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TinSoldier
TinSoldier
Member
Last Activity: 03-26-2011, 05:08 PM
Joined: 07-27-2010
Location: Aloha, Oregon
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  • Re: Samsung LN-S4041D Repaired - Finally

    Same model TV, same problem, same solder joint.

    I had originally bought the TV used a couple of months ago and the original problem was power up problem caused by the caps. I posted a picture of them in another thread.

    The past week or two the screen has been going black but audio remained. And it was getting worse and worse.

    Took the TV apart this morning and found the exact same solder joint on the inverter transformer broken. I resoldered both input connections. Seems to be okay, for now.
    ...
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  • Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage

    Thanks! *files away in cerebral knowledge base*...
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  • Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage

    Heh, yeah. I got that. It's right in my post.

    I just wasn't sure what "U8A" meant although I [i]think[/i] it might be some kind of date code (other caps are marked U something A). There's also an "M" in parentheses after the 105C mark.

    But yeah, I've read that the 10V rated caps in these TVs are faulty and that the Samwha WB series caps are touch-and-go in general. (Someone here, somewhere, mentioned that.)Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage

    Heh, yeah. I got
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  • Re: The Hall of Shame - Badcaps Photo Montage

    Here are the bad caps from my Samsung LN-S4041D LCDTV power supply board. Samwha 1000uF 10V 105C series WB. They're also marked "U8A" on one side. Not sure what that means, doesn't quite seem like a date code but I guess it could be.

    Replaced with Rubicon 1000uF 16V MCZs from Badcaps.net. Four of them.

    I was going to replace the other two, but I failed to notice on my initial inspection before ordering that the two other caps were 1000uF [b]25V[/b]. They're also series WB but they seem to be okay....
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  • Re: DIY Flux Paste applicator gun.

    Agree. The less flux the better if using rosin core (which is most solders).

    You get the best results by tinning your leads and pads, and cleaning your solder before using it.

    The only time I use flux really is if I have a worn solder tip and cannot make a good thermal contact without it, or without adding solder directly to the tip (which I was taught is a no-no but which works regardless).
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  • Re: DIY Flux Paste applicator gun.

    Ack! I meant flux used to come just as liquid.

    The no-clean I've heard is more corrosive than the regular stuff. But that was just tech to tech so it may have just been rumor.

    Quick Google, and these guys are obviously biased in order to sell product, but here: [url]http://www.cirris.com/testing/guidelines/no-clean-flux.html[/url]Re: DIY Flux Paste applicator gun.<b... that was just...
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    Last edited by TinSoldier; 07-31-2010, 08:31 PM.

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  • Re: DIY Flux Paste applicator gun.

    Yeah, but that's no-clean flux (which isn't really no-clean, you still have to clean up after it). Don't use it with flux core solder.

    Solder used to just come in a liquid, then in pens. Sometimes we still just drain the liquid out of the pens in order to use it as we want to do.
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  • Re: New Members - please post your introductions here

    Hi, all!

    I found this site while researching a power up problem with a Samsung LN-S4041D LCDTV which I bought used from a friend.

    Even though other sites describe the problem and helpfully show what to look for and how to fix it, this place is the most technical of all the ones I've looked at. And I also ordered my replacement caps from here and received them today!

    I'll probably wait until Monday to replace the caps at work, though, as work has the soldering stations etc. to do the...
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