Re: Help reading a capacitor code
Awesome. Thanks.
I'll double check the neutrals.
We're going through a rehab in one apartment while we're living in another. The city had a problem with some old work and the hot, neutral and grounds for all the apartments were re-run.
Thanks again.
mysterfxit
Member
Last Activity: 04-06-2012, 11:56 PM
Joined: 04-11-2011
Location: Chicago
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Re: Help reading a capacitor code
Will this work?
[url]http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/MOV-20D241K/?qs=CQ3B1E%252bbPs1nqmdI%2fBwqSaKU%2fKhO2mqlIt4tcKmjoas%3d[/url]Re: Help reading a capacitor code<br...mjoas%3d[/url]Leave a comment:
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Re: Help reading a capacitor code
Thanks! Man. I was way off. I did leave a digit out and it's blue, not orange.
20D241K
There are no numbers after that I can read as that's the burnt bit.
This is a gas dryer so 120v.
We were having the mains serviced. Could this have happened from arcing during connection/disconnection of the meters or breakers?Leave a comment:
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Help reading a capacitor code
This is an orange disc (ceramic?) capacitor.
The markings say:
Sincera
20D41K
SA (in a circle) VDE (in a triangle) 112
I'm guessing one part is the voltage rating the other is the capacity, but I'm not sure if it's 20pF at .5pF tolerance at 41V or 41pF at 10% tolerance at 20V
Just for background, this is for the electronics board of Frigidaire clothes dryer. The component in question has two splits on flat sides that must have shot flames across the board and blew off the copper of the traces on the backside. The copper trace was... -
Re: Solution to remove leaked electrolyte from board?
Awesome! Thanks!Leave a comment:
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Solution to remove leaked electrolyte from board?
The two big caps on this subwoofer plate amplifier leaked. I'm going to replace them, but I was advised to clean the electrolyte off first.
Some of it's kind of flakey, but most of it is baked on. Rubbing alcohol seemed to have no effect on it. Is there any solution that can help remove it?
Thanks.... -
Re: Electronic Fluorescent Lamp Ballast
I got the new capacitor in the mail yesterday, soldered it in, and the lamp is working again!
That new part is huge compared to the old one. The leads were a lot fatter too and I was worried it wouldn't fit, but it did.
Thanks for all your help!...Leave a comment:
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Re: Charging Lead Acid Batteries
Just googling I found the problem explained as the battery with the least impedance discharges (and I assume charges) at a faster rate than the other one. So over time one battery gets cycled repeatedly while the other is hardly used.
That means you would get double the capacity, but you won't get double the life of using a single battery.
[url]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2526618&postcount=3[/url]Re: Charging Lead Acid Batteries<br ...as the batteryLeave a comment:
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Re: Electronic Fluorescent Lamp Ballast
Thanks. I haven't placed the order yet. I was holding off an order for a bunch of electrolytics for a subwoofer amp to combine with this one.
It turns out some of those are backordered as well so I'll have to find replacements, maybe I'll get the one you posted from digikey with the backordered stuff from the other project since I won't have to modify anything to fit.Leave a comment:
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Re: Electronic Fluorescent Lamp Ballast
Ah...higher voltage..thank you so much! I'll order it right away
Leave a comment:
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Re: Electronic Fluorescent Lamp Ballast
Yes. The same as shorting the meter leads.
There are only four on mouser that match the specs. So it appears my choice comes down to 17 week or 21 week lead time
Leave a comment:
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Re: Electronic Fluorescent Lamp Ballast
OK. I desoldered C10 and it still tested 0 Ohms.
Testing the electrolytic capacitors with the power on I got:
(2) 22uf 250V (big ones) - 160V
(2) 4.7uf 250V (medium ones) - These would measure 100V then slowly drop to 90V and stay there. A couple of times when I measured them they spiked higher.
(2) 4.7uf 50V (smallest ones) - I got nothing. 0VLeave a comment:
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Re: Electronic Fluorescent Lamp Ballast
I understand. Thanks.
As far as the voltage on the big caps. Does it just dissipate over time or do I have to bleed it off somehow?
I'm pretty comfortable working with electricity. I work on household wiring all the time. And unfortunately have been shocked a few times. Most recently when a ceiling fixture I was working had the hot shorting to the box.
Leave a comment:
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Re: Electronic Fluorescent Lamp Ballast
The bulb is currently not installed. Do you mean test the pins on the bulb? The first thing we tried was new bulb.
I'll try getting the voltage on the electrolytic caps, resistance on the bulb pins, and desoldering and testing C10 tomorrow night.
Do I test the voltage on the electrolytic caps with the power connected?
Which brings me to another question I was going to ask the forum. At what point to do I need to be REALLY careful working with capacitors?Leave a comment:
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Re: Electronic Fluorescent Lamp Ballast
Thanks.
Funny. I don't know if I can get to desoldering tomorrow night, so I was going to ask if you can explain to me a bit what's going on in this thing.
I know the diode symbols and I'm familiar with rectifiers from working on motorcycle charging systems. C's are capacitors, but why is Cr not numbered like the rest. What is L, B and M?Leave a comment:
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Re: Electronic Fluorescent Lamp Ballast
Yes, IIRC there appeared to be very little to no resistance. I'll try testing it unsoldered it this weekend.
The thing is completely dead. No flicker, glow or anything.
Thank you all very much for the help!Leave a comment:
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Re: Electronic Fluorescent Lamp Ballast
Here's a wider photo and a close up of C10....Leave a comment:
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Re: Electronic Fluorescent Lamp Ballast
Thanks. I'll check the numbers again and take another photo when I get home tonight.Leave a comment:
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Re: Electronic Fluorescent Lamp Ballast
Thank you. The only markings on C10 are 608J 1000V. What Farad value is that? And I'm guessing this is a polyester film capacitor?Last edited by mysterfxit; 06-27-2011, 08:19 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Electronic Fluorescent Lamp Ballast
The Transistors are labeled 13003 LZA.
I tested the transistors with multimeter set to ohms and they both give the same results. Current passes both ways between pins 1-3 and only in one direction between pins 1-2 and 2-3.Leave a comment:
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