Re: Asus GL504GS BIOS BIN
I got curious and flashed the engineering dump. Haven't done an analysis of the effects so far, but the laptop now boots without issues. I've been lurking on this forum for years (since the cap plague back in the mid 2000s - stacks and stacks of blown P4P800-VM & P5LD2-VM boards), it's time for a donation, which I have now made. Thank you very much for the assistance! Please feel free to delete the photo, serial number, and two dumps I uploaded as I don't think they'll be of much use to others - I would do it myself but I don't think I can edit my old...
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Last edited by turbo9000; 07-19-2023, 06:14 PM.
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Re: Asus GL504GS BIOS BIN
Can I straight flash the engineering dump without losing device-specific info? Would there be a possible issue with EC firmware mismatch? Asking as WSON8 is a pain to work with and I don't want to physically break anything! This is my own laptop, I have a cheap hot air station & a CH341 programmer I did a 3.3V mod on. The chip itself is precariously held in the SOIC8 clip the programmer came with, which astoundingly worked, but I don't know if I can get a good connection a second time.
I also looked at the bin provided by Cosmouaz, seems...
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Re: Asus GL504GS BIOS BIN
Thank you, I have attached both. I believe the S/N is JANRCV01K981428....
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Asus GL504GS BIOS BIN
Hi, I have an Asus GL504GS where, using a modded BIOS, settings were saved that rendered it unbootable (no display output on internal or external etc) - pulling the CMOS battery and all other power (battery, AC), leaving for a day, did not reset them. The BIOS recovery procedure does not work. The chip is WSON8, I can remove and reflash it, but I believe I need a full dump.
Knowing which areas to clear out to cause a variable reset/reinitialization to defaults would also help, then I wouldn't need to reflash & could just erase that portion on the chip.
Any help...Last edited by turbo9000; 07-16-2023, 12:09 PM.
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Re: Philips 32PFL3505D/F7 No Power
After some hunting & datasheet comparisons, I went for an NTE26, carried by a local supplier (a1parts.com) for $2.10 - can't go wrong! B+ now sits at 82V and the set runs just fine. Many thanks once again!
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Re: Muskoka 35" curved fireplace power supply.
Just as an update for anyone else running into this, it turned out to be an issue with the rotation speed of the blower motor. Initially I had thought the relay was bad, but must've erred in how I was probing things as the relay turned out to be fine.
The existing blower assembly was gunked up enough for the motor to be unable to spin it. It spun fine by hand, but turns out there must be nearly no friction/resistance for the motor driving it to achieve the necessary RPM & airflow. Even after a cleaning, it didn't...
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Re: Philips 32PFL3505D/F7 No Power
Thank you RCA2000 & neilc6, this was precisely the problem with my DS4A 32PFL3505D/F7. The symptoms identically matched the ones outlined by neilc6 and, sure enough, after taking a hairdryer to Q1970 as per RCA2000, the set powered on.. with a B+ of around 93V.
Q1970 is listed as a KTC3200-GR-AT/P, which seems to be discontinued - "There were issues with the early production of the KTC3200's, especially when used in a driver application with current approaching their SOA ratings - they tended to fail!
KEC at the time...Last edited by turbo9000; 05-11-2017, 09:56 AM.
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Re: Muskoka 35" curved fireplace power supply.
To clarify the board connectors a bit:
DISPLAY - goes to the front panel display/input, basically identical to the one previously posted.
NTC - looks to be a temperature probe, is mounted right beside the blower/heater assembly.
PLUG1 & PLUG2 - power two strips of ambient-lighting LEDs on either side of the unit
FLAME - powers a strip of LEDs at the bottom of the unit, this creates the light for the 'flame' effect
MOTOR - powers a small motor driving a long strip of shiny prongs, creating...
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Re: Muskoka 35" curved fireplace power supply.
My own fireplace recently stopped working, took it apart and found the mainboard to be almost identical to the one shown here (see attached). In my case, everything save for the blower motor & heater works.
I've probed the larger Golden relay and sure enough, nothing across it. From the datasheet posted above, 12V across the coil should switch it. I probed for 12V at pin 10 of IC6 (which is indeed a Darlington transistor array, ULN2003AN in this case - [url]https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/189136004d8d6c9af4545383d958bacf.pdf[/url]...
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