Re: ASUS CROSSHAIR IV FORMULA - no reaction + HD LED always on
Well, no version os BIOS works, since it doesn't even power on. Doesn't even power on without CPU/RAM, and by that I mean that it doesn't turn the power supply on from stand-by. Literally no reaction to power button.
As for any visual damage, I don't think there is anything missing or broken....
N3Star
Member
Last Activity: 09-29-2023, 11:24 AM
Joined: 05-02-2021
Location: Frielendorf
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ASUS CROSSHAIR IV FORMULA - no reaction + HD LED always on
Hello,
As in the title I've got a problem with that motherboard. At the beginning this board wouldn't POST - it would hang at CPU led, different CPU didn't solve this issue, as well as externally programming entirely new BIOS chip.
Now it's a bit worse, there is no reaction to power. However, while on stand-by, HD LED is always dimly on, as well as "GO_LED". What links these two lights is IC 6MU1, but I don't think that it's the problem.
According to the boardview PU2007 regulates VSB just fine, 3.4V on pin 2 and 5V on pin 3, but there is quite a bit of "backfeeding"... -
Enable SSI320_8A01 inverter
Hello,
I have a display from a Sony KDL-32W4000 TV, which I'd like to make use of. I have a working power supply for it and completely dead motherboard, which is supposed to send a signal to the inverter to turn it on. So far I've tried only putting 1.8V and 3.3V on enable line of SSI320_8A01 inverter, which seems to do nothing - screen remains black. My question is how can I turn the inverter on and keep the brightness control at least somewhat usable? I'm also attaching the service manual for schematics.... -
Re: Abit IC7 no POST 2nd battle
Oh, we're going too much into new stuff, these are old TO-252 package, 60T03GH.
S-->D: right: 0.36V left:0.35V (reverse both 1V), which seems fine.
There is another change though - drains both look fine in terms of resistance (right - 1.3k, left D is connected to S of right one, has 2k Ohm), but source of left one is 69Ohms. That's the 1.5V line, going to AGP slot, but voltage seems fine with and without GPU.Leave a comment:
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Abit IC7 no POST 2nd battle
Hello,
previously I gave up on this MoBo, but here we are again. For starters I'll give a link to previous thread: [URL="https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=95433"]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=95433[/URL]
What has changed:
- I still don't have a PCI GPU, but I have a PCI dignostic board
- I measured the temperature and drain resistances of these hot MOSFETs:
(right) 3.3V line: 100Ohms, gets up to ~80C,
(left) 1.5V line: 430Ohms, gets up to ~65C
What PC diagnostic says:
-without GPU: goes through all... -
Re: Rework with Scotle IR-PRO-SC
For *some* reason I just cannot solder with rss profile, it has to be more of rts shape. Though I like leaving a bit of time for the PCB at 130-170C to soak this temperature.
Don't sweat it, but do You remember temperature rise rate for the final step? Since You have IR plates at 120C it's likely that our stations differ quite a bit, because mine doesn't have bottom HR component, it's all dark IR. This also seem to differ with other knowledge I got (bottom should do most of the work, top only for the last step), but then again everybodys profiles...Leave a comment:
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Re: Rework with Scotle IR-PRO-SC
Earlier today I did a test of how quickly this machine (100% power bottom heater only) can get a Xbox 360 mobo up to 200C, results in picture. I tried to make a profile out of it, it's about 300 seconds long (not included bottom heater initial phase of getting these +60 degrees), suitable for 70-90% power of bottom heater, I also upped the top heater temperature to 225C....Leave a comment:
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Re: Rework with Scotle IR-PRO-SC
OK, if You do anything later then please do take a picture of the slope. I'll also try on my own to more or less replicate that profile.
