I removed the broken diode and cleaned the PCB there are no "ZD" or other Zener markings on the PCB. Already replaced it with 4148 and it's all good to go. Should use my brain more often. lol
Thanks....
I think you are correct, I put the damn thing under the microscope and found 8 on the other side. I can't see any other numbers as glass was shattered.
Can someone please verify?
Hello
Been a while since I posted on here, hope everyone doing well. Recently I acquired a few xbox 360s and one of them had a terrible fan noise inside the PSU. The fan wire is normally glued down to the PCB with some high temp silicone. Not an issue to remove since the wire is barely glued, however this one was buried too deep, so stupid me grabbed the needle nose pliers not realizing there was a zener diode under that damn silicon, so I ripped that sucker in half. Can someone please help me identify the correct zener diode? All I see is D1 and no other markings on the PCB and...
This was my old s 939 board that was laying around in my pile of old parts. The visibly bad KZJ failed long time ago I just never bothered fixing it since I was doing major upgrade. The reason I fixed is because I wanted to build gaming pc to play old win xp games.
The point is that KZJ and KZG have been known to fail under light use and we'll ventilated area.
[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xb0sg8QavDI[/url] similarly what happened to this board.Re: Shame on you Corsair! (Capxon)<b...<br />
<br />...
Speaking of UCC...I just recapped Old Gigabyte with bursted KZJ in it , yeah they certainly had bad batches for sure, but I personally had never seen bad KZE or KZH....
Quite honestly, I was surprised as well, but I sincerely hope it was not just my luck. There has been quite a few discussions on various forums regarding Corsair cutting corners. Perhaps they finally got the message? who knows...
Yeah Old thread, but the RM no longer uses Crapxon and Lshit. It looks like the new revision using 100% UCC caps, both for primary and secondary. Also the manufacturing looks way different now, perhaps someone else is making them for Corsair now. ...
Yep they did, Nichicon and Chemi-Con. I believe all of slims are made in china these days, shame... quality is just shit. Speaking of "quality" you should have seen the tim they used on Gpu and CPU.Darn, I forgot to take pictures.
Hello everyone.
It has been a long time since been on here. Anyway, I was cleaning my PS3 the other day and decided to take a look inside the PSU. WOW look what I found....Lelon RGL
And on the 12v output they use Lelon RXW 680uF 16v. wtf Sony???
none of the are "bad" visually, but I don't wanna wait for them to go
Problem is I can't seem to find a suitable replacement for for the two primary caps.
I found KXG 100UF 450V. Do you think it will be ok to use 100uF instead of 82uF? Interesting, the older version of PS3 slim where using Nichicon...
I'm gonna order Nichicon LE Digi-Key part# 493-3061-ND to replace 1500uF 2.5 v and for 330uF 16v the only thing I found was 493-3718-ND.
Any one used these before?
I recapped this mobo not too long ago, and what is interesting is that the CPU VRM in is at only 330uF and VRM out 1500uF 2.5v witch by spec might suggest perhaps they are?
If so, did I make a mistake by using lytics with the same capacitance?
Hello,
NTC thermistor (Part #SCK0510) has cracked near one of the leads.
Will it cause any problems? If so, what part would you recommend? Any advice would be much appreciated....
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