Thanks. You're right, another great reason to learn electronics repair.
In my case, my old PC has an i5 overclocked to 4GHz and two GTX-285's in SLI so the power draw has got to be pretty insane. The whole machine needs replacing but at least now I know the power supply can be re-used in a new build; would never do SLI again and new GPUs are much more power efficient.
Yea but fireworks are so pretty. Seriously though, what "experiments" did you...
So this weekend, I managed to set aside some time to get the new capacitors soldered in and the PSU tested. I'm pretty much a soldering but I've been watching a ton of YouTube videos over the past week. One through-hole gave me a fair bit of trouble (it was a corroded from a leaky cap). Used flux but even with that, the solder joint isn't great. Seems to hold fine nonetheless.
For testing, I really gave it a workout. Used a bunch of benchmarks, games, encoding etc. By far the biggest stress was the OCCT PSU test. Man, that...
I finally got around to placing the order with Digi-Key.
Essentially I'll be replacing all the output caps but decided not to touch the large input caps since they appear fine, aren't cheap and look to be a bitch to de-solder. Also, from what I read, they rarely go bad.
Once I finally get the new caps installed and the PSU sufficiently tested, I report back.
Thanks again momaka; learnin' lots. From the bit of prior searching I did, I had an inkling that ESR being too low could be a possibility but the PDFs that hinted at that were way over my head and I had no idea that impedance was a good metric to use.
As for ripple current, nothing I found really explained that the value in the spec sheet is the maximum spec'd for the cap so you cleared that up. Makes sense now.
So based on my newly minted knowledge, I spent way too much time (actually I kinda enjoy perusing specs)...
In my last post, I indicated that ESR and ripple have me stumped but I guess you can add impedance to that list as well. So for example, if I want to replace a Teapo SC cap with the following specs:
Took a look today in better lighting and the label 5VS+ is a small red wire grouped together with a bunch of other red wires. Parting those a bit, I was able to see another label: +5V which of course go to the molex, SATA and 24 pin motherboard header. Mystery solved, all 5V related. I'm a learnin'
5VSB is a small purple wire and goes exclusively to the 24 pin header connector. Googling that, it's 5V standby.
Thanks, so I guess we've determined where that pesky 16V cap belongs....
I'm fairly new at all this but I did a continuity check between the positive hole of each capacitor location to the 12V rail and got no response. Is that what I was supposed to do?
Did a continuity check to GND from the positive legs for all the locations and again, got nothing.
Pain in the ass that I misplaced the sheet of paper that I had recorded the locations but I was able to figure out 4 of the 6 caps by matching up the white silicone adhesive still attached to the sides of...
Thanks Per Hansson, I tested the resistance between the cap locations to the 12V rails and I'm not seeing low ohm readings; all 5 measure roughly the same (4 measured 105 Ohms and one was 110 Ohms). To compare, I measured from one of the adjacent 25V caps and it measured 0.11 Ohms. Maybe I just don't know what I'm looking for.
Looking to re-cap the above flaky PSU. I pulled the caps that were visibly bulged and disgustingly, they're Teapos (SC series). The damaged ones seem to be 3300uf/10V . Looking around at Digikey, I see that Panasonic have some 3300uf ones but they're all 12.5mm in diameter; the Teapos were 10mm. Doubt I'll have the room to get anything bigger in there. The largest 10mm caps that Panasonic has are 2700uf (FS Series).
Another fly in the ointment, I pulled 5 caps (all from the same location) that appeared physically identical without realizing one was a 2200uf/16V. Now I'm not sure...
Thanks guys, I think I'll go ahead and try and re-cap it.
The PSU certainly delivered the juice when I last had it in service; that PC was running an i5-750 oc'd to 4.0Ghz and two oc'd GTX285's in SLI. At the end, the machine would run fine for days with low to moderate loads but reboot itself whenever I started an intensive game or ran a benchmark.
I pulled a few of the caps that were visibly bulged and easy to access; they're Teapo SC series. The damaged ones...
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