Re: Würth Elektronik Electrolytic Capacitors Official Thread
I would hope that a company with the reputation of Wurth would have invested time and effort to make sure that the product they're stamping their name on will not sully their reputation. I cannot see them rebranding low quality products. It would be like BMW rebranding Geely Motors cars as their own.
Electone
Member
Last Activity: 08-05-2024, 05:44 PM
Joined: 03-03-2016
Location: London, ON
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Re: EPCOS (TDK) and Cornell Dubilier (CDE) electrolytic capacitors
I've used CDE filter caps for a lot of audio amplifier / receiver restoration projects and they have been excellent. Mostly the SLPX and 380/381/382 series.Leave a comment:
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Re: Würth Elektronik Electrolytic Capacitors Official Thread
I used the ATLL series which is, I believe, comparable to Nichicon PW....Leave a comment:
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Re: Würth Elektronik Electrolytic Capacitors Official Thread
Well, I completed my re-cap job with the Wurths. Everything went fine and unit is working great. We'll see how things go from here, but I've used a lot of Wurth products in the past from automotive to electrical and have never had any issues. What I do know is that the job cost 1/3 less than going with similar Nichicon caps.Leave a comment:
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Re: Würth Elektronik Electrolytic Capacitors Official Thread
Just as a comparison, I have put together a Wurth to Nichicon cross reference:
ATG8 --> VR
ATG5 --> VZ
AT1H --> PV
ATET --> BT
ATLI --> PJ
ATUL --> ?
ATLL --> PWLeave a comment:
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Würth Elektronik Electrolytic Capacitors Official Thread
Not a lot of information out there on this German company's electrolytics. They have a family of seven different types:
WCAP-ATG8: General Purpose, standard temperature
WCAP-ATG5: General Purpose, wide temperature
WCAP-AT1H: Long Life, wide temperature
WCAP-ATET: Long Life, very wide temperature
WCAP-ATLI: Low Impedance, wide temperature
WCAP-ATUL: Low ESR, Long Life, wide temperature
WCAP-ATLL: Low Impedance, Long Life, wide temperature
They generally sell at lower prices than their Japanese competitors. This would be a good... -
Re: Adcom GFA-555 ii power amp filter caps
Sounds like a plan. Exact replacements would be cost prohibitive. I was looking at some CDE 382LXs but they are not screw terminals, so i'd have to modify the connections.Leave a comment:
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Adcom GFA-555 ii power amp filter caps
I picked up a mint 555ii last week and I'm just going over it. I did some measurements on the four big filter caps and it seems one of them may be dying. They are the original Adcom 15,000uF 100V caps.
1. 15.96mF, ESR 1.2ohm, Vloss 0.9%
2. 10.16mF, ESR 1.2ohm, Vloss 1.6%
3. 15.92mF, ESR 1.3ohm, Vloss 1.9%
4. 15.36mF, ESR 1.2ohm, Vloss 2.3%
Questions are would it be ok to leave things as they are, or should I replace cap #2 or replace all four.
The amps sounds perfectly fine as is and is very powerful.
Thank-you in... -
Re: Dropping down 2 volts??
Looks like the cost of two 80V caps is not that much more than the 63V. So, I think I'll buy two of each. Thanks for the help.Leave a comment:
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Dropping down 2 volts??
I'm about to recap the power supply on a very large Yamaha organ from the 1980s. It has four large caps on the main power supply: 2 x 10000uf 65v and 2 x 10000 55v. These values are not easily obtained any more. Would it be an issue if I replaced all four with 10000uf 63v? Would the 2v drop in two of the caps be a bad idea? Thanks. -
Re: Need help repair an ADCOM cd-player
Try a drop or two of oil on the shafts of each of the motors in the unit. Allow the oil to wick itself down into the motors. I had a skipping Sony that was cured by this procedure.Leave a comment:
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Re: Yamaha CR-2020 Phono Board help
Interesting. Thank-you. I was hoping to replace the tantalums with electrolytics. There are so many opinions about how tantalums should never be in the signal path, I was hoping that a high quality electrolytic like Silmics or Nichicon FGs would improve the sound.Leave a comment:
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Re: Yamaha CR-2020 Phono Board help
The originals are tantalums. That photo is lifted off the net and has already had the tantalums replaced by electrolytics. Based on the circuit photo I attached how do you believe the traces would follow?Leave a comment:
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Yamaha CR-2020 Phono Board help
I have recapped the majority of this receiver and just decided to yank out the tantalum caps from the phono board. It is an almost impossible job without removing the entire board as there are metal crossmembers underneath the pcb. I loosened the board as much as I could and removed the back panel, but it is still very tight quarters. Anyways, upon removal of the tantalums, some of the traces on the board pulled up and separated and now I have nothing to solder to and because it is such a tight space, I can't see a bloody thing.
Would it be possible to attach the caps from the top?... -
Re: Re-capping CD Players...
I just finished re-capping my vintage Technics SL-P3 and Sony CDP-302. For the Technics, I used Nichicon PW in the power supply and a mixture of Elna Silmic II, Nichicon ES Muse and Fine Gold on the main board. I also replaced the caps on the transport with Nichicon MW miniature caps. For the 302, it got mostly Nichicon PW throughout except for the analog output coupling caps which were Elna Silmic II. I really can't say they sound any different, but they should hopefully last quite a bit longer now.Leave a comment:
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Re: Yamaha C-40 pre-amp recap
Excellent. I think I'll use the Fine Gold Muse series....Leave a comment:
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Re: Yamaha C-40 pre-amp recap
Thanks for that. Looks like they still use the "KS" name, but they are nothing like what is in the pre-amp. The new ones are large snap-ins, whereas the KS in the pre-amp are green, say "Muse" on them and are much smaller value.Leave a comment:
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Yamaha C-40 pre-amp recap
First post here. I have been recapping some of my audio equipment for the past year with good success. My next project is my 1980's era Yamaha C-40 preamp. I was surprised when I cracked it open and saw a bunch of very high quality caps right from the factory - Black Gates, high end Nichis, Elna "For Audio", etc.
Many of the caps on the board are no longer manufactured, so I'm trying to match up the closest equivalent manufactured today. The two caps that have me stumped are:
Nichicon SE
Nichicon KS
What would be their equivalent replacements... -
Re: New Members - please post your introductions here
Hello. I have recently begun recapping audio equipment and I am still learning. Looking forward to some good discussions.Leave a comment:
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