Re: Samsung 40" LED UA40D5500RMXXY AC03 cyclic reboot loop
Jusf wanted to stop back in and say thank you
I bit the bullet and forked out AUD$170 for a new mainboard and it's now been running fine for the last week.
Is it too politically incorrect for me to admit that I giggled a little when I realized that this won't be the first time I've ditched GF's once they start to bulge? :P
Re: Samsung 40" LED UA40D5500RMXXY AC03 cyclic reboot loop
I think I'm going to bite the bullet and buy a new mainboard for it...
I can get one exactly the same as the original for AUD$180, but I want to test the power supply to try and reduce the possibility of frying a relatively expensive fix.
Can someone link me to a noob's guide to testing an LED TV PS board please?
Is there anything in particular that I should be looking out for?
I have a UNI-T UT70D multimeter for testing, nothing fancy.
I haven't read anything good about them! Not too many complaints about the KM series though, so I might just leave them in and get a better quality PSU next time
Thank you for taking the time to reply, I'll order a couple of FR caps to replace the two GF's on the board.
The rest of the caps on it are SAMXON KM(M)'s, so I'm not overly impressed with what I paid for a Cooler Master product, even if it was a few years ago! At least there doesn't seem to be anything visually wrong with the rest of them...
esr is about the same with the FR's, but ripple rating is 3630 according to their datasheet. Should I be trying to stick closer to the GF figures or will a much higher ripple be ok?
Just pulled apart a failing Cooler Master 650W pc power supply and found a bulging SAMXON GF cap... I checked the datasheet for the GF series and it doesn't seem to list anything for a 4700uF 10V product.
Just wondering if anyone out there might have info on it so I can replace it with something suitable, or perhaps suggest an alternative?
Re: Samsung 40" LED UA40D5500RMXXY AC03 cyclic reboot loop
Quick update:
So I hit the heatsink with my Hakko clone hot air gun and it popped off. It was held on by some white adhesive tape that I imagine is thermally conductive.
I set the air to 240 celsius and heated it up for a minute, then let it cool off before reconnecting it in the TV.
The problem is still there so I'm going to try again at maybe 260 degrees in a couple of days, and heat it up for maybe 2 minutes next time...
Re: Samsung 40" LED UA40D5500RMXXY AC03 cyclic reboot loop
Finally home from work for a few hours and I got a chance to take some more photos.
The main chip seems to have a ceramic looking heatsink attached to it somehow... maybe some sort of thermal glue? Do I need to remove this to reflow the connections to the chip, or should I just heat it up as well?...
Re: Samsung 40" LED UA40D5500RMXXY AC03 cyclic reboot loop
I've read online that quite a few of the Samsung LED TV's have had corrupted firmware update issues.
Excuse my ignorance, but how would freezing the mainboard help?
I'm assuming you mean the mainboard as there's no way a 40" TV will fit in my freezer...
Re: Samsung 40" LED UA40D5500RMXXY AC03 cyclic reboot loop
Thank you for the replies. I can't find the UA40D5500RMXXY on the shopjimmy website, and am assuming that it might just be an Australian model(?). If I were to replace the mainboard with an overseas alternative, would it cause issues due to an incompatibility somewhere?
Also, I have found a mainboard for sale that comes from a SAMSUNG UE40D5520RK/UA40D5500RM, part number BN41-01660B BN9405069D
What are the chances of this working in my unit as it's a UA40D5500RMXXY?
The T-CON board numbers are the...
Re: Samsung 40" LED UA40D5500RMXXY AC03 cyclic reboot loop
Looks like I'm going to go shopping for a replacement main board...
Can you point me in the direction of a list of compatible main boards for this model?
The current board has the following on it:
BN94-05012Y PTV4(PM) which I think is the part number, but I'm not 100% sure
Samsung 40" LED UA40D5500RMXXY AC03 cyclic reboot loop
I have a Samsung LED TV that cost quite a bit when it was new. Now that it is out of warranty, it's stopped working on me O_o
When I connect a power cord, it displays the Samsung Smart TV splash screen, shows HDMI 2 at the top left corner, then shuts itself off. The red power LED flashes 3 times and it then turns itself back on and repeats the process.
I have tried the following:
* pressing mute, 1, 8, 2, power on the remote.
* pressing mute, 2, 5, 8, exit on the remote.
* removed the stand and the back off the TV, then:
* disconnected all cables...
Thanks for that. I'll drop in to the local branch after the weekend. The Jaycar site doesn't specify series or brand, just basic specs and a generic picture that's too blurry to see:
Finished work at 5am. Just got home. I checked both RS and Element14 for Nichicon PW series caps in the right ratings. Went through the shopping cart, element14 (formerly Farnell) only allows a minimum of 5 or 10 of each. I only need 1 x 400V 10uF, 1 x 50V 22uF and 3 x 100uF caps.
Both shopping carts came to just under $20 including freight!
I'd hate to have to go back to Jaycar for Samxon and Capxon's, but I can get all 5 there for $4.50 :/ Grrr
Thanks for that! Last time I stocked up was a few years back. I bought from The Cap King and this main site. Completely forgot about those two that you mentioned! If they have Aussie stock I'll order some in for that and a couple of other jobs that have been lying around for too long
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