Re: Replacing ATX connector - tips tricks experience or help?
Nevermind that last post. Got the board to post with defective, unregistered ram and a generic 300w.. wow. Anyway, the vregs which are outlined in red in the previous picture output vcore. So I'll feed the 5v ones some nice clean power direct from the psu
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Re: Replacing ATX connector - tips tricks experience or help?
Ok, I did just that. Cleaned up and installed a new connector *very* careful of the exposed copper bits. I dont have a heatsink or memory to test with right now, but the fans spin now! I checked over the vregs with a mulitmeter, and I've got a question.. Everything looks normal but 4 vregs (2 per cpu). Here, I'll use a picture to demonstrate. The vregs circled in green measure 5.12v, which is what I would expect. The red circled vregs measure 0.012v.. which is a little odd. Maybe its because I dont have cpus in the board?...
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Re: Replacing ATX connector - tips tricks experience or help?
I guess my picture isnt good enough.. See the light green area of the PCB around the atx connector? Well, in some places, very very close to the pins, the green has been burned through to copper which is just underneath it. My guess would be I dont want to connect the pins to the copper, which will happen if I solder there without somehow isolating the copper..
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Re: Replacing ATX connector - tips tricks experience or help?
Hey, not my pics :P Its not like he was powering the board on or anything on the carpet. Anyway.. so I finally received the board, only to discover that *SOMEBODY* had already taken a crack at replacing the ATX connector. The whole area is a mess.. I got a pretty decent close up pic of it, and blah. So I'm asking for your help.
Some of the pins are fine, but in others I guess whoever did it used too low wattage a iron or something, and burnt right through the thin green layer around the pins, down to what...
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Replacing ATX connector - tips tricks experience or help?
Hey guys, I just picked up a tyan tiger MP really cheap with a fried ATX connector. Nothing else wrong with the board. What do you think about replacing it? Can I just take a solder sucker and my iron and pull that thing out of there and plug a salvaged one off another board in? Any tips for removing it from the other board without wrecking it? Even look feasable? Here's a couple pics:
[url]http://www.shawnmann.com/images/forums/P5110003.JPG[/url]
[url]http://www.shawnmann.com/images/forums/P5110004.JPG[/url]https://Hey guys, I just picked up a...p with a fried
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These are MSI 694D Pro v1.0s with promise raid. Pretty nice boards. I got one recapped last night with rubycons from some dead abits I have and its running really nicely so far with a couple celeron 500s in it. I should have better CPUs in a week or two. I dont really have anywhere to get good caps around here other than dead/old hardware, and shipping from the USA is really expensive. The old boards are totally generic. I pulled them out of customers machines I've upgraded. emachines/dell/etc.
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I just got 4 of these boards with vented and bulging caps this afternoon. I've already recapped two of them. Now its time to test! I would post pics but my camera is messed up :\ Congrats on a succesful recap
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Replacing caps with much higher voltage ones?
Hey guys, I'm wondering how good a idea it would be to replace 6.3v 2700uf caps with 16v 2200uf ones. I just got 4 dual p3 boards which have 6 bad caps a piece, and I have a stack of very old intel boards (440LX and EX) which have lots of 16v 2200uf caps on them. I'm sure 10v caps would work, but would 16v be too much? Thanks,
James
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Its a i815. All I have is dividers upto 133mhz fsb. I ran upto 190 fsb on my KR7A with the same dividers and never had a problem with quantum or seagate hard drives. How high did the dividers on the DVD266u-RN go? Thats a dual s370 board based on a via chipset, right?
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Is that the best option while remaining cheap? What about samsung? Also, how did you keep your hard drives uncorrupted at nearly 50mhz pci? A 66mhz raid card?
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Oh ok, yeah.. I'm blind. And its late >_>
Hmm I've heard that Crucial pc133 will do 150+, think theres a good shot at that? Its alot cheaper than getting real pc150 or pc166 stuff. Also, what about running a tualatin? I know the board doesnt support them, but the s370 tualatin 'adapters' are so cheap.. Good idea?
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Whoa.. bunch of posts just dissapeared in this thread.. Or is it just me? :o
//edit nevermind.. just moved from forums. Thought I'd broken the rules and gotten my thread deleted for a second thereLast edited by RuKK; 03-01-2005, 12:09 AM.
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Did you heatsink it? Probably more expensive than DDR but I'm almost tempted to go looking
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Yeah, nothing quite like trying to make 50mhz pci stable hmm? Damn I loved my Abit KR7A-Raid.. 1ghz AXIA tbird and a 256mb stick of crucial pc2100.. all the vmods.. *sniff* With a peltier I bet I could get this 667 p3 stable at 900 or so.. I've got upto 1.9v in the bios to play with.. What ram do you suggest for those kinds of speeds?
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Hehe it'll be crazy trying to get NIC/hdds to run at 45mhz PCI, and a video card to run at 90mhz agp
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Oh before I forget, I've got a tip for you guys. I didnt have any flux, so to get the solder to flow onto the capacitor's leads, I made a paste out of baking soda and water and applied a tiny bit to the leads where I wanted the solder, then wiped most of it off with a cloth. Not quite as easy as real flux, but in a pinch it'll do.
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Thank you! Yeah I know, but they were free and I'm broke If they give me issues I'll replace them with rubycons or panasonics.
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