I tried that to begin with. Verified all the settings in the service menu were identical but still wouldn’t work properly (purple tint). Maybe I missed a setting but I know 100% the panel was set correctly. Maybe there is additional panel settings deeper in the service menu but I couldn’t find it.
I do have before & afters pics. I’ll post later and highlight all the areas I had to modify....
DemonBG
Senior Member
Last Activity: 04-24-2024, 10:31 PM
Joined: 03-30-2012
Location: VA
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TV is back up and working! So long story short I had to extensively solder the 55” main board to match the same configuration as the 82” main board. Lots of resistor / diode banks that need to be reconfigured to match. Probably 20 components in all.
Once that was done, 1 of the 2 BIOS chip had to be transferred too which resolved the color issue. Strangely enough when I tried to transfer both of the bios chips I would get no power at all.
the only issue remaining is that the serial
number and screen info in the menu are still for the 55” model so I assume this info...Leave a comment:
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Thanks all,
So i actually have been able to get the 55" main board to work (sort of) i had to resolder a bunch of resistors / capacitors to match the original and now am able to turn the TV on and all functions seem to work well with the 55" main board and the unit no longer crashes. The only problem is that there is a purple tint to the screen.
I have updated the panel model in the service menu but still no change.
I suspect this is something in the service menu that needs to change. Alternatively im wondering if i can transfer the BIOS chip from the original...Leave a comment:
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When you tried the 55" MB, what symptoms did you get?...Leave a comment:
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Thanks for the replies all.
strangely enough I did notice the cpu was getting hot when the tv was off.
i remember Samsungs used to be interchangeable between sizes and you just had to set the correct TV size in the service menu. But perhaps that no longer applies?...Leave a comment:
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Samsung QN82Q60R - locks up / Crashing / Unresponsive
Picked this one up a few days ago. QN82Q60R. Screen works perfectly and sound works but after booting, the unit randomly becomes unresponsive to input (though whatever is on the screen will continue to play).
Tried standard reset - no improvement.
Tried service mode reset - No improvement
Service menu is difficult to navigate as the unit regularly crashes / locks up which means i have to restart the set.
Something i have also not seen before is that sometimes (not always) when i enter the service menu, i get an error "ERR by empty version Data.... -
Re: Vizio M60-C3 won't turn on. Is it the main board?
For what it is worth, i had exactly the same issue on a M60-C3 i picked up cheap.
[B]Symptom[/B]: standby light comes on, then fades out + optical port lights up. No backlight, no sound. after a few moments the standby light goes off and after pressing power again, the standby light flashes 16 times without powering on.
[B]Assessment[/B]: Verified PSU was providing 12v and 5V (PSon) but was not delivering 5v to the LED board.
[B]Diagnosis [/B]- Bad BGA contacts under the chips on...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung C32HG70 Curved Gaming Monitor - No Power
So i ended up transferring the MOSFET and a bunch of other through-hole components from the second board (which was stuck trying to boot) to the board which kept blowing fuses.
The good news is that the board now powers up. The bad news is that it has an unsual problem that i have never seen before in that; whenever there is the slightest movement in the power board, it cuts out and reboots.
I suspect there is a bad connection somewhere but after an hour have not managed to find it...
Does...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung C32HG70 Curved Gaming Monitor - No Power
Not sure if this helps at all, but ive done a little more probing and on the good board, when the board is off, i get 160V at the large capacitors on the hot side of the board which goes up to 400v when powered on.
On the bad board, the capacitors stay solid at ~160v despite the board trying to cycle to power on?
Any ideas out there?
Regards,
DemonLeave a comment:
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Re: Samsung C32HG70 Curved Gaming Monitor - No Power
Update:
I have checked all of the diodes again as well as all of the electrolytic and Polypropylene capacitors - All of them meter ok.
So one thing i have noticed:
On the good power board, when the main board is disconnected, i get a solid 12 -13v at the test point and 400V DC at the large capacitors on the hot side
On the bad board, i still get this fluctuating 6 - 16v but only get ~160v at the capacitors.
not sure what to make of this? Maybe a short somewhere?Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung C32HG70 Curved Gaming Monitor - No Power
Hi Budm,
I checked all of the diodes again and cant see any issues with them.
I will pull the caps now and test them and report back.
Thanks again,
DemonLeave a comment:
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Re: Samsung C32HG70 Curved Gaming Monitor - No Power
So i used the test point to the top left of the top side of the board which says:
"STBY: 7.5V ON: 11.5V"
Measurements with only mainboard (used the same main board in both tests) connected:
Good PSU: Standby: ~8.8V and 12.6V at power on
Bad PSU: Fluctuated between 5v and 16v & No standby LED.
Bad PSU with nothing connected , again fluctuates between 3V and 16V
Thank you again,
DemonLast edited by DemonBG; 12-13-2018, 10:07 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung C32HG70 Curved Gaming Monitor - No Power
Pinout voltages as requested.
I'm at the day job for the moment but will resume probing once I get home again
Thank you again,
Demon...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung C32HG70 Curved Gaming Monitor - No Power
Thanks for the reply Budm,
I tried probing the test point on the PSU yesterday that provides the standby voltage and it fluctuates between 3 and 9v. Any recommendations on the best place to take readings?
Thank you
DemonLeave a comment:
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Re: Samsung C32HG70 Curved Gaming Monitor - No Power
So the working PSU arrived which allowed me to test both monitors and confirm both have failed PSU's.
I have now pulled the second Monitors PSU and it [B]does not[/B] have the same problem. The fuse on the second set is not blown and i have checked that there is approx 160V across the capacitors on the hot side of the board when plugged in.
Again, i have checked all of the diodes and all are working, but still i get no standby LED.
Interestingly, this board has a different MOSFET (24N60M2)...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung C32HG70 Curved Gaming Monitor - No Power
So i have tried to identify the PFC IC but the only numbers i can make out are:
1762 1A5 / 1752 1A5 which i am struggling to trace on the internet. Does anyone have any idea what this could be?
thank you again,
DemonLeave a comment:
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Re: Samsung C32HG70 Curved Gaming Monitor - No Power
PDC or PFC IC? (im assuming typo?)
With regard to the filter Chokes, the internet has come up short on anything regarding "SQH2210S KS-1736CAK" which is printed on the filter chokes.
Thanks again,
Demon...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung C32HG70 Curved Gaming Monitor - No Power
Right you are Budm!
Thank you for the response - I took a surge arrestor from another known, good system and when it showed open circuit as well, i figured they are ok.
I am going to try and source a MOSFET and will report back here if i find anything.
I have highlighted what i assume is the PFC IC?
Without knowing what the original filter chokes are, how can i spec them?
Thank you all,
Demon...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung C32HG70 Curved Gaming Monitor - No Power
Thanks Biruslapio,
Thanks for your support.
I took out one of the SA designated little black inductors and it looks like it is Open circuit. i'll check the other one today.
Im wondering if the mosfet had gone bad and when i bridged the fuse it subsequently blew / burned out the smaller black inductors (and possible the input filtering inductors?) as well.
Now the problem is getting replacement components - For the life of me i cannot find those filtering inductors (SQH2210S KS-1736CAK)...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung C32HG70 Curved Gaming Monitor - No Power
Quick update - I have been probing around and have identified that the mosfet on the left of the board (a Magnachip 60R190QS) has gone bad.
At the same time i also removed the bridge rectifier and the rectifier diode and both of these test good.
On the subject of testing, i have no idea what the black resistor looking things (with Green Orange and yellow bands) are on the board next to each of the suspect transformers (Designated SA801 and SA802). They look like they run parallel to the transformers -...Leave a comment:
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