BTW, while we're at it, do Your boards get yellowed? Mine after 5min profile are in immaculate condition, but those after 10min one are kinda yellowed.Leave a comment:
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Re: Rework with Scotle IR-PRO-SC
OK, how does Your profile look? I mean the slope, I think as long as it's made for IR upper heater I'll be able to replicate and try it. I also drew a rough sketch of how my profile looks like....Leave a comment:
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Re: Rework with Scotle IR-PRO-SC
All my profiles go up to 220C, but due to thermal inertia it's higher, I never saw any temp higher than 230 on TC though.Leave a comment:
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Re: Rework with Scotle IR-PRO-SC
No, 200C was test only, I wanted to see what temp I would get without top heater (real bottom temperature). As I said on a regular profile I can take off the chip at ~225-230C.Leave a comment:
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Rework with Scotle IR-PRO-SC
Hello,
I'm having major trouble with rework on this station. I (since most likely it's profile problem) keep killing or at least damaging chips. For now I'm using 3 TCs, 2x0.127 and one 0.25, all omegas, all are within 3 degrees from each other, I try to keep the TC end on the substrate and motherboard. GPU usually moves at ~225-230C on TC, so it's more less accurate. I mainly rework old GPUs and Xbox 360 on it. I have modded it to use variable bottom temp with P-soft, bottom max temp is 260C, realistically on thinner PCB I get 200 degrees, ramp is +60C from the profile (set like that so... -
Re: Retro 8800 GTX from EVGA artifacts
Yep, that was exactly it. I feel like a magician - broken VRAM chip @ bank 1, module 1.Leave a comment:
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Re: Retro 8800 GTX from EVGA artifacts
2 things that I forgot to mention:
- does anybody still have an older Nvidia MATS version? I have tried 295 from vlab, but I can't get anything to work, even other modules on modern 1080Ti.
- in case memory went bad: the VRAM chips present on this GPU are extremely expensive, but I found cheaper alternative, still Hynix, still rated at correct frequency (original 1000, these 900; VBIOS reports 900), marking is HY...-FP1 vs HY...-FP11, can I replace all chips with these cheaper ones, or do I need to buy 1 or 2 of these expensive...Leave a comment:
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Retro 8800 GTX from EVGA artifacts
Hello,
I need help identyfing what is broken on this GPU - GPU core or VRAM. Let's start with what I did and know so far:
- disassembled, added missing SMD capacitors from same GPU
-(If anybody knows what Q518 is and would share this information I would be very grateful)
- artifacts during Windows booting are blue vertical stripes, I can take a photo if that would help
- artifacts in Windows are yellow-ish horizontal lines
- in BIOS/ text on black screen text gets extremely garbled
- GPU-Z doesn't show GPU or VRAM frequency
- GPU error 43... -
Re: 8800 GTX no signal
So far I've found 2 missing caps - one under the core and one marked as C529, replaced them and I feel like everything heats up more and faster - the core definitely heats up the fastest, then the power delivery, RAMDAC and memory next, but when I try it with heatsink the heatpipes are cold, fan at 100%.
VBIOS is MX25L1005, 2.7V-3.6V, gets 3.29V, but CS# is always high, SO is always pulled to ground and there is no SCLK signal.
The closest I can see to 5V is 4.45V at the MOSFETs gate, core side.
There is only one fuse marked on the...Leave a comment:
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Re: GTX 980TI with 2 broken pads on memory module
I really doubt if flashing 'regular' 980 VBIOS would work - they have different cores. I'm just saying that I believe it would be technically possible to check where memory signatures are stored and replace them on 980Ti VBIOS, but even if You would do that Nvidia driver still possibly could assign data to physically missing memory chips.Leave a comment:
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Re: GTX 980TI with 2 broken pads on memory module
There probably is a way to edit VBIOS, but wouldn't that collide with Nvidia drivers? I'm thinking fake cards, marketed as GTX1050Ti or so, which usually are GTS450 or something like that - they crash because drivers allocate data to memory which doesn't exist on the GPU.Leave a comment:
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8800 GTX no signal
Hello, the GPU I'm trying to repair produces no signal, fans spin at 100% all the time and isn't recognized in Windows at all. All chokes have voltage, resistance from GPU power delivery to GND is at ~1.1 Ohm (1.7 on multimeter) so I guess it's OK. It recognizes no PCIE power plugs with its speaker. The weird thing is that the core hardly heats up - by that I mean that the MOSFETs on power delivery are hotter than core, but at the same time I can't feel any component burning hot. Previous owner told me that it had artifacts, so I feel like it might have been in oven or under hot air gun guessing... -
Re: PS3 CECHC04 no power
It's a SB_5V -> SB_3.3V voltage regulator, NCP511SN33T1G, successfully replaced by TK63133SCL-G. Look [URL="https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:sony_ps3_cok-002_5th.pdf"]here[/URL], page 23, there are two 3.3V converters, one on each side, but only IC6005 is enabled on stand-by, on schematic its output is marked as +3.3V_EVER, second one is enabled by IC6004.Re: PS3 CECHC04 no power
It's a SB_5V -> SB_3.3V voltage regulator, NCP511SN33T1G, successfully replaced by TK63133SCL-G. Look [URL="https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:sony_ps3_cok-002_5th.pdf"]here[/URL],Leave a comment:
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