regardless of the quality, so I can sell the main board and the power supply with good consciousness and throw the panel out the window at the next party :p (last part is obviously a joke).

But there are also some with high resistance?

https://[URL]https://www.dropbox.com...ually labeled.[URL]https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/81piij7jg2u58bxmzphu6/2.jpg?rlkey=ksn4fhct8k6blh2oafk7bwlaz&st=3a7xxqo4&dl=0[/URL]

Thank you for your answer. My search however continues. I just looked at the mainboard and noticed around ten shorted capacitors. Could this be due to my experimenting with the tape? And do you know where i could get the values of those capcitors? I am more and more confused by this TV. I am pretty sure i never checked the mainboard capacitors. But it is so weird that there are so many...

Hello everybody,

my TV has a problem. It keeps turning on and off. The speakers are still working, and I hooked up the TV to my PC, and it recognizes it as a Samsung device. I am able to get a stable backlight when I disconnect the cable(I believe it is called the LVDS cable) that connects the left lower board (which is connected to the "main board") and the right lower board. I have tried a taping method I saw on YouTube, where the CLK cables are taped off. In fact, I proceeded to figure out which pin I have to tape off in order to get a stable backlight. It doesn't matter...

Hi,
I am Bartol from Germany. Currently, I am studying physics and in my free Time I like to fix stuff. I joined because of an issue with a TV, and I am hoping to find some on this forum....