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Skoffer
n00b
Last Activity: 05-27-2020, 03:22 PM
Joined: 05-11-2011
Location: St. Louis, MO
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  • Re: Sceptre X22WG-1080P (different board than on other threads)



    Thank you for this. It looks like my problem was with the silicon caps, and also with not having the spacers between the bulbs. That was what was causing my vibrations, and turns out was probably also causing the bulbs to short out against each other. I used shrink tubing over my solder joints, and then used a small amount of silicon in about 5 places to secure the bulbs together.

    The monitor is purring like a kitten, now...figuratively. It isn't making any noise whatsoever.
    ...
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  • Re: Sceptre X22WG-1080P (different board than on other threads)

    Ok, well, it is definately the new ccfls causing the issue. either the bulbs themselves or my soldering job is still weak.

    The Sceptre x22WG-1080P is now working with the ccfls from the other monitor, which happens to be an Acer AL2216w. Funny thing is, the Acer seems to have a little more tolerant hardware than the Sceptre, because the acer is staying lit with the new ccfls. It is making a slight buzzing sound when the brightness is dimmer than about 60%, though. But above that, and it is fine.
    ...
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  • Re: Sceptre X22WG-1080P (different board than on other threads)



    4511GH
    626696

    Those are the numbers as read off of U2. The numbers on U1 are the same, but distorted, maybe by heat damage.

    That browning in the picture, though is not as visible with the naked eye. I had to get it in the light at just the right angle to see it, but it is definately present around U1 and not U2. U1, to my untrained eye, looks to show presence of heat damage.

    These are ICs, correct? How do I test them?
    EDIT - nevermind...they are mosfe...
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    Last edited by Skoffer; 02-16-2013, 11:57 AM.

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  • Re: Sceptre X22WG-1080P (different board than on other threads)



    Yes, I've done that. They stay on.

    I have another 22" monitor, working, and I think I am going to pull the ccfls out of it and see if the work, then try these news ccfls in it.

    I'll report back once I'm done....
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  • Re: Sceptre X22WG-1080P (different board than on other threads)



    Done.
    The only numbers I see on the Inverter transformer is LTL22000703U and 0734C6. You can see those numbers in my original attached pic.

    What should I try next? I plugged the 22" lights in to the 19" monitor, and all 4 lights light up, temporarily, but they suffer the 2 seconds to black on that monitor, also. I kinda assumed the 19" just couldn't push enough voltage to keep them lit.

    What would be my next steps, here? If the transformer is good, all the...
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    Last edited by Skoffer; 02-16-2013, 10:41 AM.

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  • Re: Sceptre X22WG-1080P (different board than on other threads)



    Do those values seem right?...
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  • Re: Sceptre X22WG-1080P (different board than on other threads)



    I got exactly 1 ohm on each light. I actually used that same guide as a reference before I started.
    I tested the 19" bulbs and got the same reading. I think my solder joints are good....
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    Last edited by Skoffer; 02-15-2013, 10:52 AM.

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  • Re: Sceptre X22WG-1080P (different board than on other threads)



    I got 645 ohm across both sets.

    btw, I updated the values for the other transformer. I wasn't using a high enough setting on multimeter....
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    Last edited by Skoffer; 02-15-2013, 11:00 AM.

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  • Re: Sceptre X22WG-1080P (different board than on other threads)

    Thanks for you help so far, guys.

    I don't know much about transformers, but below are the results I got from testing the pins.

    Here are my results on the transformer:
    [COLOR="Red"]1 to 2 - 1.0 ohm
    1 to 3 - 1.0 ohm
    1 to 4 - 1.0 ohm
    1 to 5 - 1.0 ohm
    2 to 3 - 1.0 ohm
    2 to 4 - 1.0 ohm
    2 to 5 - 1.0 ohm
    2 to 6 - 1.0 ohm
    3 to 4 - 1.0 ohm
    3 to 5 - 1.0 ohm
    3 to 6 - 1.0 ohm
    4 to 5 - 1.0 ohm
    4 to 6 - 1.0 ohm
    ...
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    Last edited by Skoffer; 02-15-2013, 10:29 AM.

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  • Sceptre X22WG-1080P (different board than on other threads)

    I've got this monitor that is having backlight issues. I have replaced all of the capacitors with low ESR caps purchased from right here at BadCaps.

    That didn't solve the problem, so I ordered new CCFL bulbs from CCFLWarehouse and replaced them. The reason I did this was I found out through testing with some other backlights that I have free, from a 19" monitor, that they light up and stay lit just fine.

    So, I have taken the old lights out and soldered the new ones into place. Here is where I think I did something wrong, though. Because I am still having the...
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  • Re: best brand on a budget

    I wish I would have seen this earlier. I've got 2 used 19" monitors that I have refurbed for sale. I would have sold you one of them for $60 plus shipping.
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  • Re: Dead Power Supply(XAD819AR) for Acer AL1706

    I've fixed about 15 of these Acer monitors. They are the easiest monitors that I have come across to fix.

