You're right, it works fine. Thanks for advice!
Thread can be closed, Dyson back up and running.
mrsith
Senior Member
Last Activity: 05-08-2026, 07:43 PM
Joined: 03-23-2021
Location: Glasgow
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Dyson V11 Outsize Sv28 - component identification
Hi folks,
I've been playing with a Dyson V11 Sv28, which suffered from typical bad caps issue. Upon removing old caps, I noticed a chipped SMD component (it must've happened when prying the board, my fault completely). It measures open each way, so I assume it's dead. Would you be able to help identifying what component it exactly is please? It's marked U11 on board and has H28NB top marking.
Any help much appreciated!... -
Quick wash finished with no issues. Thanks so much everyone for help, I learned a lot during the whole process!...Leave a comment:
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Trace was bad. Looked alright to eye, but didn't conduct fromain fuse to that NTC resistor. Had to take the relay out to make sure it's actually the same trace lol. Made a jumper, found a similar diode on one of scrap TV mainboards I had in cupboard (was a bit bigger, marked T4 P with P being rotated), put it together and the machine turns on again. Need to assemble. It back, connect water and drain and see if it manages to finish a program.
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That could be it, maybe I have burnt the trace coming from fuse to the smaller rectifier. I'll take out the fuse tomorrow and check the traces around it. I was quite gentle with soldering iron, but heated the solder quite long to make sure it flows where it needs to. Maybe that was too long.
There are similar relays on the board, coil resistance looks similar. That main relay only activates when the power button is touched, so I guess even if something was wrong there, I should still be getting 5v and 12v to power to control panel.Leave a comment:
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It's marked on pcb thankfully.
Would I get any dc reading at all if only one ac terminal was connected to a rectifier? Maybe I actually shoved my probes right there, just only one pin was getting ac power so the reading was 0? That'd explain no continuity between rectifier and ac L input, and pretty much everything else that's happening with the board.
I'm afraid I'll have to take the relay out anyway, just to see the traces underneath....Leave a comment:
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I'll continue with that relay, like I said I got excited too quickly and thought it's a different pin that conducts the N line. Relay seems good.
I've been measuring that diode out of circuit. Seen 152ohms both ways in circuit, so I was scraping the silicone around the relay off to have a better view on that diode, and it fell out with the silicone. Soldering pads healthy at least.
One of the rectifier's legs connects straight to the N ac line, trying to figure out which way the positive line goes there. Doesn't seem to conduct against L ac input. There's a NTC resistor...Last edited by mrsith; 06-16-2024, 03:58 PM.Leave a comment:
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There's 152 ohms there on the coil, same in the spot where diode was. There is a slight chance that I damaged it when pushing probes through the resin though. Ordered a replacement.
Gonna try measuring ac input on the rectifier again, it's difficult to stick probes there....Leave a comment:
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Well I've made a mistake, it's the other pin of that relay that's supplying the N ac line. And it's normally closed so that relay has to be switched on first. This means there's whole another route of power here.
Starting with DF06S rectifier, I'm getting dc output of circa 50 volts, raising steadily (~10v at a time) to circa 110v,then drops again to 50s and raises again. Is that normal?
Edit: also found a tiny T4 marked diode, just next to the relay (looks like it's connected to the relays coil), which is open, doesn't conduct anything any way....Last edited by mrsith; 06-16-2024, 01:56 PM.Leave a comment:
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Think I've found the problem. The N line goes through one of the main relay pins - confirmed via continuity against plug's N pin, relay's leg and the bridge rectifier leg. When I measure A voltage with CN7 L pin L and the relay plug (there's enough space to shove a probe between the plug and the relay when it's connected), I have stable 245v, but when I take the measurement using the relay leg on the other side of the board - which has continuity against that plug - I have same jumping voltage as measured on rectifier itself.
Gonna try reflowing that relay, if nothing changes I'll...Last edited by mrsith; 06-16-2024, 11:09 AM.Leave a comment:
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I've been checking voltage on mainboard connectors, used the CN1 live line for plus (it's the main ac input for the board) and RY7 negative for minus (seen it has continuity against N line of the mains plug), got stable 245v there. I think everything goes through filter before it reaches the boards?
Spade terminals (the ones I'm aware of and I can somehow access) look brand new.Leave a comment:
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It's str-W6053s.
I'm still trying to figure out why this all might've happened. With drain/circulation pumps, does polarity matter? Wouldn't think so as it's AC, but I remember the pump had pins marked L/N, I didn't remember which was which so just put orange wire to L, blue to N, guided by common sense. The machine acts the same even without pumps disconnected though.
Also why am I not getting stable AC on the bridge rectifier? It's the 1st component after the fuse, and both ac and dc measures taken from it seem wrong. Dc volts looked kinda similar to what I could read...Last edited by mrsith; 06-16-2024, 04:06 AM.Leave a comment:
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Cant edit for the fifth time lol. DC volts on bridge rectifier initially jumped above 20v, then strarted decreasing. Unplugged and plugged back in when dropped under 10v, it raised to just around 11.5v and started to drop after a few seconds.Last edited by mrsith; 06-15-2024, 03:45 PM.Leave a comment:
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I've seen another thread on this forum, where someone had faulty voltage regulator (KIAsomething I think). It worked fine only if heated up, wasn't completely dead, like a zombie ic lol. Maybe something similar happens here?
Otherwise, what might be telling it to shut down? I'd consider just buying a new board if I was sure it'll work well lol. Getting desperate with laundry 🙃
Edit: when I think about it, isn't that the standby voltage that's wrong here? I mean this is required to power the sub pcb, which includes power button to run main relay.
Edit2:...Last edited by mrsith; 06-15-2024, 02:52 PM.Leave a comment:
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I have noticed that without the CN7 plugged in (front panel + inverter communication pins) the led on the main board blinks repeatedly.
Checked DC voltages there, instead of 5v I have unstable reading (jumping from 0-2.5v-0-3.2v-0-4.2v-0 etc, doesn't reach 5v), on 12v pin I'm getting 10-11.5v, randomly fluctuating.Leave a comment:
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Fuse on the other board is fine. Your favourite kind of ic seems good too. I'm running out of ideas.
Just ckecked main relay with service psu, works fine.Last edited by mrsith; 06-15-2024, 02:10 AM.Leave a comment:
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I will check it in the morning. I don't understand why would it blow, if the washing machine was powering up with faulty pump and only blew a fuse when intended to use it, why would another fuse, on a different board, blow with new pump installed? Machine newer powered up or clicked any relay even once after I put it back together. It was continuously clicking the relay before replacing the pump along with the fuse.
I need some sleep, cannot think even remotely clear anymore lol.
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Replaced the pump, the fuse again, but I have a suty no power now. Nothing clicks, no leds go up, absolutely nothing. Checked main fuse again, confirmed with dmm that there's continuity between the mains plug and the main board connectors. Can't see any shorts etc either.Leave a comment:
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Took the pumps out, checked their resistances by inserting probes into the connector. One pump (I think the drain one) measures 190.5 ohms which I think is good, the other (circulation pump?), the one that the sock was in, has just 11.8 ohms.
So I guess I should replace the circulation pump. And the fuse, of course.Last edited by mrsith; 06-12-2024, 02:37 PM.Leave a comment:
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Yeah, acting exactly the same. I'm steering toward the drain pump because of that sock that was stuck inside, but need to take it out to check resistance to be sure....Leave a comment:
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