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I tested all of the inductors I could easily see and they all seemed fine, none of them read "0" but some did read 2s, 3s, 7s. But from my research they are usually low numbers. Some of them were 60s, 70s, 160s depending if they were on the outside or near the CPU/GPU. But no 0s...
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I redid the test and still got 0s until I used black (COM) on Drain and Red (VmA) on Gate + GND. Pretty sure I used the same colors on the PKCH2BB but idk if that makes any sense. Or maybe I just simply didn't press hard/accurately enough, my mistake.
So the new values for SM4365A are -
Drain to Gate = 739
Drain to GND = 465
Not sure if those values are good/bad since my knowledge of mosfets is pretty basic, I greatly appreciate your input. And ty for the information of degradation, that makes sense for a 3-4yr old laptop
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I don't see any edit button anywhere, but I do have another question. Normally my laptop would max around 88-90C, which is decently below the "safe" temps. It's possible other components were hotter than others, but do you know why this component might have burned up? The schematic shows a operator temp of up to 150C, so I find it hard to believe it hit 150C, but not impossible. 2 things might have contributed to it.
1. Laptop plugged in 24/7 for a couple months, maybe that component only goes "idle" when the charger unplugs?
2. I designed a 3D printed...
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Thank you for the response. I measured the two in what I hope was the correct way, and these are the results -
SM4365A, [URL]https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/1107014/Sinopower/SM4365NAKP/1[/URL]
Source to Gate = 114
Drain to Gate = 0
Drain to GND = 0
PKCH2BB, [URL]https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/1912111437_NIKO-Semicon-PKCH2BB_C384597.pdf[/URL]
Source to Gate = 115
Drain to Gate = 115
Drain to GND = 0.240
I should also mention, I did give the board a couple look overs and I didn't see anything obviously bad, other than those...
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Alienware m15 R1
Hi. I was gaming one night and my laptop suddenly shut off. It wasn't a long session, maybe 20 minutes at most after about 24hrs of no gaming inbetween, so it shouldn't have been super hot. The PKCH2BB for sure must have "popped" as it slightly cracked the clear plastic underneath the "A" button. The SM4365A looks a little yellowish from what I seen and also had the black plastic sheet melted to it before I scrapped it off. I ordered replacement components for both of them and I kinda want to give it a try replacing them. But does anyone have any idea if it is worth it or should...4 Photos
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Hi, I been into tech stuff (computers, audio systems, electronics repair, printers) for a while. I'm not the most knowledgeable but I am comfortable tinkering and like to learn more
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