Hello all,
A friend asked me to look at her macbook after she 'smelt burning' and it turned off. She tells me they spilt coffee approx 6 months ago on it but it only popped a few days ago. I took the back off to have a look and there is clear sign of liquid damage and a smoking gun area around Q7155 (see attachments). I cleaned the area up a bit with IPA and it doesnt look as bad as i first thought. The other components around there still actually look intact - I realise that is likely just superficial. I took some measurements and there are a lot of shorts to ground, but fingers crossed...

Re: HISENSE 32D12 32" LED TV caps needed

Sorry, I didn't take any picture of the fixed version as i put it back together straight away. Although it was this one in maplin [url]http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/2200f-16v-105c-radial-electrolytic-capacitor-n12eb[/url] but the colour of it was a brown/black not red/pink as in the advert.
Thanks, PhilRe: HISENSE 32D12 32" LED TV caps ne...or-n12eb[/url]

Re: HISENSE 32D12 32" LED TV caps needed

Yes all fixed, my son was over the moon, he can get back to his PS4 on this lovely Sunny Sunday now! Grrrr

Re: HISENSE 32D12 32" LED TV caps needed

Reecey, thanks for the reply. I decided to pop up to maplins rather than wait for the part from china! So i paid 99p for the nearest cap in maplins which was 2200uF 16V, and it is physically about the same size (if a smidge bigger) than the original 10V one but it works perfectly and I can chalk the job up to another win for my radar techie training
For the benefit of others looking to see what the visual indication on the cap prompted me to feel it was the cause, it was only a very small buldge on the top, I have 2 pics of...

Re: HISENSE 32D12 32" LED TV caps needed

OP, Did you ever replace those capacitors and did it fix the problem? My son has a LOGIK L22FE12 (Curry's UK brand) with the same power problem, blue power light with nothing on the screen, then turns to red standby. I took the back off the TV and the same capacitor as yours is bulging (CD286 VENT 105c F5) which is a 2200uF 10V. I proved it was the circuit board and not the back light by disconnecting the signal ribbon cable to the actual screen and powering on, it turned on and stayed on (blue light) with the backlights on full brightness...