HI FRIEND how can repair , fix this monitor Soyo Model MT-NI-DYLM1996 change cap
i have also some problem , or update eeprom, please help with this repair
thank you very much
emmanuel
of colombia
[email]melodias7@hotmail.com[/email]HI FRIEND how can repair , fix this ...il.com[/email]
browork
Senior Member
Last Activity: 04-24-2010, 09:50 PM
Joined: 03-24-2010
Location: Kansas
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Re: Soyo MT-NI-DYLM1996 - Two Seconds to Black
Readings with the CCFLs switched...
D12 1.22V
D13 1.54V
D21 1.76V
D11 1.23V
D20 1.23V
D23 0.76V
D22 1.55V
D19 1.22V
Just to confirm I switched the CCFL wires back and got almost the same readings listed in my previous post...
D12 1.33V
D13 0.74V
D21 2.34V
D11 1.35V
D20 1.35V
D23 0.74V
D22 0.56V
D19 1.33V
It looks like it moved, but others changed too so I am unsure... Even though... -
Re: Soyo MT-NI-DYLM1996 - Two Seconds to Black
D21 does not seem right. I checked it twice.
My first inclination is that it should be close to D23 reading, but I may be wrong.
Beyond that I am not sure.Leave a comment:
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Re: Soyo MT-NI-DYLM1996 - Two Seconds to Black
The voltage readings you asked for. And yes one pin on each leads to ground if you were asking that.
From left to right...
Labeled D12 1.33V (Yellow)
Labeled D21 2.10V (Orange)
Labeled D11 1.34V (Yellow)
Labeled D23 0.75V (Orange)
Labeled D19 1.33V (Yellow)
The other voltages on the pins you didn't label with a red dot...
Labeled D13 0.84V (Orange)
Labeled D20 1.34V (Yellow)
Labeled D22 0.68V (Orange)Leave a comment:
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Re: Soyo MT-NI-DYLM1996 - Two Seconds to Black
I thought I used DC voltage, I meant to use DC voltage, however upon retesting I guess I did not... The switch between AC and DC voltage on my multimeter is the most hated thing I have that is electronic.
All the R Voltages reads between 1.4V and 1.9V.
All the V Voltages still read over 600V.
All the circled solder joints look fine.
Attached is a closer picture of that area. Natural lighting used since you can't really get a good flash picture that close with so many reflective ob...Leave a comment:
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Re: Soyo MT-NI-DYLM1996 - Two Seconds to Black
Voltage at all eight points...
V1-V4 all over 600V (my multimeter maxs at 600V) see picture.
R1 - 19V
R2 - 17V
R3 - 14V
R4 - 14V
When measuring the R readings that was the peek voltage at the time the light shut off. It may have been going higher. Either way this does not bode well I am thinking.......Leave a comment:
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Re: Soyo MT-NI-DYLM1996 - Two Seconds to Black
All the caps were replaced with Panasonic, except the 220uF 25V which I didn't have in Panasonic so I had to use a Xicon 220uF 35V. Or rather I didn't have 220uF with at least 25V in Panasonic. I have some in Panasonic 220uF 6.3V I have been using repairing some HP motherboards.Last edited by browork; 04-24-2010, 12:32 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Soyo MT-NI-DYLM1996 - Two Seconds to Black
Alright, caps replaced and still the same issue.
As I stated above, I plugged the CCFLs into another monitor and they light up and stay lit. So I do not think it is the CCFLs.
Your suggestion of taking testing different CCFLs on this board, caused the same issue, two seconds lit then dark.
Attached the another (flipped) pic of the power/inverter board.
BTW your Twins just beat my beloved Royals...
...
Leave a comment:
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Soyo MT-NI-DYLM1996 - Two Seconds to Black
I have a Soyo Model MT-NI-DYLM1996 with the common Two Seconds to Black issue.
It has been said in the past by PB "The problem you describe is known as the 'two seconds to black' problem, and can have many causes. Bad caps in the power supply are one of the possible causes..., as are bad CCFLs, bad wiring to the CCFLs, a shorted or open inverter transformer, a bad driver to an inverter transformer, or a bad component in the circuitry that monitors the CCFL status."
All the caps on the power supply look good. They are made by fuhjyyu.
