Hi everybody,
I briefly unburry the thread to give you a small update, in case someone keeps stats about defect components on this PSU. Well the TV is back to life after having replaced D9105 😍
I'm really happy, as well as my mother in law since she can watch the tour de france now.
Thank you a lot for your help !!!
Hervé
hervou
Hervé
Last Activity: 07-06-2024, 06:25 AM
Joined: 04-20-2024
Location: Grenoble
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Well maybe I wasn't clear enough. I have tested both components (and did not compare results).
- You advised to test the Mosfet, seemingly it is okay.
- I've also tested the Shottky diode and it looks like this one is damaged - but actually this is obvious since my message #5.
I just thought you were wondering if the damaged Shottky had also destroyed some neighouring component, which was a good thing to do.
I replace the shottky diode and keep you updated. Thank you guys !Leave a comment:
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Ho maybe I wasn't clear enough. Probes swapped gives infinite resistance / OL on both.Leave a comment:
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[post edited, I've just got that a multimeter in diode mode displays volts and not ohms haha]
Ho yeah, right. I was in diode mode, but I didn't test both directions. Testing again I find infinite resistance everywhere except :
- red probe on source, black on drain : 0.9 volts drop voltage
- red probe on source, black on gate : 0.6 volts drop voltage
I've tested the nearby half-unsoldered shottky D9105 too, it shows 0 volts / 0 ohms in both directions. I guess there is no doubt that this one is dead.Leave a comment:
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You mean Q9106, which is a K22A10N1 mosfet (photo attached) ?
I've soldered out (easier than the CMS diode) and tested as requested.
I see no short between any of the gate, the source and the drain. Infinite resistance everywhere, even with the highest caliber on the multimeter.
If I should order some units of this shottky, feel free to advise a brand / model. Then I'll just have to find a friend with the appropriate equiment (or try with my 30W iron).
Thank you Diah !Leave a comment:
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Breaking news.
Preamble : I remember having tried to understand the schematic to identify the possible faulty component. At some point I must have considered that the smart next step was to unsolder one leg of D9105 to test it. But as I've got neither a desoldering braid nor a powerful enough iron (and no experience in that field too) I've damaged the soldering point on the board (and I would probably have burned the diode if it wasn't already). See the piece of art attached. Now as you might see on the picture, in its "natural position" the cathode is unsoldered.
...Leave a comment:
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Thank you for your help Diah.
I've got only a low-end digital multimeter, brand "Lifedom" (photo attached). The battery is new and I use the same caliber "20V" to measure the 12V and 3.5/5V, so I guess there is no doubt on this particular caliber.
Note : although I've had electronics courses I have no skill in understanding a power supply schematic or in cleanly unsoldering and testing components, that's why I have not tried to components (for example those contained in the famous "repair kit").
Capacitor C9149 looks sane on...Leave a comment:
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Philips PSU (715G7350-P01-000-002S) behaving funny
Hi all,
I'm becoming crazy trying to fix the Philips TV of my old man (model 43PUS6201/12 - the TV, not my dad). I've read again and again discussions about this and similar TV models, on badcaps (thanks so much !). I see no other option than asking for your help.
The symptom is simple : when I plug the power cord, the red "stand-by" LED does not light on anymore, and the TV powers-on neither with the remote control nor with the rear button. I guess at this point you immediately think at the 5V (or other voltage depending on the hardware) stand-by output......
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