Got given one of these, told the usual "maybe you can fix it.."
When plugged in its produced an acceptable picture for 50% of the time. Backlight was strobing at around 1hz.

It uses two CCFLs from the same inverter, so first step was to test each one at a time.

Fault was fixed by replacing the rather puny looking Sanyo 100uf 25v with a new ESR cap. The old one tests fine on the capacitance meter but a new 63V cap fixed the problem. ESR gone through the roof converting the Buck inverter into a oscillator.

Found this thread which...

A computer accessory I bought today came with a tiny switchmode PSU in a mini plugpack (wall wart) casing. Its labelled as YD-001, 110v-240v 50/60hz, 5v 1000ma.

Having opened the thing up I'm concerned I even plugged this piece of junk in for the 5 minutes it took to test the device.

I consists of:
Low voltage cable soldered to the mains.
A tiny white crud coated circuit board.
A few 1/4w carbon film resistors, I love the one on the main input btw.
2 common signal diodes and a zener.
A sole power diode to rectify the mains to 400v...

Re: Yet another victim of Antec! Q about cap replacement or RMA

I have a dead Antec Neo HE 380W here which is full of OST and Teapo caps. The 5V rail still doesn't work properly despite the new caps, but at least it doesn't smell funny now.

It also has multiple dry joints and leads almost touching on the underside.

Perhaps the Antec Rep would like to explain the very long wait time getting replacement units under warrenty in Australia at the moment. The store says its due to Antec not having ANY replacements in this country, and on the phone today they...

Re: identify this peice and whats wrong with this picture?

You can also steal the fans and inductors off dead boards.

Odds are in most causes its the main chip which is damaged which should mean other components are still functional, ie mosfets, resistors etc.

I got an ATI 9800XT for $15, all that was wrong with it was a dead DVI port, and a short between the heatsink and a SMD cap. It also needed new thermal paste.

Re: Low 5v rail in antec neo-he 380

I replaced all the caps on the 3.3 and 5V rails, as I was out of 16V caps I only replaced one of those.

Still doesn't work, in fact I had trouble getting it to start. Basically if you plug it in with the atx power bridged on nothing happens. Wait a few seconds though and it works then.

5Volt rail still not good though. My only thought is the HV electro is bad too.

Re: Low 5v rail in antec neo-he 380

Well thats a new one symptom, something funny on that rail for sure.

For interest the follow caps on the secondry side:
teapo, Ost, JP ce-tur
Mostly Ost on the rails themselves

The build quality on this PSU is awfull, found a dry joint on a SMD ceramic cap the other day. All sorts of loose bits of solder clinging from pins and leads almost touching.

Testing it with just a 12V fan and all the rails come out within range. But connect it to the motherboard and it won't even post, the 5V rail measures 4V, but all the other rails are fine, even the 3.3V.

There is also a very fast clicking sound from the mobo speaker.

There are also a variety of suspect looking brand caps in there, none are buldging or leaking though. I'm not sure if a bad cap would cause a voltage drop like this.

What other components would cause problems like this ?
Faulty rectifier is about the only thing I can think of....

Re: Antec troubles - need advice

I had to RMA a smart power 500W recently, not only did it whistle like yours, but both the 5V and 5VSB rails are shot too. Taking a month for Antec to return something to replace it as all of Australia is out of replacement units.

My own true power-550 has been modded several times to fix things like the fan control mosfet blowing after a cable short.