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ArcticMinibike
Member
Last Activity: 04-16-2016, 09:23 AM
Joined: 12-05-2015
Location: Omaha, NE
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight

    Order of the panel layers....

    I found a video on YouTube that gave me a clue. I swapped my layers around and it looks much better, no more shadows of the backlights showing through when an all white picture is displayed.

    Correct order is to put the thick white plastic layer closest to the lights, then the thin film sheet (silvery side towards the light), then the lcd panel.
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight

    Thought I'd post a follow up. I FINALLY fixed the TV. ShopJimmy.com investigated and realized that they mistakenly indicated the power supply they sold me as a compatible substitute. It was not. They refunded all my money and even paid the return shipping for me. That's quality customer service.

    I waited for 2 months to get the correct LED strips for this model but finally lucked out when they showed up on eBay. My original power supply was fine. The TV works GREAT! I've been careful to turn down the Backlight and Brightness...
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight



    What is the best way to determine if mine are single or dual?

    I'm assuming I'll have to pop the lenses off to do the diode test, or is there a way to do it without removing?...
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight



    Exactly. The lights I'm finding on eBay are $10 for 2, assuming they are a correct match. I suppose I could fix the strips for $40-$50 if it really is that simple.

    As for the diode test, I don't know if my meter will do that. Probably....
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight



    Strike that, reverse it...

    The top strip (fed by pins 1 and 2) has 6 or 7 lights out (out of 12), and they are very dim. The bottom strip has only 1 light out and the other 11 are much brighter than the first strip. Neither is anywhere close to operating brightness.

    I saw someone selling individual lights they harvested from Samsung strips by cutting the strips into pieces, along with "easy" installation instructions. Sounds interesting. I might be able to salvage at least the strip...
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight



    One strip had 5 or 6 bad lights, the other had 1 bad light for sure. The strip with one bad light glowed very dimly, the strip with multiple bad lights glowed brighter. None were anywhere near what they should be....
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight



    The good news is that ShopJimmy confirmed that the 493 board is NOT a valid substitute for the 665 board. When I pointed out my troubles, they investigated and profusely apologized for the mix-up. They said they have had that listed as an alternate for a long time and until now, nobody brought it to their attention. Their techs confirmed it would not work, at least, not without modification. Their web site has been adjusted accordingly.

    They have offered to let me return my original and second replacements at...
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight



    So did you use the wiring harness from the new TV or the black and gray (alternating) harness from your original photos? The 493 power supply with the side by side large blue caps can't work with that gray and white harness if pins 1 and 2 go to the first light strip and pins 4 and 5 go to the second strip. ShopJimmy confirmed it would not work.

    At any rate, I'm glad yours is working. I am having trouble finding a set of light strips for a reasonable price. Most people on ebay seem to want $40 EACH. A pair...
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight

    Would you agree that the 493 power supply is NOT a valid substitute? I think I have justification to go back to ShopJimmy and ask for my money back. What do you think?
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight



    How do I know for sure my original 665 PS/driver board is OK? I always assumed something had to go wrong on the board to damage the light strips. Is that wrong to assume? Do lights just go bad on their own? I thought LED's should last much longer than whatever hours are on this TV.

    I know I need new lights for sure. The tough part is finding them. SJ doesn't have them in stock and I haven't found them anywhere else.

    My biggest concern is that I find them, plug them into my original 665 board,...
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight



    I was seeing the 170 VDC on the 493 board when checking the pins on the PS with no LED's attached. that was on pin 1 to ground and 2 to ground (chassis). That value cycles up and down from around 170 to 180 VDC, just as Johnboy reported on his PS.

    I put the original (potentially bad) 665 power supply back in to take some readings. In standby, I get 146VDC on pin 1, 0 on pins 2 and 4, and 128VDC on pin 5. The lights are not connected. If I turn on the TV, those voltages change. Pin 1 becomes 157VDC, pin 2 and...
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight



    On the 665 board, pins 2 and 4 connect. I can't easily see it on the trace like on the 493 board but a continuity check with the meter says they do. Pins 1 and 5 are independent of each other and any of the other pins. In other words, pin 1 is unique, pins 2 and 4 are tied, and pin 5 is unique. That's very different from the 493 where 1 and 2 are tied together and 4 and 5 are tied together.

    I have opened the panel. There are 2 light strips. on the original 665 board, pins 1 and 2 went to the first light strip...
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight

    The sad part is that this "Free" TV from my father-in-law has so far cost me $38 and about 8 hours of head scratching and stress. I could just go buy the new equivalent Samsung 32" for $180...but it's hard to let go of a challenge when I'm this far in.
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight

    "Substitute Part" PS from ShopJimmy BN44-00493A...
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight

    Original BN44-00665A PS...
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight

    I installed the supposedly compatible board and connected power to it. When I check the voltage, I get 170-180V on pins 1 and 2, 0V on pins 4 and 5 when measuring to ground on each pin individually. That's with the PS disconnected from the main board. When I connect it to the main board and the TV is in standby, the voltage on pins 1 and 2 drops to 95V. When I turn on the TV, The voltage on pins 1 and 2 returns to between 170V and 180V (it cycles up and down between those 2 values). This is a known good power supply, but again, not identical...
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight

    [QUOTE=budm;619352]Something does not make sense here, D1+ and D2+ are directly connected together (CNL802) QUOTE]

    Refer to my previous post that notes the differences between the 2 different but supposedly interchangeable power supplies. Perhaps what ShopJimmy means by "Substitute Part" is that it will function as soon as you chop up and rewire your 802 wiring harness.

    See how different the traces are on the 493 board from the 665 board. As you pointed out, D1+ and D2+ share a common pad, as do both...
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight



    CORRECTION: I mixed up the new and old PS. The NEW PS produced 170V - 180V on pins 1 and 2, just as the original author of this thread found on his PS.

    Here is the interesting part. I have the exact same TV he had, but mine had a different power supply in it, and I know it has never been worked on. I question whether the TV he found ALREADY had the power supply board replaced with the wrong one before he got it.

    I purchased my PS at ShopJimmy. My original board number was BN-4400665A and it has...
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  • Re: Samsung UN32EH5000FXZA, No Backlight



    I have this EXACT same problem. Did you resolve the problem? How? What voltage did you end up getting at each of the 4 pins, assuming you replaced the power supply board. What voltage did you get at each light strip.

    The TV was never worked on, I am the original owner. There are only 2 light strips and no jumper between. That is the factory config. I noticed this was questioned earlier in this thread.

    My old power supply was producing between 170-180V at D1+ and D2+. D1- and D2- were both 0V....
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  • Re: New Members - please post your introductions here

    Hi - new member here. This site has helped me in the past, but now I'm stumped. Time to ask a question of my own. Thanks for the work you all do in maintaining this site.
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