Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP
Thanks, Toasty.
You always give reliable answers. I really appreciate it!
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Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP
Does anyone know what U704 is? I'd like to be able to find a data sheet on that component. I can see where a part number was on the chip, but the surface looks bubbled and there's no way I can read it.
If someone could give me a part number, I would greatly appreciate it.
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Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP
I was looking at the Blackjack BK-5000. It's pretty cheap. I was going to buy one for other projects.
How do you like the Blackjack? I could have used the hot air gun to remove a card slot from a Nintendo DS board a while back.
I'll try to find that thread. Thanks for all the info.
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Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP
I haven't had a chance to desolder them. My friend has some caps of various values, but I'm not sure which ones to use. The best I can do is desolder C708 and C712 as Toast says, but that's still no guarantee that they are the same caps as C709 and C710 that I need.
And it's doubtful that I can test them without desoldering them.
By chance, has anyone used an "Aoyue" brand rework station? I'm looking to buy one. I've also looked at "Blackjack Solderwerks" brand on circuitspecialist.com. I can't...
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Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP
Can someone tell me what components "C709" and "C710" are? I have no idea how they got damaged unless they got knocked off moving the board around after I took it apart, but they're somehow gone. I'm sure they're surface mount capacitors, but I'm not sure which ones to get to repair them.
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Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP
godonr -- I've been gone for a week and my parts are just arriving. I got Q301 and the resistors showed up. Still waiting for the caps from Arrow. I'll keep you posted.
toast -- Thanks for the pinouts. That will help us test the supply once we get it "hopefully" fixed.
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Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP
I'll add that Digikey shipped out my resistors about an hour after I ordered them. I wish they would have had the MOSFET in stock. I would have ordered those from Arrow as well, but they didn't stock the fusible ones.
Should the fuse be slow blow, timed, or fast blow?Last edited by vsp900; 11-30-2010, 09:00 PM.
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Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP
godon4 - We were able to read the short with the MOSFET attached. Re-checking after the MOSFET was removed, we were able to verify the short across all three pins.
After removing the MOSFET, we replaced the fuse just for giggles and powered up the supply. Before removal, the fuse simply blew. After removal, the fuse didn't blow and some of the pinouts tested correctly. I'm curious to see if the replacement parts fix the problem. With my luck, the TOP will blow next.
Of course, I have a lot more work to do on the...
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Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP
I actually just ordered several of them from Arrow. I went ahead and ordered the capacitors and a few fuses. Does anyone know which type of fuse I should use? I got some slow blow and some fast blow fuses from them. Q301 was really hard to locate.
I couldn't figure out if the resistors at Arrow were fusible, so I ordered the ones Toast recommended from Digikey.Last edited by vsp900; 11-30-2010, 03:33 PM.
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Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP
Oops. I thought they were a stock item at Digikey. I see now that they have zero on hand. Their website still lets you go through the ordering process. I had already added it to my cart but I see not there are none available. Who knows. I may get lucky and they will have it.
Any suggestions on a replacement?
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Re: LiteOn PA-6601-1A (600w) blows its TOP
I'm in the process of fixing my Liteon PA-6601-1A as well. On my power supply, Q301 was shorted, which caused R302 to burn and F1 to blow. I also found that C301 and C302 were both burned. I was able to find replacements for Q301, C301, and C302 at Digikey, but I'm not quite sure what to replace R302 with. It is marked 100 ohm - 2WJ - 534. I located some 2 Watt 100 ohm resistors with +-5% tolerance. I think the "J" marking reflects 5% tolerance. It appears to be a wire wound resistor, but I'm not certain. Does anyone know if this...
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