Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
Excellent Dave....
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Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
Dave
I suggest since you don't know why to tape the switch while you are working on the wiring, is to Unplug the Refer from the wall if you plan on doing this yourself.
Or do you know anyone familiar with basic wiring? I for one would like to see still around to see the new lights.
The Red/yellow wires on the Top Light Wide Plug are 120V , same as straight out of the wall socket....
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Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
Pic 3 Bench Testing - unfortunately you can't in the picture see much difference but there is. Full 120v is hard to look at and if you look at Pic 1 you can see all the individual LED's, at 120v you can't but in Series and Half the Voltage you can see the LED's but It's still pretty bight. About 6 hours now and they have not burned out so lower voltage may be OK. FYI - 120v Bulb gets to uncomfortable to hang onto for very long, the other two are just Warm.
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Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
OK, I am done for now though I might experiment later adding the lower Refer light. I choose to just go with a Top Refer and the Freezer light. I am running a test on the Bench with Two Lights in series off the Top Refer. Have about four hours run time so far, so that should be months of opening and closing the doors.
I taped the Door Switch closed. Keep in mind both doors are in series so open one turns on all. If you are not comfortable, unplug the Refer or at your own risk.
1. All four Connectors...
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Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
Bluto
Exactly... I had to go but that was the next plan to test. Now, on the bench I did test Top light direct so 120v. tapped in 2 more lights in series. These lights say Non-dimming but they worked without any flicker. Voltage across either of those two bulbs was 53.9v so a bit less but close to what Ohms law says. That was as far as I got...
Still pretty bright, no where as bright as the single light but to my surprise, still a Daylight White. The single light is too bright to look at until it...
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Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
Hey Dave
Trouble posting on my tablet, more this Sat. when I return. The Door Switch works just fine. I have only connected the top light so far. The Freezer light will be a must but may give up the lower refer light due to the wiring being in series rather thatn in parellel...
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Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
Ok, the lights in the above post #54 arrived today. I exchanged the 35W 3000K that I could live with but, this 40W 5000K is it. 5000K is described as Daylight and both the wife and I like these better.
I pulled for the first time the existing lower Refer and Freezer lights. Popped out the circuit boards. I was hoping the top pair of Red-Red/Yellow was going to the lower light and then a second pair to the Freezer, not going to happen. It is wired in series as we thought so the Red/Yellow goes to the Freezer, then...
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Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
Ok, after a lot of procrastinating I pulled the trigger on Amazon. 6 pcs for $ 14.99 delv'd this Tuesday. Could got em cheaper on Ebay but delivery was Mid Oct to Nov or bad reviews or a multiple of reasons and I have been taking too long so... We shall see how it goes. Plan is to Wire in Parallel for even brightness. Stepped up a bit to 40W and 5000K. Like I said, the 35W 3000K I can live with, but want to go a bit more Daylight White.
[url]https://www.amazon.com/Equivalent-Daylight-Degree-Non-dimmable-Lingting/...
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Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
But Sam, that module runs on DC, you need a separate Driver for it plus it says Blinding White that you can't even look at, well at some angle but that top light is right in your face when you open the door. But sure, advise how it works out.
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Re: Cap differs from Schematic Carvin AG 100
I will assume you see the + signs on the Schematic and none for C9 or C10. Is that why you say Not Elcectrolutic? I even looked at the next Rev and no + signs there either. I then looked on the board itself and both C9 & C10 have a + with the circle printed.
I also just put 2and 2 together and realized it's C10 with the low value. should be 10uF and it's 5464nF ESR 2.7 ohm V-loss 2.9v. It's also right in front of the Power Transistor, wonder if that is why it went boom.
FYI - symptoms of the sudden...
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Re: Cap differs from Schematic Carvin AG 100
RJ
Thanks for taking a look. I was going to upload the Schematic or pics if anyone wanted to look. Now, I messed up and for some reason the "edit" button is now no where to be seen so I can't fix my mistake,,,, sorry for leading you astray.
C10 says 10 and is a 10uf 63V Electrolytic with a printed Circle, C9 also says 10 but that is where the 104K Film is and there is a printed Circle
Also, if you look at C6 = .1 that is a decimal, and that is the same as 104K , right? That is what is there,...
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Cap differs from Schematic Carvin AG 100
Hello
I have a Carvin AG100 Acoustic Guitar amp bought new 1997 ish. so yeah around 22 yrs old now. It's been a great Amp but best I can tell so far is the Power Transistor blew and I have a new replacement. I am considering replacing all the Caps just on the Power Board for now. The Caps are testing good except one is half it's rated value, so that one for sure. No leakers, all look good.
But here's question #1 for now. I have one Cap that does NOT match what is on the schematic, Should I replace it with what is actually there or follow the Schematic? It's been...Last edited by Log_on_Bob; 09-13-2019, 12:56 PM.
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Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
Dave
Let's see, the devil is in the details. I didn't try that style, I used what is called a Butt Connector which is still a Solderless Connector. If you have a Harbor Freight near the assortment pack is really cheap.
Things to think about,,, I only connected the top light so far and MY plan is to redo the connector anyway but I don't have the next two bulbs yet.
The connectors are color coded for wire size range, the proper color for the Refer wire would be the Red connector 16-22...
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Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
Hi Dave
See post #44 above. Cut off the circuit board and crimped on a G9 bulb. As the post says, this was my test light, I have only connected the top Refer side light so far and I am shopping for the other two. While I can live with this bulb just fine I am leaning towards a bit whiter. This one is 3000K and I am looking for about 5000K. So far they don't seem to be available as 35W, so most likely go to 40W ( that is Equivalent Watts, they are actually 3.5W )
[url]https://www.homedepot.com/p/Feit-Ele...HDRP/309790442[/url]...
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Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
Ok boys and girls, here is leg one of my experiment and thanks for the suggestions and help and special shootout to redwire for the G9 suggestion, I wouldn't have thought of that one. Home Depot and bought this, I wanted instant gratification so yeah payed more but I only got one for testing. Link below.
Package says 35 watts 350 lumens 3000K so it's on the "Warm" side white. 3.5 watts at 3hrs a day annual cost to run is .42 US Cents, :-)
Ohms law says, 3.5 watts/ 118 v = .029 amp Bench...
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Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
Tks redwire... hmmm Calgary here, well now in California. That service sheet is way easier to follow and read than mine. Mine is smaller with many more lines. Now you tell me to connect the LED first. :-)
What I am liking at the moment is your suggestion about the COB's and the G9 from post 31. The COB's from what I can tell require a heatsink , at least the ones the Grow Light guys are using. So , I am liking the G9 LED light as the easiest solution and give up the Fade.
Interested in your comment...
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Re: Whirlpool Refrigerator LED lights flickering
Well, I most likely blew up my board or something on it. I tried bench testing again, applied 115v to J1 and I want to measure the voltage going out on J2. I was getting 3.6 v DC. note on the schematic it says AC INPUT for J1 and the other two modules say LED DC module,, Now my meter would hold pretty steady at 3.6 DV for maybe 3-4 seconds, jump to 5.x quickly then back down to 3.6 holding for 3-4 seconds. No clue why it was not steady but if I were to guess since we AC going in and 3 v DC there's a bridge rectifier onboard...
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