    But, I had a few of them that gave me some grief, and it turned out to be burnt out backlights. Keep that in mind. The backlights are relatively easy to replace in these panels, you just have to be sure not to jolt the actual LCD too hard and rip one of the ribbons from the panel logic board. <-speaking from experience. I currently have a 17 inch panel that no longer works because I ripped one of the ribbons....
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    Last edited by Skoffer; 10-14-2011, 01:57 PM.

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  • Re: Sony Bravia KLV-40U100M no power to anything

    I found a solution that fixed the TV. At U24 there is some type of microprocessor that controls the reset. Apparently it is a very common problem for this to fail and fry itself. Apparently it isn't a detrimental component to the operation of the TV.

    I desoldered it from the board and voila...TV works perfectly now.

    I found this solution [URL="http://www.amazon.com/Sony-KLV-40U100M-40-Inch-Tunerless-Monitor/product-reviews/B000EOXK68"]here[/URL].

    There is a review by a user named Roundabout57...
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  • Re: Sony Bravia KLV-40U100M no power to anything

    XXX - In - Out
    U11 - 0.45v - 0v
    U17 - 4.75v - 3.28v
    U18 - 4.48v - 2.47
    U19 - 2.96v - 1.78v
    U20 - 0v - 0v
    U21 - 0v - 0v

    On the ones with voltage in, the outputs all match the number on top. Except U11, which was only showing .45v in and nothing out.

    I found a few spots on the board the have FB then a number. Are those fuses? I couldn't find any that started with just an F. I looked the board over 3 times.

    Oh, and in case you were wondering, I tried programming...
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    Last edited by Skoffer; 06-22-2011, 07:44 PM.

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  • Re: Sony Bravia KLV-40U100M no power to anything

    Ok, so according the the service manual, the PC_ON pin should be pin 1 on the 8-pin connector between the main board and the power supply.

    Pin 8 on this connector is the standby which I am getting the 4.77v.

    I am getting a constant 0.01v on the pin 1 even when I press the power button over and over.
    So it is looking like there is a problem with the mainboard.

    hoping to anticipate a suggestion, I recorded the ohms on the mosfets. My readings are on the attached excel file. Or if you can...
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  • Re: Sony Bravia KLV-40U100M no power to anything

    PlainBill, Thank You!

    I don't understand everything in that service manual, but I think I understand enough. Knowing what voltages I should be seeing should really help me narrow this down.

    But, the first thing I am going to do is program a Universal remote for this TV and see if it comes on from the remote power. I don't have the original remote for the TV. I never would have thought you could actually turn off the TVs keyboard.
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  • Re: Sony Bravia KLV-40U100M no power to anything



    Sorry, they failed on me because they were too big. I didn't realize it till I posted.


    EDIT - Ok, I made that a lot more difficult than it needed to be. Sorry about the delay....
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    Last edited by Skoffer; 06-21-2011, 07:09 PM.

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  • Sony Bravia KLV-40U100M no power to anything

    Ok, I have this TV. When I plug it in and push the power button, I get nothing.

    I have read different threads on these Sony tvs and everyone says that if you get the secondary 5Vs, then it is probably the logic board.

    Well, I have marked in the picture where I am getting voltage on the connector from the power supply to the logic board. I get 4.77V when Logic board is plugged in and an even 5V when it isn't plugged in.

    I have also marked where the power button connects to the logic board and I get 4.77V when it isn't pressed and it goes to 0Vs when...
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    Last edited by Skoffer; 06-21-2011, 06:56 PM.

  • Re: Acer 1716 problems



    Actually, I can't get the backlights to stay on for any longer than a few seconds, now. The only time it lasted for a minute or 2 was right after I had replaced one of the caps. But, before you tell me to replace the caps again, I have already done this and it didn't solve the problem. To be clear, I have replaced the caps on this board twice, and the second time didn't change the behavior at all. Even if I leave it for a few hours, now, it still just blinks twice and then nothing. btw, the LCD is displaying the image, I can see the desktop...
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    Last edited by Skoffer; 06-13-2011, 10:25 AM.

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  • Re: Acer 1716 problems

    Ok, I pulled the CCFLs out of a cracked panel that I have. That monitor worked fine other than the cracked screen, so I am aobut 99.999% confident that these CCFLs are working properly.

    Anyway, I plugged them in to the monitor and got the same response. When I turn the panel on, they light up, then go off, then flash 1 more time, then nothing.


    I have another inverter that I am having a similar problem with, I may post pictures of it later, but it is also off of an Acer LCD and is nearly identical to the one in this thread,...
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