Thanks Vince,
I didn't flex the panel to get the picture to come on, I wiggled the t-con cables.
After several hours the picture is "perfect" and flexing the panel as much as I'm able doesn't adversely affect the quality of the picture.
I'm considering putting the back on the TV and just leaving it switched on all the time. Better still, leaving it in standby alone might do the trick but I somehow doubt that that will maintain enough heat in the boards.
I've flexed the panel as much as I'm able, which is some, considering the rigidity of the metal chassis. It had no effect on the panel display, which is currently very good to excellent, because the tv has been on for a few hours....
Tested the voltages from the power supply after the TV has been running for 4 hours. The heatsinks on the power supply board are now hot.
All the voltages are as they should be and were when the the test was done at initial switch on.
Those pins and wires that have labels describing other than a specific voltage,or ground,
such as:
After 3 hours, great picture, no lines, no freezing.
Display now seems faultless.
Seems identical to the same problem I started with.
As the repair flowchart pinpointed the t-con board as the problem can anyone please point me to t-con board component testing procedures?
Further advice of any type would be most welcome.
Just cleaned the ribbon cables.
After 1 hour fairly good picture. Some feint horizontal lines near top of panel.
But at this point, picture freezes. Giving the panel a wiggle, picture animates, then freezes again. This is since I took the cover off the t-con board and disturbed the cable ends to clean them.
I can see where the ribbon cables go from the t-con board to the panel but visual or other access to the LCD panel tab bonds is not available at this level of strip down. Maybe I need to go further in....
Thanks, I'll do what I can of that.
Looks like I'll have to buy a set of cables from EBay unless it's possible to buy just the replacement metal connector by itself....
On closer inspection the t-con board end of one of the cables from the mainboard, keeps slipping out. It looks like part of the plastic locking button at the side is missing. This cable has a metal mating part to connect to the metal socket on the board....
I took the cover off the t-con board, switched the TV on and wiggled the cables around the board. The picture came on immediately, then froze, then a new effect which was the screen divided in half vertically with some coloured vertical bars on one side and and a blank screen on the other....
I'm testing it exactly as you describe, except, as you mention, I seem to be having trouble getting the positive tip to reach metal.
I've tried a light touch and a somewhat heaver touch. I'm a bit reluctant to press harder, so I think I'd better try your needle method....
All good advice.
Where trial and error is concerned, my main error so far is not being able to conduct specific trials to a conclusive point.
I appreciate your detailed advice and I'll carry out the test you describe in the way you describe them.
I'm still trying to test the power supply board and I'm not keen to move on to other areas until I've tested it effectively..
Is it really possible that the problem is in the panel, even if the display comes good after a long wait?...
I hope I'm not getting this wrong but my limited understanding is that each board would be heated overall with a hair dryer.
Then eventually the board with the fault would function properly after heating, so the TV would then perform correctly for a while.
Having identified the problem board by this method, then individual components on the various faulty board areas would be selectively heated to identify the faulty component more specifically.
I see that several kits available for replacement seem to have just some of the electrolytic capacitors, rather than the full range of capacitors on the board.
Is this OK? Are the other capacitors on the board considered not to be a potential problem?
I've only ever done board and card swap outs before, never any component testing, so it took me a bit of time to get this far.
Multi meter test showed:
IC801 = 3.311V output
IC803 = 1.811V output
So they seem to be OK.
==========
Is it possible to validate the overall state of the power supply board by
testing the output voltages from it to the main
board on the one side and the inverter board on the other, or is it more complicated than...
Leave a comment: