Re: Thermaltake ATX TR2-430 Turns on by itself, squeals, & has 0.9V on +5VSB
Easy enough--thank you! I have some equivalent FR-series for both from DigiKey in my cart. Should this also take care of the auto-turn-on issue, or is there anything else I should look at before ordering?...
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Re: Thermaltake ATX TR2-430 Turns on by itself, squeals, & has 0.9V on +5VSB
Thank you for the quick response--I can definitely heatshrink that load resistor. Please forgive my ignorance: the little 102 and 104 caps are the output caps? And you think that 330uF one is OK even with as close as it is to the resistor? I have the two little ones on hand; would have to order the big one though....
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Thermaltake ATX TR2-430 Turns on by itself, squeals, & has 0.9V on +5VSB
I have an older Thermaltake PSU that has a squealing noise whenever it's plugged in, even when totally disconnected from everything else. It automatically powers on the 5V and 12V rails with full voltage, but the +5VSB circuit only has 0.9V on it. I would assume this is my first place to start troubleshooting?
There is nothing obviously burnt/leaking that I can identify.
I've tried to take some decent photos of the 5VSB area. Components of notes:[LIST][*]U8 at the back is marked AZ431 [*]C38 is 102 [*]C47 is 104[*]C34 is a Teapo 330uF 16V (I think all the cylindrical...
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Re: Samsung 940BW won't turn on
Yup, getting ~165-170V according to my $3 multimeter and the MOV is intact...
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Re: New Members - please post your introductions here
I joined the forum years ago when issues with the old Antec SmartPower ATX PSUs were popping up everywhere, but I spend much more time working on cars than I do on computers anymore. When I recently had some issues after a lightening strike, I remembered about this placeThere's lots of useful info here... hopefully documenting my problems (and solutions
) will be helpful to someone else!
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Samsung 940BW won't turn on
A number of months back my Samsung 19" widescreen stopped working after a lightning strike. I haven't had the time to mess with it until now, but I'd really like to get it working again. I'm no expert at component level repair (nor surface mount soldering) and at this point I'd be happy just to narrow the problem down to the controller or the power board. Components on the power board are large enough that I could probably replace them myself, but if the controller is fried, then I'll just have to replace it.
Neither board has any visibly-damaged components, but they never...
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