Re: KZJ Series? (Dell Server Motherboard)
Yes, it was. We never ended up doing anything with it. It wasn't currently affecting anything, and was replaced less than a year later for other reasons.
If the info would have been easily accessible I probably would have done it preventatively, but I never found the info I needed, and the server was working properly until it was retired....
bw1
Senior Member
Last Activity: 12-04-2016, 09:51 PM
Joined: 09-03-2010
Location: Central US
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Used a slightly lower ripple rating for replacement...
Had a Dell Dimension come in that was somewhat urgent. Originals were 8x20mm 6.3v 1800uF 12ohm/2350mA.
I had matching replacements on hand except the ripple was 2220mA -- I'd like to think that they don't push tolerances quite that far so as to make ~100mA be a crucial requirement.
Is this ok? I did it in the meantime regardless, so I guess what I'm asking is if I should take the time to replace them with a same/higher ripple replacement or leave them as-is.
It's a 2GB box running Vista, so if they go bad in 3-4 years it's not the end of the world.... -
Re: HM to replace KZG?
I did open the original power supply and caps are visually OK. Also passes my ATX tester OK. Not sure. Probably just going to replace the board and if it's fixable use it somewhere else, unless someone has any other ideas shortly.Leave a comment:
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Re: HM to replace KZG?
Model is Intel BOXD946GZISSL. Still available at Newegg, but this was purchased back in 2008.
I don't have a camera handy, but I attached a stock photo of the board. The caps that were replaced are the bigger ones next to the North Bridge (5), the 2 by the IDE port, and 1 by the Memory Slots (8 total).
Nothing else looks damaged or questionable.
PCI-E card didn't help. Actually, with onboard, it does light the monitor Green led for a couple seconds, and then amber. With PCI-E, I didn't get anything at all. Neither...Leave a comment:
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Re: HM to replace KZG?
Well, the original symptoms were no video, and after opening the box, I saw all the bad capacitors. Easily replaced them all, and still no video.
Power supply tested OK and also swapped out w/new just in case. Same thing.
All other caps look OK, and are of a different series, etc. than the bad ones (all of which were replaced), so I don't suspect caps.
Also did a full BIOS reset.
Anyone have any other thoughts before I replace the board?Leave a comment:
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Re: HM to replace KZG?
You bring up a good point - I had missed it on the spec sheet because the 10mm widths weren't together in the list for 3300, and there was a smaller one between them, so I assumed the ones I had were 20mm. Looked too quickly I guess.
The 10x25mm that I actually DO have here turns out to be a perfect match at 12Ω/2800mA.
Thanks for pointing that out!Leave a comment:
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HM to replace KZG?
I know the ratings aren't exact, and that the existing cap won't be running right at the top of it's rating, but I never know how far you can push the limits... Someone point me in the right direction here.
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Old caps are 6.3/3300 KZG's (12Ω/2800mA 10x25mm)
I currently have 6.3/3300 HM's (10Ω/2550mA 10x20mm), and it would be nice to use them and not have to wait for a new order.
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Think 2550mA is too low to replace the 2800mA? I have absolutely no idea what load these actually see, so I don't know how close this... -
Panasonic FM to replace KZG?
I've got a couple Lenovo Thinkcentre's in with a couple smaller bulging caps in each. The failing ones are 6.3v/1000uf KZG's (8x12.5ish/15ish). I don't see these in the spec sheet, so must be somewhat custom. I suspect them to be around 30-32Ω/1,300mA based on the surrounding specs in the spec sheet, but I'd appreciate a confirmation on that.
Looking to replace them with 10v/1000uf Panasonic FM's (8x20) that are 30Ω/1,570mA.
There are about a dozen on each board, 2-4 failing on each, and are located scattered throughout the board, from memory to pci to northbridge... -
Re: Benchtop Power Supply troubleshooting
This has been waaaaaay on the back burner for a while now. I haven't had time to troubleshoot any more with the circuits themselves, but since the adjustable regulator was obviously fried, and very cheap, I do have a replacement part here for that.
If there are other transistors that are bad, or other components, is the probability that it just wouldn't work, or is there a chance that it would output too high and damage equipment hooked up to it?
