BTW I used some 62/36/2 .020" solder and it worked great. Flowed so nicely even with my never-cleaned tip. Silver electronics solder kicks ass.
I got it at [URL=http://jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=118875]Jameco[/URL]BTW I used some 62/36/2 .020" solder and it worked great. Flowed so nicely even with my never-cleaned tip. Silver electronics solder kicks ass.
I got it at [URL=http://jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalo
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Old shuttle recapped and running strong
Got my cap kit in a few days ago for my fv25 board. Sofar I ran it for 8hrs next to me at work. Only instability I found was when I was 5min into running some 3d demos to see what the onboard vid could do (of course, not much). That was most likely because of heat though:
I hadto replace some of the stock fans, so I undervolted them to save my ears. It got spicy enough in there that psu and cpu hsf were almost burning to the touch, and hdd and optical were way too hot for comfort. I was forced to put the cpu fan and rear 60mm fan(the only case fan) back to 12v.
As...
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Yeah that sounds like they flip them over to slap a heatsink on them instead of soldering the pad to the board and dumping all the heat into the ground plane. When they solder them to the board the pad on the fet is electricly the same as the center pin (I think gate pin), thats why you always see it clipped.
I imagine we will see alot more heatsinking of the fets as cpu wattage goes up (especially dual cores), but most will probably only do it halfassed... I mean that by just placing a heatsink ontop of them, and not flipping the fets over like msi is talking about....
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I was stuck on 98 se until 03. For some reason I would get nightmares seeing all the crap that ran in the background of xp. I saw "me" as more of a downgrade. I don't realy acknowledge its existance.
Is is wrong to run an a64 with 98?...jk
Last edited by Preowner; 03-12-2005, 03:59 PM.
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Ouch, thats 168 pins to desolder and resolder.
Like asked before.. this prevents the board from posting? Are the pins touching or is that because you have a ram stick in it? If you can do without 1 of the 4 sockets Id say try to remove the offending pins and leave it at that. The more you mess with the board the more prone it is to fail, and thats an expensive board to lose. Still ~$300 new, I think, for pretty old tech.
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So.. The question that has probably been asked all too many times:
What effect would be observed by using a standard non low esr cap?
If I can't get one, this psu is useless anyway. Its worth a try to me.
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I watched maxtor and WD go from most popular to pos. Atleast thats how it was in my area.
I always dispised maxtor because for some reason they went for years w/o labeling the drive size.
Seagate, I hear way back owning one was a fate worse than the owning several clicking deskstars.
Being disgusted with the current default cheap drive makers I looked elsewhere. I now own a Samsung 120Gb Sata drive. Only working on a few months, but I hear no motor whine, and head movement noise is only noticeable because the vibration is amplified by my desk. I got...
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Help Identify cap type
So I pulled out the psu on my sv24 project and tested it. It was making the high pitch noise indicating a problem. I pulled it apart and saw a slightly domed cap. I had to desolder it to see the sides but..
The markings read this
Side 1:
TNR
Fuhjyyu
470uf 16v
Side 2:
(M)P7
CE105 C
Vent
So now Im wondering if it is a low esr cap or what. Hopefully not so I can more easily get it localy.
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Defluxing?
I have done many small soldering projects myself, and have only heard a bit about flux removal. Ive never done it, and never had a problem.
Is it realy necessary for motherboards?
This kindof worries me, as nowhere I can think of localy would sell it. Even my local electronic part place doesn't have much in the way of soldering tools from what I can remember.
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