CuriousDave
Member
Last Activity: 11-17-2024, 08:13 PM
Joined: 08-18-2024
Location: San Francisco CA
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lotas[USER="169795"]lotas[/USER] is right about the clips. If you work with the BIOS often or not, better have the adapters. I bought the adapters cost less than $10 each and some are selling less than $5. The pins do not have enough space to use alligator clips. -
Please check NAND and every AON rail.AON means always on that killed many machines.Leave a comment:
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I use the programmers to rebuild ME region for Intel Mac and read the most of the ROM from different device with MiniPro TL866A which can read Mac EFI without removing. I tried CH341A once but not again. The connector clip was burning hot and app froze.
I bought another one called SFLY model SP10A on eBay. It works well for the job and I used the 1.8V adapter came with the CH341A to read the T2 ROM and other ROM in the macs. Works flawlessly. I paid only $35 when I bought it but now $50+.
It is Sofi Programmer clone which is normal for china.
[url]https://www.ebay.com/itm/355115942735[/url]...Leave a comment:
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Cannot locate the components with the picture. Can you please take another picture that shows exact location? This is like a close up and need the picture shows the general surrounding components. My buddy from Netherlands also looking for schematic but no luck yet. I will check with the Russians and Indonesians if they have it. I usually buy the schema once they get them but haven't find any where yet.Leave a comment:
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I am just wondering how much the programmer cost where you live. Isn't it cheaper to buy the programmer instead of trying to fix it? I just bought a new one from Amazon to find out if it reads the T2 ROM and it cost about $12 with two TSOP adapters and cables.Leave a comment:
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The type of chips are posted in the schematic. If you look at the schematics, every component has the identifier and part name. Don't waste time looking for parts with the code printed on them.Leave a comment:
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I had another one with no camera after removing the board and reassembled. The Ferrous inductor for the camera was burnt. There is nothing serious if you look at the circuit for camera. Mostly the inductor just died.Leave a comment:
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So I assume it is 820-02016 which I don't have the board view or schematic. I had the issue with a 16in a while back after replacing the battery. Took all day to catch the little guy after wondering what is the root cause. Check the pin 29 to 31 on the connector in diode mode.That is the most common problem. If I have the schema, I may be able to look up and point out which one to check.Leave a comment:
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Did you check the CD3215 and CD3217? There is still not enough information to do guess work. What is the voltage and current on the USB volt meter? Please start from there and test the always present if the input is at 20V. Otherwise hard to tell what is missing and what caused it. Is that liquid damaged or just died itself like many others with dead NAND chips?Leave a comment:
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Did you check the TPS62180 and the NAND chips? I have a few devices with 5V0A and these turned out the SSD got shorted from shorted TPS chip that sent 12V to SSD.Leave a comment:
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Hello Everyone,
I am David from Myanmar (Burma) currently living in the place I am embarrassed to say. I am in California San Francisco Bay Area. The curiosity since I was a kid put me in lots of spanking and punishment for taking apart what ever I get my hands on to find out how it works and I enjoy fixing broken things. Unfortunately, I did not get the opportunity to do what I like to do since growing up in the strict father. After college, I got the opportunity to do many things and I did what I feel like not worry about if I make money.
Long story short, I was trying to catch up...Leave a comment:
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