If it just will work / not work, I'm just going to try replacing the...Leave a comment:
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Re: KZJ Series? (Dell Server Motherboard)
10v HN it is. I believe you that the 6.3 would work -- they're not that far off at all. I just figured that 10v isn't really any more expensive, is a bit closer to correct, and is probably a bit more universal with the extras I'll have.Leave a comment:
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Re: KZJ Series? (Dell Server Motherboard)
Sorry - forgot to mention the size. 10x16mm.
I don't have the board here, as it's still in service; I was addressing low hard drive space and I always do a full visual for things like this.
I don't have a picture of the EXACT board, either, but the board in the picture is close enough to give you an idea of which caps these are.
There are a total of three, with two showing signs of failure....Leave a comment:
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Re: KZJ Series? (Dell Server Motherboard)
Thank you for the spec sheet!
From what I can see, the HN's and GC's wouldn't work, as their ripple is lower than the KZJ's. HZ looks closer, doesn't it? Any others you can think of?Leave a comment:
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KZJ Series? (Dell Server Motherboard)
I've got a Dell PowerEdge motherboard here with two leaking 6.3v/1800uf KZJ's. I can't find a lot of information on these, but understand they're out of production and crappy anyways.
What would a recommended replacement be?
Thanks! -
Re: Benchtop Power Supply troubleshooting
Replace it with identical chip and try it out? Or should I be testing/checking anything else before doing that?Leave a comment:
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Re: Benchtop Power Supply troubleshooting
Removing the board revealed more. (I know, I know. Should have seen it. It was hidden under the one big cap and not really visible.)
Looks to be a fried 5v regulator? So, is that likely the cause of the problem, or just a symptom?...Last edited by bw1; 07-25-2011, 05:20 PM.Leave a comment:
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Benchtop Power Supply troubleshooting
First, I should mention that I don't (yet) even have the unit that this powers, so I can't do much testing at this point. I'm told it won't power their testing unit.
Unit is rated at 12V/6A output.
By the looks of it, and my limited knowledge of power supplies, the transformer feeds a full-wave rectifier. Measurements at rectifier are the following:
AC-IN: 15vAC (approx)
DC-OUT: 19vDC (approx)
Does this look correct so far?
The only measureable output at the front is two pins that read around 3vDC, but for all I... -
Re: HN to replace HM - V-Core
It's back up and running. Haven't done anything with it, it's only been running for a few minutes. Looks to be good though.
Thanks!...Last edited by bw1; 07-20-2011, 04:06 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Here's one for y'all....
R37 is one of the few that I did measure (while on the board) and it checked out as far as resistance is concerned. The cap above R17 looks OK visually (all do, actually) and is only 1uf/50v, so I wouldn't suspect it otherwise. I'm not sure why it has all the glue residue all around it, but besides that looks OK.
Any idea what that potentiometer is for?
And again, the main problem/question I've got is why it needs 3-4 seconds to build-up to full voltage; Once it's there, it hangs right around 15.6-15.7V pretty stable.Leave a comment:
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HN to replace HM - V-Core
Have an eMachines motherboard here that had bad v-core HM's (8). I've got HN's in the correct size and value (2200/6.3).
I see ripple would be just fine, but looks like impedance is 11 vs. original 18.
Is that okay?
This motherboard is 5 years old and even though 6 of the 8 were leaking electrolyte, was running just fine up until I pulled them off. The rest of the caps on the board look fine visually, so I'm going to leave the rest and if there are ever future problems deal with it then, if the computer is still in use that long. -
Here's one for y'all....
Ever work on a stoplight?
I've got an LED module from a stoplight (was working fine when I first acquired it, now the green module has issues) that has a "delayed-on" condition. Instead of the usual instant on, as it used to be and as the red/yellow modules are, it takes around 2 seconds for the LEDs to light right now. They come on instantly, at full brightness, but almost exactly 2 seconds after power was applied.
I haven't done a lot with it, as I'm not the best at power supply troubleshooting, but I did measure the DC voltage between Vcc/Gnd for the MC33262P...
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