Re: Anybody here still uses Win 7?
There's a HDD around here somewhere with a Win7 install on it that I used for gaming. Although it hasn't been used in many years so it may not even work anymore. It needs to be booted up one last time to grab some data files, but will likely get scrapped after that.
Win7 was the last user oriented Windows that actually seemed OK to me. It's what I migrated to after WinXP support ended, but by that time, I wasn't using Windows much other than at work, and they mainly had Win7 there for end users. It's understandable why some people...
zaphar
:-D
Last Activity: 04-08-2023, 08:20 PM
Joined: 10-27-2010
Location: N/A
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Last edited by zaphar; 02-06-2022, 01:52 AM. -
Re: Removing "Yellowing" From Beige Case Plastics
Hello, it has been many years later. If you would not mind me asking, have these experienced any yellowing since you brightened them?...Leave a comment:
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Re: HP Proliant ML110 G5 - CAUTION RISK OF FIRE (epic fail!)
I had one of these Molex to SATA connectors self-immolate and catch the plastic face plate on fire. A good thing I was nearby, able to putout the flames, and unplug it. The odd thing, compared to other reports, this adapter was not plugged into a SATA port. I had setup the 3.5" bay with an adapter for a 2.5" SSD, but had not install one, so the cable was just hanging out in there. It had been in this configuration for about 3 years.
I had other adapters like these in some other computers, but have...Leave a comment:
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Re: Actiontec GT701 modem
Hi all, this is an old thread but I had this device stop working due to bad caps. Recently had a bad lightning storm in the area and the power went out for a few hours. When the power returned, the DSL modem showed the power LED as red so I though the phone lines where out. Long story short, called the DSL provider a couple days later to see if everything on their side was OK, it was, and did a few checks on the modem. They said it needed to be replaced. Figured I'd crack it open and take a quick look and see if anything looked out of the ordinary.
...Leave a comment:
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Re: 3 Dell 2208WFPF with bad lamp assemblies
I have one of these monitors and it also had crispy wire connections as shown in your pictures. Out of curiosity, what causes that white wire to cook at that particular end of the CCFL? The caps in the inverter section of the power board looked OK (superficially), but I ended up recapping the board before disassembling the LCD module, just to see if that was the problem (crappy Leion and Su'scon caps anyway).Leave a comment:
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Re: vp2130b cap help
Hmm, oh well, I guess it was a good project while it lasted. On closer inspection it looks like the traces where ripped off so it's a goner. I guess I'll cannibalize it for parts.Leave a comment:
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Re: vp2130b cap help
Unfortunately, my problems are not over. In my original attempt at fixing this monitor, I used some out of spec caps and recently replaced them with the right ones. At this point, the monitor now has a working backlight system, but only if I unplug the LCD module to main board connection.
If the LCD module is plugged in, I get the standard 2 seconds to black issue (working LCD module via flashlight test; from cold start, desktop may not even show on LCD, but will after a few power on/off cycles)
If the LCD module is unplugged, the monitor...Leave a comment:
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Re: This is Why You NEVER Ignore Bad Capacitors!
Did they happen to be Sacon caps? My old Soyo motherboard only uses Sacon caps and it never functioned properly out of the box (apg x8 mode). I personally will never buy anything made by them again....Leave a comment:
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Re: vp2130b cap help
I'd also like to thank you for the explanation. It's important to understand how things work in addition to getting things to work.Leave a comment:
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Re: vp2130b cap help
Alright, it looks like the CCFLs have issues. After closer inspection and the tug test you mentioned, the wires do appear to be crispy and one wire did brake free. The tubes look to be in good shape (what I checked before). So I guess I'll replace some of the wire and resolder. Thanks again for your help....Leave a comment:
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Re: vp2130b cap help
I spoke to soon, the monitor is back to the way it was when I first aquired it, 2 seconds to black with glimps of desktop. The hissing sound is definitely originating from the transformers on the inverter. I'll take it apart again and inspect the CCFTs more closely at the ends. Is there any explenation as to why the hissing only occures if both CCFTs are plugged into the inverter but not when only one is?Leave a comment:
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Re: vp2130b cap help
Well, I don't know how it did it, but after taking the LCD apart, reassembling it, and turning it on and off tens of times, the monitor seems to be functioning properly. The long hissing sound at start up isn't made and I'm actually using the monitor right now to type this message. If I have any problems I'll check back in. Thank you for your help and useful information, this thread will be a valuable resource for anyone with one of these monitors as they're all doomed to get the plague sooner or later.Leave a comment:
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Re: vp2130b cap help
Alright, I just disassembled everything and the CCFLs look to be good. I have removed them from the assembly and plugged them back into the inverter. When turning on the monitor, they light up as expected for one second, then turn off. The hissing sound seems to be originating from the transformers on the inverter. I have also observed that if I keep turning the monitor on and off (using front power button), the period of hissing decreases and the lights stay on longer before turning off. It eventually gets to the point where little to no hiss is produced and...Leave a comment:
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Re: vp2130b cap help
I'm going to take a look at the CCFLs, however, it seems odd that if I unplug one of the CCFLs the other one doesn't hiss, and vise versa. The hissing only happens when both are plugged in.
If that checks out OK, I'm going to check the power supply voltage after I figure out a safe way to do it....Leave a comment:
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Re: vp2130b cap help
(1) The backlight looks to turn on for about one second (makes hissing sound), but there is no image. Doing the flashlight test after this shows the LCD to be working.
Before replacing the bad caps, the desktop image did show briefly before backlight turned off.
There are two sets of connectors on the inverter board that if unplugged, eliminate the hissing sound on start up. If just one of the pairs (either one) is plugged in, there's no hissing and backlight still turns on then off.
(2) F1 reads 0.2...Leave a comment:
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Re: vp2130b cap help
Sorry about that (I was copy and pasting). The order of the diodes measured are: D16, D15, D6, and D9....Leave a comment:
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Re: vp2130b cap help
OK, I bought a multimeter and have checked a few things.
- F1 seems to be alright.
- I checked the diodes in the areas of interest and they're behaving as expected.
- All other diodes on the inverter were checked and it seems that D15 and D16 behave differently (they are both high speed double diodes A7W: ) Using diode testing mode I measured the following values:
For D16:
Anode +probe, CommonConnection 0.626V, Cathode 0.354V
Anode -probe, CommonConnection 0.977V, Cathode 0.354V
CommonConnection +probe, Cathode...Leave a comment:
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Re: vp2130b cap help
Yes, there's F1 with a "TP" label on it, so I'm certain that's a fuse. It bridges the trace where the inverter board connects to the logic board via pins 1, 2, and 3 (labeled as VIN on the top side). I don't have a multimeter yet but I'm going to buy one soon so I can test F1. If F1 is OK, there are a few areas of possible interest. I'm attaching a picture of the bottom of the inverter board and close up shots of the areas of interest, maybe the diodes are over heating or something?...Leave a comment:
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Re: vp2130b cap help
(1) I am having this same issue (black screen on power up then green light stays on) and have gone through and replaced the three caps on the inverter and the four (within red circles in lucky's picture). All where visually identified as bad, except for one on the logic board (replaced anyway).
I was given the monitor as it wouldn't work. When I got it, pushing the front power button would: turn on the LED to an amber color, then turn on the LCD and back light with the LED switching to green, display desktop while making hissing sound from inverter...Leave a comment:
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