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NTkiller7000
Member
Last Activity: 03-15-2018, 10:32 AM
Joined: 12-03-2015
Location: Pike County, GA
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  • Re: advice for new toy *ahem* tool HP1220A oscilloscope

    Gotta dumb question: can I turn down the cathode heater to prolong the CRT life? I remember when I had the cover off, I saw the cathode was getting orange hot. Is that too hot, or normal? The reason I'm asking is I've never seen a CRT TV or monitor get their cathodes as hot as this thing does.
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  • Re: advice for new toy *ahem* tool HP1220A oscilloscope


    I set the time division to where the scope showed 2 waves on the screen, and the only way to see the edges was to turn intensity WAY up (don't do this for more than a split second, screen burn hazard!) when connected to the 2KHz square wave reference on the front of the scope. Maybe the transitions are too fast for the scope to pick up, or it's the fact I'm not using a proper scope probe (waiting for the probes to show up in the mail)...
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  • Re: dead Gigabyte GA 5-smm no POST no power


    Yup, tried booting the board completely bare +CPU, still no beep codes. In fact, i think that's the first thing I tried. No keyboard connected. My philosophy when trying to start an unknown board is to start with the absolute minimum equipment required to POST, add a keyboard, then go through CMOS setup to give it a quick sanity check (voltages/temps doing okay, set up devices, etc.). I still think it's strange for it to respond to the power button (CPU, NB and SB generating heat) but otherwise does absolute bupkis. The only possibility...
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  • Re: advice for new toy *ahem* tool HP1220A oscilloscope

    I picked up tp6100 probes off ebay, hopefully they'll be good enough for what I want. I'm not going to be poking around high voltage, so it should be fine. An isolation transformer should not be necessary for this particular TV, since it has proper line isolation on the board.
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  • advice for new toy *ahem* tool HP1220A oscilloscope

    Hi folks, I just picked up an oscilloscope on the cheap, a HP 1220A. Guy advertised it as dead ("[I]Won't power on[/I]") and I took a chance. Got it out of the box, and plugged it in. Mind you, I've never personally messed with a scope before, so I had no idea on how to operate it. Turned it on, and nothing. I then popped the cover for a look, and it was really clean inside, with no obvious damage. turned it back on, and I saw the CRT cathode light up. "[I]This thing can't be dead[/I]" I said to myself, so time to RTFM! OK, Online manual says set up scope as shown in picture...
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  • Re: Looking for a blow/butane torch to be used for heat shrink tubing


    Yep, works great. Turn the gas all the way down, hold an inch and a half away from target, and heat away. If your're careful, you can even desolder with it. I've used it to pull components off a dead single layer board for another project, just don't focus the heat in one place for too long....
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  • Re: dead Gigabyte GA 5-smm no POST no power


    I've got a P4 retro build already, but it has ac'97 audio, which makes DOS gaming impossible (at least if you want sound). That build works great, (for windows games, that is) Intel DH55TC, P4 HT 2.8GHz, GeForce fx 5200, 2GB RAM, triple booted with Windows 98, XP, and Lubuntu 17.04. Can play the mess out of Quake 3. With a CRT monitor too!. Only thing not quite correct is the logitech trackball, but I can't stand mice for FPS games. Anyway, sounds to me like this board might be a write-off, right? at least I have 2 (i think) good...
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  • Re: Looking for a blow/butane torch to be used for heat shrink tubing

    I have a $5 butane blow torch I found at Walmart of all places. Found mine in the checkout line. Works great for heatshrink tubes! have a look [url]https://www.walmart.com/ip/Eagle-Jet-Torch-Adjustable-Flame-Windproof-Butane-Refillable-Lighter/213634655[/url]Re: Looking for a blow/butane torch ...www.walmart.co
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    Last edited by NTkiller7000; 01-22-2018, 03:48 PM.

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  • Re: dead Gigabyte GA 5-smm no POST no power

    UPDATE: I washed the mobo with dilute vinegar and baking soda to remove the corrosion, didn't help. Anyone familiar with these old boards, and their quirks? Thanks.
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  • dead Gigabyte GA 5-smm no POST no power

    Hey guys, I need some advice, I'm trying to resurrect this old socket 7 mobo to build a Windows 95 / MSDOS game machine, and the board seems to be in a zombie state. Here's what it does: I started with putting a Pentium MMX 200MHz CPU in it, setting CPU voltage, clock multiplier, and FSB to stock values (old mobo, this stuff is set by DIP switches ). I put 128MB of RAM in it, hooked a monitor into the integrated VGA port, and applied power, and nothing. Well, almost nothing. The CPU, NB, and SB are generating heat, but the fans get no power, and the front panel lights do not come on. This is...
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  • Re: Behringer eurorack UB222FX-PRO power supply