The CCFLs... -
Re: Impression 7LSP - No Video/Hum in Right Speaker
I would like the Royals to win the World Series.
Now that you are done laughing, more realistically I expect either Yankees or Devil Rays vs Cardinals or Phillies. Between those teams I would like to see the Cardinals or Rays as the top team.
What do you think?Leave a comment:
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Re: Impression 7LSP - No Video/Hum in Right Speaker
I replaced the fuse. It has been working great ever since. I will let it run a few more days before I call it fixed, but it looks like the fuse might have been the only issue.Leave a comment:
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Re: Impression 7LSP - No Video/Hum in Right Speaker
PB, you were right to question the size of the fuse. Either I was seriously distracted when I looked for that part or I need to learn the difference between mm and inch.
The correct part, and the one that is the correct size and on order is DigiKey Part number SF-1206S300-2CT-ND
As a side note the monitor has now been running fine for the last five days with a wire replacing the fuse.Leave a comment:
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Re: Impression 7LSP - No Video/Hum in Right Speaker
The size is right so the fuse is on order. Here is hoping that is the only problem, and I messed up soldering to give the transformer a buzz.
I have already removed the audio board, thought I will leave the speakers in the monitor (just not plugged into any thing). I don't use the built in speakers anyway.Leave a comment:
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Re: Impression 7LSP - No Video/Hum in Right Speaker
Would Digikey part 0402SFF300F/24CT-ND be OK for a replacement fuse? Or should I go with Digikey part P11368CT-ND?
Both are 24V, that is right, correct?Leave a comment:
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Re: Impression 7LSP - No Video/Hum in Right Speaker
Labeling the transformers from left to right, 1 and 2.
2 was the one that was buzzing...
2 is also the one I removed... By the way how disturbing is this that the board still worked? Will it affect the usage when I get this one fixed?
All that you already know and I posted above...
I flipped the board and plugged the top ccfl into the bottom of the board. (bottom was to the left in the pictures)
No buzzing noise, no backlight on the bottom of the screen....Last edited by browork; 04-17-2010, 03:15 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Impression 7LSP - No Video/Hum in Right Speaker
As a side note I removed the transformer I circled. The hum is gone and the top half of the screen was dark (theres a shock). The part number of the transformer is SIT10153-1935 314D. I do not find this on Digikey or a Google search.Leave a comment:
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Re: Impression 7LSP - No Video/Hum in Right Speaker
Since I like fire I went with option number 4... I also removed the transformers and resoldered them.
The LCD powered on fine and displays a screen fine. However, there is a buzzing noise coming from the circled part of the inverter board. I assume this is the transformer.
Any thoughts about this?
If it is the transformer, what part would I replace it with? Should I replace both of them?
Finally what type of fuse should I order? Picofuse brings up no results on...Leave a comment:
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Re: Impression 7LSP - No Video/Hum in Right Speaker
Nothing on the board you circled is shorted. So does this mean I only need to replace the fuse? What do I look for in a replacement fuse.
Out of curiosity. When you say resolder the transformers. Do you mean taking them out of circuit and then putting them back in. Or just using a solder sucker to remove the solder and replace it with fresh/new solder?
I am not the best at explaining things, but here goes...
The flash thing is easy. Pick a light surface (white if possible) with a darker...Leave a comment:
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Re: Impression 7LSP - No Video/Hum in Right Speaker
The fuse is blown/open. The only thing I see on the fuse is a very faint 3. Is this a 3 amp fuse?
Attached are some better pictures. I still am using the flash, there is not enough natural light to not use it. Using an old photography trick of bouncing the light for a little better picture.
I see nothing on the board labeled C201, R103 or so on, but I will attack it with a magnifying glass once I find it....Leave a comment:
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Re: Impression 7LSP - No Video/Hum in Right Speaker
You are right and I am wrong. Late last night I had stated, "It truly has no video, you cannot see anything on the screen in a pitch black room," I now see this is not true.
Today when I plugged in the monitor, in the full light of day I see the screen, with no blacklight of course.
Is there any way we can test those backlights to make sure they are bad? Would both go out at once?
Attached are pictures of the inverter board. If I fix this I will probably remove the audio board...Last edited by browork; 04-16-2010, 12:15 PM.Leave a comment:
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