Re: Ultra ULT-LS6000P 600W ATX
Ok, looking for some more guidance. What is this and how do I test it? And does it have polarity? I pulled it out a couple weeks ago thinking I had a picture of how it went, and I don't....nor do I know if its any good. I put it on my ohm meter and it reads open.... it appears to be part of this same circuit that is shot with all these bad parts.
Yeah, and I know this thing is really not worth it money wise, but I'm considering it an education and educations aren't cheap!! ...
Thank you to the guys at HEGE supporting Badcaps [ HEGE ] [ HEGE DEX Chart ]
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Re: Ultra ULT-LS6000P 600W ATX
This thing is driving me crazy.... I'm starting to question if its worth fixing. So these resistors are around the switching transistors on primary side. Hoping someone can confirm my color translations:
Brown:green:black:gold:brown
Black:green:black:silver:brown
Hard to tell, they have both been heated, so the colors look dull to me....or maybe I'm getting color blind. Really wish I had a schematic of this pile....
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Re: Ultra ULT-LS6000P 600W ATX
So it sounds like Ultra is no different than the rest of the PS manufactures that lie on their labels..... It's irrelevant though, I'm just fixing it to learn and possible have a spare if I get it going....
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Re: Ultra ULT-LS6000P 600W ATX
Well, this PS is teaching me a lot....since I replaced the caps and verified those resistors. I've found a trace on the back side that is "missing a chunk", a completely burnt resistor under the heatsink that holding a bad NPN Transistor. Apparently when the fan goes, this thing went strait to burns ville. I've already found what I think to be a good replacement for the burnt Resistor, but I'm not sure about this NPN Transistor. Found a datasheet on it, but I'm not versed enough to know where to get a replacement. Can anyone suggest where...
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Re: Ultra ULT-LS6000P 600W ATX
Well, I guess this is how I learn, your suggestions are right on. the resistance on R3 is 100k ohms as it R2. and they are crossing traces between the primary caps. I assumed because it was toasted on the outside that it was shot, but it appears to be ok. I'm going to drop it back in with some new caps and see if it powers up.
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Ultra ULT-LS6000P 600W ATX
I have this Ultra ULT-LS6000P 600W ATX, blown primary input caps, and a Resistor that sits between them that I can't read the colors. Anyone have a schematic on this or have one they can ID the R3 resistor? Pictures show caps removed, the glue between the circles is the location for R3. And you can see the resistor sitting on the table next to it. Any help would be appreciated!
Regards....
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RCA Model 20F420T Chasis M123SP
This model TV would turn on for a second or two, sometimes long enough to tune a picture, then shut back down. I found little information on this TV other than someone said check the solder joints on the flyback. The one marked Heater looked like it was cracked so I reflowed that one and all of them for good measure. TV seems to stay on now. Since this forum has helped me so many times, I thought maybe this could be useful to someone else.
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Re: Raidmax RX-380K (ky-480atx)
The Unique, your right! It was the 13007, I found a donor, tested the 13007 and it was good. I slapped it in and it fires up. So, no money spent, all donar parts. 4 caps, 2 transistors. I spent some time testing and poking, but it was worth it just in learning and practicing my testing skills. Now yes I realize I brought back to life a complete pile. But it will be a good backup PSU in a pinch. Thanks for the tips guys! This is why I love this site and its forums.
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Re: Raidmax RX-380K (ky-480atx)
I don't dispute they are junk, but it is the only one I have to work on, and it is exactly what 370forlife says, an "educational experience". I was just testing the 13007k and found one that reads both ways....so I'm assuming this is the bad one...Now I just need to find a donor....I'm surely not going to spend any money on new parts for this pile.
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Re: Xbox 360 No Power
The first link you posted seems pretty self explanatory and sounds right to me. I'm not an expert at this stuff. But if you read up on mosfets, that post makes perfect sense to me and seems like a logical way to test if it the fet is working.
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Raidmax RX-380K (ky-480atx)
So I have this Raidmax SMPS (I know yuck), but I would kinda like to revive it. I've been poking around with my novice skills and am a bit lost. I only has +5v standby power, nothing else. I've replaced some caps that failed my ESR tests, checked the mosfets on the secondary side. Check some diodes and resisters in the area near the hot zone around the mosfets. still no go. Looking for some expert guidance if anyone can help me....
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Re: No image
We envy your low crime rate and government health care!! But lets not open that off topic can of worms!! ...
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Re: Half success on AL1716
the Voltage Regulator AS1117L-18 output should be 1.8v no questions. I just replaced that same part in an similar Acer AL1706 Monitor. The appears to be a very week link in this model line....
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 920N problems
From one to another, I would measure output voltages when cold vs. warm and see if there is any unstable voltages after it warms up, might give a clue where to start. Also you could swap boards with on of the working ones, just to verify what board the problem really lies on. Being new at this myself, I was recently thinking I had a power supply problem on a completely dead screen and it ended up being the logic board. ...my 2 cents......
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Re: No image
Results: Both Voltage Regulators on logic board bad!
Donor Regulator now in U101 is putting out consistent 3.3v. And new LM117MP-1.8CT-ND from Digikey in position U102 is outputing 1.78v.
Monitor now powers on and displays an image. Fixed!
Thanks everyone!...
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Re: No image
I found a donor board to get me the 1117-3.3v regulator, swapping that into the circuit gives me a solid 3.3 volts on the output of U101.
I had to order a new 1.8v regulator from digikey today since I couldn't find one to scalp, so we will have to wait for the verdict. I'm learning....very slowly.....but learning non-the-less! Thanks to everyone so far for all the guidance, and to the owners of badcaps....this is a great place.
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Re: No image
schematic is in this pdf link from acer.com near the bottom of the document.
With the input voltages being nearly the same between the two boards, wouldn't that suggest that the caps are ok, and the VR's are the problem?
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Re: No image
Input voltage on good board is U102 5.05v and U101 4.77v
Input voltage on bad board is U102 5.06v and U101 4.80v
Using the same PSU board....
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Re: No image
U101 is dishing out 3.26v on the good board and 3.75v on the bad board.
U102 is dishing out 1.79v on the good board and 1.20v on the bad board.
Input voltage is the same on both boards.
Schematic says U101 is 3.3v output and U102 is 1.8v output. So would both VRs be bad on the bad board? Or is something else causing the voltages to be off?Last edited by bsweasel; 01-14-2011, 03:44 PM.
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Re: No image
Don't have a picture yet, forgot my camera. Here is a link to a picture of the logic board. It looks just like it, and I don't see any physical damage when looking at it via a magnifying glass...
[url]http://mylcdboard.com/upfile/201012102209517500750.jpg[/url]Re: No image<br /> <br /> Don't ha...517500750.jpg[
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