Thank you to the guys at HEGE supporting Badcaps [ HEGE ] [ HEGE DEX Chart ]

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

User Profile

Collapse

Profile Sidebar

Collapse
Avatar
keithwbloom
Member
Last Activity: 12-10-2019, 03:46 PM
Joined: 03-02-2011
Location:
  •  
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
  • Source
Clear All
new posts

  • Re: KitchenAid/Whirlpool PCB issues



    So I have a hot air rework station and a squeeze bulb vac. I think I can clean these joins and resolder, probably will do most if not all of the connectors and large components.

    If you don't mind briefly explaining, what is wrong with these joins and what may have cause them to deteriorate over time? Should I take any further precautions if the fix is successful?

    Cheers,

    Keith...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: KitchenAid/Whirlpool PCB issues

    PCB full view overhead and then four quarters
    Photo 1:


    Photo 2:


    Photo 3:


    Photo 4:


    Photo 5:


    PCB reverse side full view overhead and then four quarters
    Photo 6:


    Photo 7:


    Photo 8:


    Photo 9:


    Photo 10:


    The service sticker from the authorized agent
    Photo 11:


    Photo 12:

    ...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: KitchenAid/Whirlpool PCB issues

    Thanks for everyone's feedback. I'll post additional photos and feedback shortly. I have a macro lens for my iPhone I will use for extreme closeups.
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • KitchenAid/Whirlpool PCB issues

    I have a drawer type under-counter refrigerator that has a wonky PCB. I would normally by now have just given up and ordered a new replacement, but apparently the manufacturer/supplier for this particular board was wiped out in the mainland Japan tsunami a few years ago. So the only option is to repair. There is a service that does repair/recondition for a fee, and I have already used them without success. Not even at all sure they did anything to my board at all, as all components look undisturbed.

    Here's the wonky part — it works fine when it is not installed in the unit vertically....
    See more | Go to post

  • Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

    Success! Replaced the RB80# resistors with a new trio of 5W 68Ohm ceramic monsters, and display fired right up. I would really like to know what fried the RB805 resistor in the first place, but who can tinker when there is a backlog of work to be done.

    Thank you moderators and members for creating such a fantastic resource for DIY electronics resuscitation.

    Keith
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

    I let my edit window expire so I am adding to it here. Some other observations/measurements before I replace the burnt RB805 and its siblings:[LIST=1][*]From post 276 in this thread, the voltage measured across CB876 is 5.15 - 5.29V, fluctuatiing relatively slowly[*]From post 41, voltage between pins 7 and 8 on ICB801S is 11-16V, fluctuating fairly quickly.[*]From post 45, votage between pins 8 and 23 is 168V, all other pairs are at or near 0V[/LIST]

    And I completely forgot to list my initial symptoms, start-up gets blue power on standby...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

    So I am prepared for next steps...

    There are currently no caps bulging on power supply board. I have ordered replacements for the three RB80# resistors, and hope to be able to test everything further once the power flows past the burned out RB805.

    There is a little scorching between the NT811S inrush limiter and the VX801S behind it. It could just be the inrush limiter has just baked the thermal glue that binds the two to a toasty brown.

    First question: do I need to re-glue the two inrush limiters to each...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by keithwbloom; 09-08-2011, 03:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Samsung Syncmaster 245BW

    Hi everyone. I am joining the party late but after trying to read this thread from the first post to the last, I changed direction about 6 pages in and decided to read from last to first.

    Inspired by rulleeeee's success, and knowing I too had a burnt RB805, I just ordered a trio of replacements and hope to have the same result. I'll post my outcome.

    This site is awesome. I have already enjoyed a successful rebuild of a 400W Samsung PS for an old PowerMac G4 based on input from this site. I am psyched to gear up and reclaim my...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Power Mac G4 MDD "Mirror-Door" won't power up

    Success!

    Problem: the main cap failed open and ultimately shorted out one of the MOSFETS and then fried a thermistor managing surge coming in on startup. I followed the steps in the other forum post and presto!

    Some pics and comments on the process:

    Scorching evident on the yellow coated heat shield from the fried thermistor:


    More significant scorching evidence once the heat shield and coils are removed:


    Same area, different angle....
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Power Mac G4 MDD "Mirror-Door" won't power up

    Everything on order. Thanks for the quick reply. Will post update when the parts are in!
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Power Mac G4 MDD "Mirror-Door" won't power up

    Answered many of my initial questions when I found this thread on badcaps.net - [url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8934[/url]

    I think I will now work through the steps outlined for others before me and hope I have only a couple more components to replace. Help on source for main cap would still be very welcome.

    Thanks,

    KeithRe: Power Mac G4 MDD "Mirror-Door" w...nd this thread
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Re: Power Mac G4 MDD "Mirror-Door" won't power up

    OK I am sufficiently inspired to try to tackle a fix on my Samsung 360W PS. I desoldered the main cap and it is testing open for continuity, but I only have a simple tester so I am not sure about other performance characteristics, and as a result, I was not sure if that was the end of it. So I then removed the copper winds on the fuse side of the board to find scorching between the (assumed) RF shield (yellow, plastic covered thingy) and a green thermistor (SCK 048). The thermistor is heavily scorched as well, and it appears...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:

No activity results to display
Show More
Working...
X