Re: Samsung 225BW - Cap Identification
I just wanted to say from my experience with my 2253BW. Replace every single electrolytic capacitor on the board before trying any thing else. Make sure to test the fuses as well If I'm looking at the correct board online there should be a small brown cylindrical fuse and a small green pico fuse.
In my case I ended up replacing the common caps for my board and ignoring some of the little ones. (50v 10uf and 16v 100uf)
I then replaced the two really really small 8-pin driver IC's because it still wasn't working. ...
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Re: Samsung 2253BW replaced caps and fuse still broken
Fixed it... Surprisingly I actually soldered the IC's correctly. I replaced two more caps. 50v 10UF and a 16V 100uf. Had to use ones out of an old power supply but now the monitor works
. I probably didn't need the ics after all but I should have just tried replacing every single cap.
To anyone else out there reading this. Do them all before anything else.
I made the mistake of only changing the common ones that were being talked about. None of the others looked blown but they were! Also,...Last edited by darkphreekquency; 09-11-2011, 02:36 PM.
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Re: Samsung 2253BW replaced caps and fuse still broken
ok so I went over all my connections again (at the top of the pins) and found two that were not working so I fixed it.
Now when I plug in the monitor I get a low squeel and when I turn the power on the squeel continues for a second then it fades out seems different then last time ... Thinking I should have just bought a board
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Re: Samsung 2253BW replaced caps and fuse still broken
I think the general rule is no more than 20% out of range but these guys would know better than me.
I got my IC's in the mail from hong kong yesturday. Finally got the old ones off the board with some ribon,flux,desolderpump, magnet wire and lots of patience. Chipquick would have been the right option for sure as I had to repair a pad that partially pulled up. The glue on the bottom of the chips was really hard to break loose.
I just have a quick newbie question about the leads. on both top...
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Re: Samsung 2253BW replaced caps and fuse still broken
thank you all for the tips. Ive been soldering for quite some time now ( I think I was 8 when I first melted some wires together incorrectly lol) I was probably 14 or so before I really understood how to do it properly and im 28 now. Ive never tried surface mount stuff before so Ill have to get some chipquick and/or practice on some other stuff I have here. Watched some vids on chipquick though and I really couldn't imagine not using it. Ill post again when I get these chips in (supposedly the 6th) It would be so nice if...
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Re: Samsung 2253BW replaced caps and fuse still broken
This cat is just a nut. Hes a climber and loves to jump up on people shoulders and hang out. I just need to get a large dog lol, looks like you guys are right and the 1 IC is bad im getting around 1 ohm on some of the tests. After some digging I ordered the 2 IC's that were mentioned in the other thread. It looks like the same board design so I imagine those are correct. They look a little crispy too I bet that's why I cant see the part # any more. Any tips for soldering stuff so small? (other than tying the cat up haha)...
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Re: Samsung 2253BW replaced caps and fuse still broken
ok so i replaced the start-up cap with another one from a new power supply ( I have a ton of them and most are outdated and have low output) and I put back the fuse. now I am getting a much faster clicking from the board and the power button does nothing like before. Sorry for posting so much im not impatient or anything just trying to be as informative as possible
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Re: Samsung 2253BW replaced caps and fuse still broken
Ok so with the fuse removed as soon as i plug it in a hear a feint high pitch whining. When I push the power button the light comes on and the noise goes goes away (this is all with the 4 leads to the lights removed). That start-up cap maybe?
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Re: Samsung 2253BW replaced caps and fuse still broken
Here are some pictures Im not sure where the dc outputs would be is that where the 4 cables to the backlights connect? and I Would just test the resistance to ground? I am a bit confused but im going to pullt he fuse now just wanted to get some pictures upLast edited by darkphreekquency; 08-27-2011, 06:12 PM. Reason: Posting pics as an attachment instead
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Re: Samsung 2253BW replaced caps and fuse still broken
Thank you so much for responding so quickly, this is my personal monitor and its killing me not having it as I am a 3d designer. went over everything with a multimeter to make sure my cap connections were good. they are all in the correct direction. Im looking through all my parts for another 50v 47uf cap ... surprising its not in the 2 power supplies I have. Ive got a whole slew of motherboards to and nothing even close. I get continuity on the fuse even at remote locations and the small pico fuse is just the same as...
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Samsung 2253BW replaced caps and fuse still broken :(
Ok so I have a Samsung 2253bw that died on me the other day. I woke it up from sleeping and it flickered once and went black (as in the back-lights went out) I can see an image if I shine a light into the monitor. I opened it up and found 4 domed up caps on the power board. I replaced the bad caps (820uf 25v 105c) x 4 then tested. Still getting a solid power light and no back-lights (slight hum coming from inverter when plugged in).
Took it apart again and did some more research to find out about the small green pico fuse on the board which in my case was 4 amps. I couldn't find...
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