The APU power rail was shorted over one mosfet. Was quite a hassle to isolate the faulty one :-D.
Finally I got picture :-)
Just noticed a typo in the title. It was a EDM-031 board. But only difference should be digital vs disk version....
groomit
Member
Last Activity: 01-03-2025, 08:48 AM
Joined: 05-22-2023
Location: Hamburg
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Okay - success!
The APU power rail was shorted over one mosfet. Was quite a hassle to isolate the faulty one :-D.
Finally I got picture :-)
Just noticed a typo in the title. It was a EDM-031 board. But only difference should be digital vs disk version.... -
Think I'm getting somewhere. One of the tantalum caps measures dead short. Never had them fail before. Maybe because of the low value short and the black colored housing it didn't stick out on thermal camera?
BTW. what are healty APU power rail resistances? If I'm not mistaken there are two phases. Shoud both measure the same?Leave a comment:
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Hi BwE,
Nice to read you here. I appreciate your work related to console debugging. Please excuse that, as a hobbyist and Linux user, I didn't use your tool with the proper code database.
However, I did quite extensive short checking on various caps - maybe I missed one.
Dou you think this could relate to the mentioned VRAM rail being shorted(=dead short)? I don't see a direct path....Leave a comment:
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Hmm, found something. The rail from attached picture is dead short (marked red). Is this the RAM rail?
The mosfet measures fine.
When injecting voltage only the direct contact point on the rail is heating up.
Internal short on PCB?...Leave a comment:
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PS5 EDM-033 - 2 sec BLOD - CPU and RAM not coming up
Hi,
Bought a defect console eager to repair.
Seller was not very communicative.
Upon arrival I noticed UART Pads had been soldered previously.
Read it out and got:
80810001 General power failure (periphery, GDDR6, APU, data line shorted)
F*CK. Had That before with a chipped APU. But this APU die looked good. However I found flux around it - previously reflowed?
Boot sequence is quite right 325 mA dropping to 9 mA.
Using the thermal camera I can see the SSD controller and South bridge getting warm.
But APU and RAM stay cool (=not... -
@lotas: You Are. Genius.
Thank you soo much for your responsive and helpful attitude.
I almost scrapped the TV and you helped me fix it with parts worth cents!Leave a comment:
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First intermediate update: by just replacing R075 and R086 I made two observations:
- Plugging both PCBs into T-Con resulted in black screen as before
- Plugging the left one only resulted in holy smoke from R075.
I assuume this is related to the old and defective D004 parts on both PCBs?
Will proceed with removing the D004s and the again defective R075.
Is it possible to test the tv with these D004 removed?Leave a comment:
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Will do.Is it save to use hot air? Not sure how to attack D004 otherwise.
I'm concerned about the glued ribbon nearbyLeave a comment:
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Thank you for the explanation. I see you do have practical experience with this TV/PCB - glad you found my request :-).
Just to be sure: By R068 - do you mean my replaced resistor R086? Do you think by adding the wrong value I fried something?
I will have a more detailed look on D004 and report back...Leave a comment:
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I measured all 4 diode packs to ground. All come out open line or in the mega-ohms. Except for 1-2 lines which measure around 4-5k on both pcbs.
Good spot on R075 - this is really bad (o.l.). It should be 100 ohm, right?
Regarding R086 - you found my "work". Now that I see it again (1.5 years after initial try) I'm not quite sure I replaced the small cap nearby or the resistor. Doesn't make sense to replace a warm resistor.
You're sure about the value (100 ohms)? My reference was the other PCB which I considered mirrored. There is a 10 ohm resistor installed.Leave a comment:
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Thanks for taking the time. Here the requested pictures. The diode packs read 4267H. Not sure how to measure them correctly. Found some Infos on the forum and will try to follow....
Leave a comment:
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Sure. Not sure what is important to see. I can do more and closer pictures if needed.
Took a picture of the whole PCB left and right (looking from the back). And there are two closer ones each showing one half of the suspect side....Leave a comment:
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Philips 50PUS7363/12 Backlight but no picture
Hi,
I'm having trouble with above mentioned TV. Bought it defect.
Picture was heavily compressed around the horizontal axis. Fiddeled and tried different things (mask clock lines, swap T-Con). But no difference.
Then I identified a heating capacitor on the left hand Signal-PCB (?) below the display. Replaced it by hand soldering. Checked for shorts afterwards. But now the screen stays black.
I can see backlight, but screen stays black.
What I've tried:
- Disconnect right side cable from T-Con -> same (backlight but no pic)
- Disconnect left side... -
Sorry for the late reply. Somehow I don't receive notifications for new posts.
Unfortunately I couldn't solve it untill now....Leave a comment:
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I can understand you just fine. Congrats for spotting the issue.
My motivation was the same: buy - repair - resell.
But as the SSD is bad and the battery too, it is almost not economical to do. Will probably keep it as I always wanted a convertible.Leave a comment:
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Wow, thanks a lot for taking the time. Your measurements support my latest observations.
I learned that VCC_CORE voltage is variable and depends on the CPU load.
Also VCC_GT doesn't have to be present all the time. This is supported by your VCC_GT measurement.
Turns out VCC_GT was a red herring. I swapped the SSD with a known working one with Win 10 installed and it booted just fine.
Still some things to figure out (but probably in a new thread):
- Left USB-C is supplying the laptop only when my USB-Meter is in-between.
- Right USB-C only...Leave a comment:
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Cleaning the ME Region did not help. Laptop comes on and diagnose-mode runs fine. So I assume I haven't f*cked the BIOS flash.
Still VCC_CORE is at 0.65 V. What I noticed: Upon Boot VCC_CORE goes up to 0.8 V for a short period of time and then drops to 0.65 V and stays there.
VCC_GT still at 0 V.
Any tips what to look out for?Leave a comment:
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Dell XPS 9365 2-in-1 LA-D781P "No bootable device" and low VCC_CORE
Hello,
currently I'm tinkering with above mentioned broken device. It started with a shorted PD controller. I replaced it and have an open topic on this forum on reprogramming it.
Currently I'm powering it with a bench supply soldered to the battery connector (laptop battery is dead).
This way the device is booting into BIOS and Diagnose mode fine. But when I try to restore the factory image during diagnose the laptop always greets me with "no bootable device".
Looking at the bios the ssd is recognized (shown with type and size in some storage menu). But... -
Meta Quest 2 not turning on - pulsing amp draw
Hi
Following problem regarding a Quest 2 I got with broken USB port and "not turning on".
After replacing the USB/Audio port + cable the Device still refuses to turn on. A USB multimeter is showing a pulsing amp draw ranging from 70 mA to 1.2 A and back.
All obvious caps measured good (no short).
A visual thermal inspection showed two ICs glowing up also pulsing.
One was a Qualcomm PMIC PM8150B which I suspected to be the culprit. But replacing it with a china-replacement made no difference.
The other one I can't identify. It looks like... -
Unfortunately not. After reballing every ram IC and finally the apu I get a different Error regarding a short somewhere. Need to investigate this. Hopefully I don't have to reball the apu again :-DLeave a comment:
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