Took a while to get the parts but replacing the fuse and the ceramic capacitor did the trick.
I also rigged up a dim bulb tester, so that will come handy in the future!
I think I found the problem.
one of those 8pin IC's is shorted. I'll remove it and test to be sure.
looks like these mosfets are it: [url]http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/products/6710750/[/url]
thanks for the tip in the right direction.Re: Nyko Data Bank for ps4 not power...for the tip in
Hi Sam,
The part numbers on those 8 pin chips are 9435 1622.
Yeah that 3 pin ic had some sort of flux or something on it that wiped off. it looks ok to me, i'll upload another pic of that section of the board.
I think that may have also been one of the joints I reflowed that didn't look too good.
This is pretty much where i'm up to. trying to google the numbers on the IC's but not having much luck so not 100% sure what each pin is....
Well a disappointing update.....
I started off by replacing all the caps with Panasonic ones (what was on there were crap so worth replacing anyway) and re-flowed all the bad soldering.
and it still does the same thing
As the 12v only goes haywire once the console is turned on, I'm thinking there is something faulty that runs off the 5v it receives from the console (5v goes into the smaller of the two white connectors)
I'll have to try and trace it out.
This may be because it's in circuit, but I sometimes get a reading of 175k ohm and sometimes it's 7M ohm. Sometimes it starts out at 1 or 2M ohm and climbs up to 7M over about 10 seconds or so?...
Yeah absolutely, haven't connected the HDD since I noticed it not working.
I was expecting it to be totally dead, not jumping all over the place like that.
I think I'll start by replacing the caps with something decent (usually Panasonic is easiest for me to get) and i'll rework the bad solder joints and see how it goes.
Yeah there were multiple measurements for the bridge rectifier, both measured 0.57v on the diode test on pins 1 and 2, then the same for 3 and 4. Reversing the polarity gives me OL.
I'll check out the thermistor when I get home tonight. It looks like the easiest way to test will be to take a reading at room temperature, then heat it up and compare the readings?
I think i'll be making a dim bulb tester (I'll get multiple uses out of it I think)
Hi Guys,
I have a nyko databank that allows a 3.5" HDD to be used with a PS4.
The thing has stopped powering up any HDDs (the HDDstill works in a PC)
I have traced the issue to the 12V power supply. when sitting idle the power jumps all over the place as in this video:
[url]https://youtu.be/7jh1wkTOnXQ[/url]
You can hear the beep when i switch it on but then the voltage reading goes nuts.
The 5v comes from the console but plugs into the smaller white connector on the power supply (either to switch it on or just allow the 5v to pass through...
One day my wife went to watch TV when it went BANG!
I haven't plugged it in since but on the weekend I pulled the back off to take a look at the power supply. The Fuse closest to the power plug is blown.
I have check all diodes and resistors while in circuit (not ideal), none are shorted or open.
Is there anything else I should check before replacing the fuse?
I was at least thinking of replacing the samyoung capacitors to help it live a bit longer....
Thanks guys, If i get a chance over the next few days I'll re solder in a new one then see what happens.
That service manual is gold, thankyou very much.
Hi,
I have been given this Sub to try and fix.
It seems to go quiet after a while, sometimes turning the sub level dial at the rear makes it loud again. (when it's quiet it just sounds like someone has turned the volume down.
I thought this variable resistor might be faulty, but after removing it it seems to test fine, a nice gradual rise and fall in resistance on the multimeter.
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