hobostove
Senior Member
Last Activity: 07-24-2026, 09:42 AM
Joined: 05-08-2023
Location: Austin, TX
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It has Micron8G installed. That was board ID 011 so I only had to move RC823->RC812 -
NM-C781 Rev: 1.0 - Integrated RAM resistor disable not working
I'm trying to disable the integrated RAM, and I've set the board ID correctly based on the schematic. The RAM is still detected and it boots on just the internal memory. Also boots and shows both integrated and the RAM stick when it's installed.
Here is the table, and pictures of where the resistors are now. I've set the memory part of the board ID to 111 by populating RC812, RC805, and RC811.
Any ideas why the board would still see the RAM with it configured this way?
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Asus Prime X570-PRO Lost Windows Key
Hi Guys,
I have a computer that came in with a dead motherboard. We replaced it, but the Windows key is lost. I tried using WinKeyFinder on the backup I have of the BIOS, but it didn't find anything. Could someone help me recover the key? It's possible the backup is junk, but I don't think so since most of it appears to match a stock image straight from ASUS. Any help is mucho appreciated.... -
Worked absolutely perfect. Thanks Sparo!Leave a comment:
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Hey guys,
I had one of these come in today with the same "BiInitializeLibrary failed 0xc0000001" and "0135 fan error" issues. I flashed a BIOS straight from Lenovo (probably the same as SMDFlea posted above) and that fixed the issue. It now boots into Windows and doesn't have the fan messages.
Could someone give me a hand with the DMI stuff? I'm way out of practice and the help would be very appreciated. I've attached the backup and the original Lenovo BIOS I have flashed currently.
Thanks!
Machine Type: 90R8
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Schematic / service manual...
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Soldering them can be a bit of a pain since there's usually a row of pins hidden under the port, you can't reach them with an iron or make sure they're connected. But you have hot air, and that's all you need.
I found this option for buying it quickly. There's also Aliexpress for cheaper, but it'll take longer.
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Latitude-...dp/B0DBVD939T/
Here's what the repair looks like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APtiZ0WYQI4...Leave a comment:
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On the side it powers up on, does it negotiate more than 5V?
Not turning on at all means an issue with the CC lines. Since it works one way but not the other I'd say the port itself being bad is very likely.Leave a comment:
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Always dump a backup of the original bios. It contains DMI information (serial number, model number, etc) and your windows key. Someone can use your dump to reconstruct a new bios with the right info moved over.
When you get your programmer, post the dump here. And read this for what info is needed for the post. https://www.badcaps.net/..bios-requests...read-before-postingLeave a comment:
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Not available, yetLeave a comment:
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The switch chip may have been broken for a while, and you just noticed it because you were actively looking for a problem. Don't think it's related to the USB-C issue.
The fact that it got worse overtime and didn't just suddenly stop makes me think the port is dirty or damaged. Try to get a good look at the pins. You'll need a magnifying glass or microscope, etc.
What does the J7-C tester say on that port? Does its screen come on?Leave a comment:
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It's possible it's just a coincidence. One way to find out is you can power it up with that chip taken out. You just won't have 5V on that USB-A port, so it won't work. But everything else will work fineLeave a comment:
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Yeah, switch is definitely dead. The 5V in has only 14.5 ohms to jump to ground. No wonder is was getting so hot. Almost 2 watts going through that tiny chip!
Thermal Resistance Junction to Case, (θJC)
SOT-23-5. . .60°C/W (Means it was about 120C above room temperature) 😅
Board is good. Time to order a chipLeave a comment:
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Looks like a switch/mosfet. It may have gone short. Remove it like mon said, and test resistance between each of IN, OUT, and GND pins. Should be 6 readings. Also test the board pads resistance of IN and OUT to GND. Let us know what you find.
Chip Datasheet: https://www.badcaps.net/download/?id=8fa357ae...Leave a comment:
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Checked all the coils for shorts? Sounds like something is unhappy power-wise. Some pictures of the board especially the charger IC area would be helpful.Leave a comment:
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Have some board photos? The whole board and a shot of the chip would be helpful.
What was the original issue with the RGB before you replaced the KB? You said it got worse.Leave a comment:
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It's alive under load! I couldn't have done it without all of you, I learned a lot from this little detour. I feel a lot more confident approaching power supplies now. Big thanks to прямо, Per Hansson, CapLeaker, and special thanks to c1q3 for getting the ball rolling in the beginning. Sorry trash can, but you're going hungry today! 😉
Just a quick recap of everything it took:
TNY284 chip for 5VSB
Fusible resistor
15V Zener diode
2 transistors
CM6500UN PFC chip
all because someone dropped a screw in the case.....Leave a comment:
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It was my crappy tester again, loose connection. I think it's time to retire it. 12V is present after all! Next step now is to load it and see what happens 🤞Leave a comment:
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Anyone have some guidance on where to start tracking down why 12V is missing? I have 5V and 3.3VLeave a comment:
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Alright, new PFC chip arrived. Put it in, and now seeing 375 on the main cap. Tester stays on steady now, but no 12V yet. More to do!Leave a comment:
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