    Yeah, the saying "They don't make 'em like they used to" has never had more meaning. You may laugh, but I've seen this personally in my own lifetime, even if I'm only 19. Remember the "old" era of 8 and 16 bit game machines? Besides the NES's issues with the cartridge connector, those consoles almost NEVER break. Then go look at the phat Xbox 360s. Most of the first hardware version had the red ring of death, caused by cracked solder joints under the GPU. Something cool I have that reminds me of better times...
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  • Re: Behringer eurorack UB222FX-PRO power supply


    Yeah, either that or planned obsolescence, most likely corporate bean counters like you said. I've seen some similar, but more devastating cost saving measures in some cars. A good example is 2005 Dodge Durango valve springs. The 5.7 HEMI engine that went in those vehicles was designed by Mercedes, but Chrysler thought they could "improve" the design by using cheaper parts, namely valve springs. They used the cheapest, pot-metal valve springs they could get their hands on, and that caused a lot of heartache. The springs...
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  • Re: original XBOX V1.6 no power

    I haven't looked at this board in a while, but I noticed a tiny resistor was missing. It's labeled R3F1, and I cross-referenced it to the other motherboard, where the resistor is labeled with the number "1003". There is some corrosion in this area, which makes me think this wasn't an optional part. The trace it's connected to appears to go toward the CPU. Maybe this is why it won't boot. Going to do more research, maybe raid some old electronic for a replacement
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  • Re: Behringer eurorack UB222FX-PRO power supply


    Yeah, I know, right? You figure they could spend what, $15 more and used quality components! But that wouldn't be any fun, now would it?


    I did notice that. Fortunately, I have a set of calipers that do nicely for measuring these fellas.

    So I did some looking around and found the part numbers I want to buy. Please review these and see if they will work.

    Nichicon LGU2G151MELA
    replaces
    XUNDA 150uf 400v x1

    Nichicon UVY2A331MHD
    replaces
    ...
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  • Re: Behringer eurorack UB222FX-PRO power supply

    Sorry for taking so long to reply, but I want to get this right... I took the power supply and pulled all of the caps off (couldn't read some of them, too crowded) and now I am looking for replacements. There are only 13, most of them small, but I want to be sure to order the right thing. I Know how to match capacitance and voltage, but what about all of this "series" mess? I know I need to find low ESR caps, but I can't find info on the original caps, so I don't know what to order. Also, in a SMPS, which caps are critical...
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  • Behringer eurorack UB222FX-PRO power supply

    Hi guys I have a behringer sound board that has a bad Power Supply. I have narrowed it down to bad capacitors. Take a look at these pictures.

    This is a broad shot of the whole Power Supply.
    [ATTACH]127205[/ATTACH]

    This is where the bad capacitors are. They are circled in red. The two larger caps I pushed down with my thumb, they were more swollen than this.
    [ATTACH]127206[/ATTACH]

    This is a picture of the bottom of the Power Supply. Notice the area boxed in red got a little hot.
    [ATTACH]127207[/ATTACH]

    The story...
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  • original XBOX V1.6 intermittent audio.

    Hey folks, I have another patient in need of intensive care. Along with my post on my console's motherboard, I would like to try to fix the parts console's motherboard, since the only issue with this board is the audio, and the fact that is NASTY. Check this out!

    [ATTACH]126602[/ATTACH]

    The folks at the game store I got this from had no history of this console, but all I know is I want to find it's previous owner AANNDD.....

    DUDE, WHATS WRONG WITH YOU!

    THIS CONSOLE IS FULL OF BUGS, AND LOOKS LIKE YOU BURIED IT IN MANURE!!!!...
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  • Re: original XBOX V1.6 no power

    cyjun1990, I'm trying to.

    Anyway, I've been fiddling around with both my board and the parts console's board, and I'm going to make a separate post for that board, since it seems to be fixable. As for my board, I cross-referenced the 3 unknown caps to the parts console's motherboard, which had Rubycon 1500uf 6.3V caps in those areas (the parts console's board has a mix of Rubycon, Nichicon, and SMG, whatever those are. ). So, my question is, is there a way to find out which ones are responsible, or should I bite the bullet, order all...
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  • Re: original XBOX V1.6 no power

    Sorry, I'll reupload them. In the meantime, try google chrome.

    Here is the system in its case, minus HDD and ODD.
    [ATTACH]126498[/ATTACH]

    Here is the motherboard by itself.
    [ATTACH]126499[/ATTACH]

    Here is a close-up of the board at the power connector.
    [ATTACH]126500[/ATTACH]

    Here is the front left corner of the board.
    [ATTACH]126501[/ATTACH]

    Here is the back left of the board.
    [ATTACH]126502[/ATTACH]

    Here is one of the large...
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  • Re: original XBOX V1.6 no power

    RobbieC, this is an unmodded console. In fact. I was the first person to take it apart. How I proved it was the motherboard is by swapping some parts out with this one. I took another board and hooked it to my console's PSU, and it worked fine, ruling out the PSU.

    The gold cap is from what I've read a RTC power cap, that's rated for 1 FARAD (kinda big, don't you think), but it's not leaking. I was poking around with a multimeter and found it holds a charge of 2V with the motherboard unplugged, so I don't think it's at fault here....
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