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karthur
Senior Member
Last Activity: Yesterday, 07:53 PM
Joined: 11-18-2015
Location: Tuscumbia
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  • Thanks guys for those suggestions.

    I did check the resistance across the buttons when they were pressed/not pressed. They all seemed to be working fine. When pressed they were like 0.2 ohms and 1mega ohms when not pressed. I see what Lotas posted above in post #16. I can look at those again.

    The "AutoVolume" is set to OFF in the settings.

    I have attached a pic of the board below. Yes, it appears to be similar to the one Lotas posted in post #9 above.

    I have tried to do an update, but it says I am up-to-date. I watched the YT video on...
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    Last edited by karthur; 06-07-2025, 09:11 PM.

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  • I took the batteries out of the remote so its totally out of the equation. I have 4 buttons on the back of the TV. Power, (+), (-) and Input. I press the power button and the TV comes on, but then the volume starts going up and up.... all the way to max of 100. Now pressing any of the buttons does not change anything on the TV. It wont even power off when I hold down the power button. To power it off, I have to unplug it.

    [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","title":"image.png","data-attachmentid":3653868}[/ATTACH]​...
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  • Thanks for those suggestions. Before pulling any boards or connections, I played around with it more this afternoon. Now when I press the remote Volume (+) button, the volume on the TV starts going up and up. If I don't touch any buttons on the remote it will go all the way to 100. But if I touch any other key, say the number "2" key, then it stops. I can press the Volume (-) button and it will go all the way to 0. But if I touch any other button it will also stop as before.
    Also when I go into the TV Settings menu, if I press the arrow down button, it will scroll through all...
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  • Vizio D65x-G4 Volume changes on its own

    On this Vizio D65x, the volume will change on its own. I don't mean like during commercials where the volume will increase. I mean its like the (+) volume button on the remote is pressed and the actual volume dialog is displayed on the screen going up. It will do this, then the volume may start going down. It might go all the way to "0"or it might stop at a different number, then start going back up. The whole time its doing this, the volume dialog is shown on the screen.

    It wont do it until it has been "ON" for 20 or 30 minutes, so it does seem to be heat related....
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  • I went ahead and ordered a new replacement board. Plugged it in and TV works great now. If I get a chance next week I am going to pull out some of those Moffett and see how they read off the board.

    I found a replacement new board at ShopJimmy for $40. I thought that was very reasonable....
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  • The 8 pin connector is CN5027. Checking between VS (pin7 or 8) and GND (Pin 4 or 5) reads 120k ohms. This is not a steady reading but gradually increasing.

    There are several of those under the large cooling fins. Q5001, Q5002, Q5003, Q5004, Q5005, Q5007, Q5008, Q5010, Q5020, Q5021, Q5022. When I check those with my meter in diode mode, with (+)Drain and (-) Source I get anywhere from 0.002 to .5vdc. not of them read 0L. IS this because they are shorted or because they cant be tested on the board?...
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  • Am I checking that correctly? Since this is a diode, its seems that between 1-2 and 3-4 should read as open in one direction, but closed in the opposite direction.
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  • Bear with me... I am new to checking these components. I found the cutsheet on the SF10S600D2 Diode. Below is the reading I get on all the legs. Doesnt matter what leg I put the probes on, I get 0.00 on my meter in diode mode. I see two of these diodes on my board (D5014 and D5014). Both of them measure the same way. Could both of these be bad or is it not possible to check them in-circuit?

    If I change to Ohms, I get 0.2ohms between 1 and 2 and also between 3 and 4. Again, same readings on D5014 and D5015.

    [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","...
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  • I got those three caps off the board. All three measure 9uf. I will order the correct ones to go back, that way will will not be questionable. Plus I am not so sure the legs on the ones I have are long enough.

    I checked all the MOFSETs on this board. The only one that I think is shorted is the D5014 (#SF10S600D2). That is, if I checked it right.

    [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","title":"image.png","data-attachmentid":3520199}[/ATTACH]​I got those three caps off the board. All three...
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  • Could I replace those with these type capacitors? These are 10uf, 50v also. If not, I would have to order the disc type.

    [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","title":"image.png","data-attachmentid":3520152}[/ATTACH]​Could I replace those with these type capacitors? These are 10uf, 50v also. If not, I would have to order the disc type.

    [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","title":"image.png","data-attach...
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  • A few more observations:
    1. From what I have found from other YT videos, the 5 blinks of the front red LED is normal. The should mean the TV is ON.
    2. When I plug in the power, there is a green led on the board below the power board that blinks. 5 seconds on - 1 second off.
    3. If I unplug the Y Sustain board and then plug in the power, the Vs starts at 220VDC then slowly starts to fall. With the Y Sustain board connected, the Vs starts at 1.0vdc, then falls quickly to 038vdc....
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  • Thanks for that. I have located those components. Will try to get them off the board tonight. I have some old boards I might could scavenge some components.

    Kirk...
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  • I ohmed between Vs and ground. Goes up and down between 5k and 460k ohms. This is with all the connectors on the PS board plugged in....
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  • I did more checking on the power board. When I plug in the 120v power, the PS_ON goes to 0.17vdc. Touching the power on/off button on the front panel doesn't cause the value to change. If I then unplug the power cord, the voltage increase to 2.96VDC. From what I have read, PS_ON >3 vdc = OFF and PS_ON<1vdc = ON.

    Its confusing to me that the PS_ON is .17vdc when I first plug it in. Shouldn't that be >3vdc until the power button is touched on the front panel. Does that mean the power board is the problem?
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  • Although mine is a BN44-00445A, here is a schematic I found for the BN44-00445C. Not sure how similar they are....
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    Last edited by karthur; 11-30-2024, 09:20 PM.

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  • Samsung Plasma PN59D550C1FXZA Doesn't Power ON

    I picked this up at a yard sale and the owner knew nothing about it. Just knew that it didn't work. I get it home and sure enough it doesn't come on. Here is what I do see/hear.

    When its first plugged in, I can hear a click. It sounds like its from the power board. There is a red light on the front by the control panel that blinks 6 times. When I touch one any of the buttons on the front panel the red light will flash. I pulled off the back cover and looked at all the board. Nothing out of the ordinary. Nothing looks burned or damaged. On the power board (BN44-00445A), there...
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  • Just a follow-up. I replaced the main video board from a different supplier. The TV works again.😅😅😅

    Many thanks everyone for the help on this....
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  • The best I can tell the markings on the IC905 says "WCAP".

    [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":3313126}[/ATTACH]...
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  • Davi,
    Here are the readings for all 14 pins from the power board. These readings are between ground and the pin with power on the board. For reference, I also show the pin map print on the board. The pins that I see are out of range are Pins 2 and 14. I am not sure what Vamp is, so 5 and 6 might also be out of range.


    [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":3311946}[/ATTACH]


    [URL=filedata/fetch?filedataid=344036][ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":3311945}[/ATTACH][/URL]...
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  • I have asked for a refund and I am ordering another replacement. What do you think about the readings I got on D407 and D409 (post #48 above)? It appears to me that D407 on the new board is no good because it should be ZERO with "+" on the cathode....
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