OK, I'm about to give up on this card.
I also checked that there are no issues with PEX_RST, but the output of the U513 AND gate measures high. Since this directly connects to the GPU chip, it seems fair to say that all startup conditions should be present.
I tried to follow up some other leads, but all were inconclusive.
So if nobody here has any other suggestions, I'll call this card irreparable short of a GPU reflow/reball/replacement...

Since nobody is reacting to my post, I'd appreciate to know what I'm doing wrong here. The last thing I want is to annoy anyone or waste your time (or mine for that matter 😉 ). So if anyone could enlighten me, I'd really appreciate it.

In the meantime I have been trying to find more info on the crystal situation and after a long search I finally found some basic info on oscillator/resonator setups that leads me to believe that I am dealing with a crystal here.
I am ruling out that this is an oscillator because, among other things, it has no own power supply.

...

OK, I did some more looking around and I managed to analyze a similar crystal on an old MSI R9 380 I have which has defective RAM, but a working core.
It's surprisingly hard to get good info on how 4 pin crystals work and what voltage and signals to expect on the pins.

On the R9 380 I have around 850mV to GND on both pin 1 and 3 of the crystal, which I assume is a credible RMS for a sine at 1.8V.
According to a schematic for another R9 380 model I am assuming that the crystal has an identical pinout to the RTX 3060.
When I touch a probe to pin 1 I can see a sine...

Small update: After looking closer at the VCore voltage, I noticed that at the very start at power on, the VCore is at around 700mV, which I assume is the standard boot voltage, but drops to 300mV after a few milliseconds. The REFADJ pin also has a similar voltage around that time and then also drops to 0V.
Other than that, since the BIOS chip had pretty obviously been removed and soldered in again rather crudely, I decided to check the BIOS and found out that it definitely wasn't the original, so I replaced it with the stock ROM to make sure this wasn't the root cause after all. Unfortunately...

I just realized that embedded links don't seem to work, so here goes another try with URLs.

Link to schematics: [url]www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=2101580[/url]
uP9512R data sheet: [url]www.upi-semi.com/files/2461/670a490f-aa7b-11ec-8d5f-d30ecdd7d08d[/url]https://I just realized that embedde...cdd7d08d[/url]I just realized that embedded links don't

Hi, I'm currently trying to diagnose a Gainward RTX 3060 12GB "Pegasus" that I bought as damaged. I know nothing of its prior history.

A boardview for an MSI model, which matches the board layout apart from some resistor values I saw, was already uploaded in the past if you'd like to have a look (I used file V397_70). See [URL="https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=2101580"]www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=2101580[/URL]

It does not have any shorts but it's not detected by the system (i.e. not even shows up in the output of lspci and the CS pin...

OK, I finally can report back. I have unsoldered two of the larger 470 uF capacitors and tested them out of circuit. They are all OK and actually read around 510 uF with an ESR of around 0.28 Ohms. Of course, the pads on that board were extremely sensitive and I managed to detach them for one of the caps - that was a first for me.
But, well, I'm still learning and that gave me an opportunity to practice board repair... I managed to bridge the gaps and attach the cap legs to vias close by...
Next I tried the hard reset after making a backup of the secondary flash, and..... drumroll.......

Thanks for the replies. I checked the voltage of the PSU again with my new oscilloscope, a Hantek 6022BL and I found that the base noise level of the oscilloscope is quite high - but it's the best I have atm, so the result is a bit inconclusive.
Re-measuring with my multimeter and my Fnirsi DSO-TC3 I found fluctuations only in the mV, so I'd rule this out for now.

Also thanks for the hints about resetting the device - I wasn't aware that this was possible. I'll try to back up the contents of the display side flash chip before resetting - I assume that is where the address book...

Thanks for the replies. I now realize that, because my initial analysis was some time ago, I forgot to mention that the PSU was my first suspect, too, but the behavior was the same when I hooked it to a bench PSU, Also I could not find any voltage drop or power ripple with the original PSU.
As I said in my original post, I also checked all voltage regulators for stable output and they are stable. They only briefly go a few mV higher after the device resets, but I'd say this is because it briefly draws less power then.
The reset is pretty easy to detect because the speaker voltage drops...

I'm posting this here since there does not seem to be a more fitting category.

[B]The Device[/B]
The [I]Gigaset DA810A[/I] is a landline telephone with an LCD screen, an answering machine and integrated telephone book. I have the version for the European (i.e. German) market.
It has two separate modules that can operate independently of each other: One is the basic telephony part that always works and is powered by the DC voltage coming through the telephone wire. It relies the [B]TEA1110A [/B]telephone transmission and dialler chip for that.
The 'smart' part of...

Hi everyone!
I'm happy to have found such a treasure trove of knowledge here.
I'm mostly a software developer with a few decades of experience, but I recently got into electronics projects & repair and I'm happy to save things from being thrown to the dump. I'm still pretty amateur, but eager to learn.
Also shout out and a big thanks to Richard from Learn Electronics Repair, who also is a regular member here and from whom I learned about this forum and quite a lot about electronics and how to repair them.