Re: Toshiba 26AV52R power on problem
Those look like they say 200v @330Uf. If you are reading 329v, I would think the cap would blow. That's measured right on the pins of the big caps? The 161.4 at the upper cap seems right for most rectifiers output. The 329 at the lower one doesn't seem right.
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Re: 20N60C3 question
I would think so. The infineon site says these are up to C6 series and they don't make a 247 case in the new series. Digikey list your # as obsolete. bdent.com has your # at $10.35
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Re: Polaroid 21-860-AZO-IPOS150H Rev1.8 Issue
Are you in the states? I just found a HER304 in my parts. It's new. You can have it. Just send me your addy and I will send it.
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Re: Polaroid 21-860-AZO-IPOS150H Rev1.8 Issue
ΩΩ woo hoo Win 7 64 here also. It worked after I hit NumLock. Scenic , you got some nice ones. Maybe I'll have to look em look and write em down.
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Re: 20N60C3 question
[url]http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SPW20N60C2IN-ND[/url]
[url]http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SPP20N60CFDIN-ND[/url]
The data on these is fairly close at $4.44 each, but the in stock are to-220. The coolmos are metal oxide which I guess is why there aren't many subs.Re: 20N60C3 question<br /> <br /> ...CFDIN-ND[/url]Last edited by steve2; 04-30-2011, 07:52 PM.
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Re: 20N60C3 question
The w is for to-247 package. 20amp continuous, n channel, 600 volts. Digikey doesn't have this part #, but they have a few in the to-247 case (filter) and there are a few listed, but $10 is about the cheapest. Does it have to be a 247 case?...
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Re: Polaroid 21-860-AZO-IPOS150H Rev1.8 Issue
well, it worked on notepad, but when I tried it in message, it takes me back a page. Oh well, Ohms is a short word, so I will type it out. Thanks
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Re: Polaroid 21-860-AZO-IPOS150H Rev1.8 Issue
U+03A9 I don't get it. You type U+03A9 and then what?
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Re: Polaroid 21-860-AZO-IPOS150H Rev1.8 Issue
The digital meter probably has a diode checker on it. On the ohms scale you just read it on , it is shorted. Most digital meters have a diode symbol, you may have to hit range switch or function or something to go to diode (which should show on the display).
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Re: Polaroid 21-860-AZO-IPOS150H Rev1.8 Issue
You are right. The diode is shorted. That is with the diode out of circuit? If it's still in the board, you need to unsolder one end of it, pull it out of the board and check it. Your meter is different, but no diode will read 0 ohms, unless shorted.. What keyboard button is the OHMS/Omega symbol on? The replacement diode they used is an NTE576. [url]http://cgi.ebay.com/NTE-576-SI-General-Purpose-Rectifier-Fast-Switching-/160576875074?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256320aa42[/url] There are many places that carry them but this one...
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Re: lg du-42px12x vertical lines and sparkles
I live on Big River and it has been the backyard since 1960. It is 20 something feet below the bank and is normally under 5 feet deep. It came close to coming over the bank and just started going back down last night. In 93 we had 14 inches in the house. The river was 28 feet high. With all the levees and other construction in the floodplains the last few decades, storms like the ones last week cause this lil ol river to flood more than it did and way more often. More rain tonight and tomorrow, but it has dropped 5 feet or so today....
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Re: Polaroid 21-860-AZO-IPOS150H Rev1.8 Issue
The trace being lifted isn't hurting anything. As long as the pins are soldered to it good. The trace isn't broken. You can put a drop of super glue under it and hold it with a small screwdriver till it dries or leave it as it is. I guess that's D10 that is connected to the heatsink (pic 3). The heatsink looks like it got pretty hot. What's the number on the side of the diode?Last edited by steve2; 04-29-2011, 06:29 PM.
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Re: Ms-7093 ver:1.0
[url]http://www.ost.com.tw/products_ec_competitive.asp[/url] has rubycon mbz and panasonic fj as replacements for the RLX series. The are more, but I only checked the rubys and pannys.Re: Ms-7093 ver:1.0<br /> <br /> [...ys and pannys.Re: Ms-7093 ver:1.0
[url]http://www.ost.com.tw/products_ec_competitive.asp[/url] has rubycon mbz and panasonic fj as replacements for the RLX series.
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Re: lg du-42px12x vertical lines and sparkles
The one you took out is rated for 45A continous drain and the one you put in is for 13.5A continuous drain. I don't know the movie. I saw this model tv at the recycler yesterday. He said it would be $30. I told him I would get back to him. It was raining anyway. I wanted to come home and see what problems are common with this and saw about 4 threads on this tv. I will take a power cord with me and see what it is doing today, if I can get out of the flooded roads.Last edited by steve2; 04-28-2011, 07:26 AM.
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Re: Trouble whit RGB led and controller
You can try using a tail light or other bulb off a car to test. Maybe when you hit flash, it jumps back to 12 volts before dropping it to 2.3 volts max.
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Re: Onkyo receiver/amplifier
You are correct. I just looked again at the L110 and C176. At that section , they are seperated better and can see that 102j is for the cap value. I saw the 183 on the inductor in the pic, but I read the 102j at the lower location which is squeezed. Should have put my magnifier visor on. haha. I had it blown up to 400%. The old eyes aren't what they used to be. Good catch.
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Re: L42wd22 rca flat screen tv
[url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11240&highlight=L42wd22[/url] There is this thread on this model. Not sure what your's is doing, but this thread might help. If not, you can post what problem your tv has with that board and I'm sure someone on here can help. They will want measurements and pics of the board. I see you got the last board that site had. Hopefully you can repair the other for a spare. Glad to hear you are interested in repairing these. The better tools and more of them will come in time.Re: L42wd22 rca flat screen
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Re: Onkyo receiver/amplifier
I am the same with the eyes. I wear a magnifier visor when working small parts. I would try what you said and solder a piece of fine wire to the existing piece to make it long enough to reach the new post.
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