Re: List of Bad Cap Manufacturers
I'm glad they made that easy to figure out.
The capacitors aren't very good, anyway. The ones I have all swelled up.
Doramius
Member
Last Activity: 09-19-2014, 01:58 PM
Joined: 11-01-2007
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Re: List of Bad Cap Manufacturers
I recently just pulled apart a few different items and have been noticing "chang" as a manufacturer of capacitors. I found it in a noname PSU, and on some small consumer routers. They're crap, as I frequently find them swelled. But I haven't found any threads about these caps. I had a bunch of Samsung capacitors in that size. Didn't have any Ruby's in that size, or I would have used those.
This is about all I could find on chang. [url]http://www.plasticfilmcapacitors.com/about.html[/url] Looks like it's a sister company...Leave a comment:
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Re: Jet Way with bad caps.
That's part of the whole reason why I am returning this board. I want to see what they'll actually do. Your prediction is about the same as mine. If it is, I'll be sure to post about it. I'm really not happy with the company for the customer service and the quality of materials. I'm hoping to at least get more info on their practices and allow people to realize they are just a crappy company overall and to just avoid their products.Leave a comment:
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Re: Jet Way with bad caps.
They are pretty crappy capacitors. They are the only ones that seem to fail on these boards.
Through personal use, I've found that the board is quite stable.....EXCEPT...once these capacitors blow. It's a shame, these really are good boards. That's what you get when you try to cut costs.Leave a comment:
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Re: Jet Way with bad caps.
Sorry for the delay in getting the pics.
Here are the boards side by side.
Can you tell the difference? Other than color, the ONLY difference is the BIOS. The stock BIOS for the MS, came with v5, while the JW came with v6.1. However, I updated the flash on the MS to 6.1, meaning they are still the same board. The MS was boasting OC capabilities, yet the JW had the exact same capability. Just a rebrand of the same board.
Anyway, here are the bad Caps on the JW board.
If you checked out my MS...Leave a comment:
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Re: Mach Speed with bad Caps?
I do have a hot air gun, but as others have stated, I would not have used it for these part replacements. I know for a fact that it's the leads that are just slightly too big. Just a tight squeeze. I've had stubborn parts on other motherboards. These were some of the more stubborn ones. I might even suggest a mainboard vice to protect the parts and allow a rigid hold of the board when trying to work on it. Or at least another person who can offer a hand or 2. I did it by myself, so it is possible. Just be very careful.Leave a comment:
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Re: Mach Speed with bad Caps?
I pre-wet and the heat is quite sufficient. i usually use a high heat for electronics. Even use a flux. I have little problem with most other equipment. It's definitely the holes.Leave a comment:
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Jet Way with bad caps.
Well, if I didn't learn my lesson the first time.....
This isn't quite in response to my first thread, as this is a completely different motherboard......kind of.
I had a previous issue with a Machspeed board with the thread here: [url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=5143&highlight=machspeed[/url]
I got the same model motherboard from Jet Way. So I have 2 PCs running this model motherboard, although the "brand name" is different. however, the issues I'm having are also completely the same. I'm going to push more on getting... -
Re: Mach Speed with bad Caps?
I've come back to revive an old topic. I replaced all of the 1500uF capacitors on the Machspeed board, and its been running like a champ ever since. i had noticed reviews about the board in regards to RAM and similar issues. My guess is the shotty capacitors is what caused the issues. I am quite surprised a recall was never issued for the board. I decided to buy the sister company's motherboard. The JetWay J939GT4-SLI-G 939. It is exactly the same motherboard. When I get some time, I'll take a picture of the boards side by side. Other than the colors...Leave a comment:
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Re: Mach Speed with bad Caps?
The letter and number might be something in regards to the materials used or something else that's company specific. I have no clue.
However, they would still be 1500uF @ 6.3V, and this is how you'd find your replacement. Try a 10V or 16V replacement and see what that does for ya.Leave a comment:
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Re: Help to identify SMD capacitor markings.
I never did get an answer from the site. I sent a few messages with no reply. Still no luck in figuring it out. I may have to unsolder an existing one and hopefully my tester will be able to properly read it.Leave a comment:
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Re: Help to identify SMD capacitor markings.
I'll see if I can search them out, unless you have a link? The device the cap went to was manufactured in 2001, so it's quite possible it is an older series. I just have no clue how to look up the specs. I don't know how many places would go back to 2001 in specs though.Leave a comment:
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Re: Help to identify SMD capacitor markings.
There's no other markings to determine manufacturer. It was in an external enclosure made by Formac. the enclosure doesn't even say the model type.
It says made in Germany.
Leave a comment:
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Help to identify SMD capacitor markings.
I need to replace a surface mount capacitor but not sure what the markings mean. Surface mount became popular after I finished electronics at a vocational school years ago. (I know, I've practically given away my age) Looks like it was just a bad solder connection, but the capacitor is ruined.
These are the markings:
Any help would be appreciated. -
Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage
I was told these are sachon FZ series. The board is a Mach Speed Viper 939GT4-STD-G. Jetway makes the same model board (Machspeed is owned by Jetway)....Leave a comment:
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Re: Mach Speed with bad Caps?
FYI - just so I don't keep getting asked this, Any pictures you deem usefull to show people, feel free to use. I've got a list together of all the caps that should be replaced on this board, and I'll try to post more pics of the recapped board if I can.Leave a comment:
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Re: What is RoHS?
120ppm is related to the percentage of lead in solder on the entire board. Companies (obviously not including China and a few other nations that don't seem to recognize or have such laws) will often use silver solder which has no lead. When rework is done, there is a limit to how much rework is done, before there is potential to damage the board. The percentage of lead used will still be below acceptible levels. The test they do for lead levels is where they take the board and drop it in a bath. The liquid litterally washes the board, and then is drained...Leave a comment:
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Re: What is RoHS?
The comment about the lamps was just a metaphor. Following on-topic, lead DOES have heavy meatal properties that make it toxic. Silver does too, believe it or not, but it's toxicity is much lower. It requires higher heat, which allows manufacturers use it only on initial soldering of a board. Usually the main soldering when the board goes over a wave of solder. If any repair is required, it is still done with a lead solder although it's probably a <20% solder. Some manufacturers ay a board can only have so much rework before they decide it's scrap because of...Leave a comment:
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Re: What is RoHS?
i thought to be RoHS compliant, the initial manufacture just had to be in the guidelines. Some companies use silver solder for initial manufacture. This removes the whisker problem. Repair with a low lead solder is still done because silver solder requires a slightly higher heat which can be damaging if reheating is required. Silver solder also makes it a little more difficult to remove parts, as the component leads tend to "stick" in the holes. However, light mixing of lead solder with silver solder often doesn't lead to cracking or cold solder connections....Leave a comment:
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Re: Mach Speed with bad Caps?
Well I really needed this machine, so I found a trusty old MoBo that I had hidden away, An old Slot 1 that's had about 4 or more years of good service. I just couldn't part with it. Still can't even though it's now missing 4 caps.
The Caps are green and gold 6.3V from Sanyo. Not sure if they are reliable caps. If they aren't, I'll order some Rubycons. I just need this machine going.
I also had an old PSU that still worked and had some 10V LTEC caps. Not sure if they are reliable either, but I have nothing that uses that style...Leave a comment:
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