To close the loop here - I did try everything on the two boards that I had (factory reset, etc.).
Got a new power supply from ebay - still no signal on HDMI with two of the boards.
After getting a new board from Aliexpress (together with the new PSU, didn't bother to check the old one) - HDMI works as expected
Not sure I understand the first question.
The tv reads “No Signal” - there is no sound and no black screen. It doesn’t recognize that there is a device connected.
Both cables and devices are version 2.0.
Thanks for the advice!
The HDMI cable is not damaged, its not one cable or one source - all the devices/cables were tested on other TVs and are working properly.
with the old board connected, I disconnected the backlight cable from the psu, still no signal and "fail count" now measures around 2.3v.
I connected the new board, did a factory reset, setup wifi, and did a software update - same result - all hdmi ports no signal.
Connected the old board back. All A13V pins measure around 12.75v while tv was on and connected to hdmi source. The “fault count” pin measures about 3.3v, not sure what that means.
The replacement board was brand new from the local samsung importer, I refuse to believe it was faulty but who knows
Ok plot twist - I replaced the board - same issue - no signal on hdmis, while apps working properly.
I checked the supply voltage from the power supply to the board, while the board was disconnected - got ~12v on all of them.
Could the power supply be affecting the hdmi ports? Ordered one but will take some time to arrive....
Samsung UE65MU7003U / BN41-02568B - HDMI No Signal
Following a power surge, the HDMI ports on a UE65MU7003U no longer work, no matter the port or the source - it shows No Signal.
The other functions work well (eg Netflix app, etc.), its just the HDMI ports.
Is the BN41-02568B board salvageable? Any leads before I open the heatsink cover? board replacement?...
I sampled the CK* against ground they seem ok but will double check tomorrow.
I am concerned about VGH that measured ~80M while on the other board it measures 5K.
Assuming that's the culprit do I mask only VGH?
Found the mapping on this post [URL]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubleshooting-hardware-devices-and-electronics-theory/troubleshooting-tvs-and-video-sources/95832-samsung-un50tu8000f-rebooting-backlight-ok-no-12v-to-panel-boards?p=1786858#post1786858[/URL]
[ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\tfetch?id=2116618.jpg Views:\t0...
No diode packs, attached full board.
I tried many variations, among this: [url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubleshooting-hardware-devices-and-electronics-theory/troubleshooting-tvs-and-video-sources/107861-samsung-qe50q67t-bootloop-problem?p=1840595#post1840595[/url]https://No diode packs, attached ful...t1840595[/url]...
I have a QE50Q60AA that won't stay on - when turning it on, it makes the sound and reboots right after (sound is ok).
Disconnecting the LVDS cable stops the restart loop but no image.
I tried the tape method mentioned in other threads in many variations, but I couldn't get it to properly work (either reboot loop, or no image).
Tested the caps on the left buffer board, no beeps.
Leave a comment: