Re: PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
Toasty, no lugs on the heatsink, it was stamped to take some but none there, just the 3 fet's legs connect it to the board. (The small hole next to the fet thing on its own was created by me desoldering the wrong hole - looking at the board side it appears it was to take a diode although I dont think that is relevant to this)
On the front of the psu where the copper fins come out,there are bits of rubber as if to stop any chance the copper fins get bent back abit to make contact with the case and the exit hole in the case has a plastic...
chud
Member
Last Activity: 04-29-2021, 03:16 AM
Joined: 01-23-2010
Location: England
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Re: PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
sink is only attached by the FETS legs, it doesnt make contact with anything else.Leave a comment:
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Re: PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
ok, i blew more money on it and bought some new aerospace grade Bergquist sil-pad 2000 thermal pads, the best Farnell had.
This time I used no paste whatsoever, everything was cleaned in degreaser just for good measure too.
And what is the outcome? well I now get *just* 150-160V between the primary heatsink and earth. These pads are brand new, clean and have 4kV breakdown resistance so there is absolutely no way at all anything is conducting to it - anything remotely able to touch it has plastic hot glued to it.
...Leave a comment:
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Re: PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
Can hopefully see I have hot glued plastic film to anything that I thought may be possible to cone into contact with the heatsink
To the left is the bridge wire that was exposed under the sink which joins two legs of the fet's but not the middle legs that are backing onto the sink. ..and you can also see the track I lifted along with the holes little copper tube (oops!) which goes to a little ceramic disc cap, but its joined underneath too, so its ok
These are the fet's using the zalman paste and...Leave a comment:
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Re: PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
370: the larger heatsink on the output side sticks out of the back of the case and has a metal guard around it - I haven't touched that at all solder wise (and it isn't live).
I only removed the primary side one (small with no guard as it sticks inside the case) to get to some caps that were between it and other one.
I am pretty sure in the past I have touched that when pc was on, moving cables about inside the case and not got zapped and cant believe you could exposed live metal and it pass any basic safety test.
...Leave a comment:
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Re: PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
Dismantled it all yet again, used new elastomer pads from an old psu that hadn't touched any silver based paste, and re thermal pasted it vary sparingly with white Zalman (presumably zinc oxide paste). I also covered anything near it that was exposed with that plastic sheeting stuff used in the rest of the psu stuck down with hot glue.
The result - plugged in, but not powered on the mV readings were lower on 3.3/5/12 in line with other psu's I tested but still some were like 0.8mV instead of 0.
Pc again worked...Leave a comment:
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Re: PSU with good caps only? any suggestion?
Seasonic X-650 650W
[url]http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=169[/url]
caps all Nippon Chemi-Con & alot of solid ones - very efficient psu at about 90%.
If I cant get mine fixed to stop being a electrical death trap, I'll get one of these.Re: PSU with good caps only? any sug...aps all NipponLeave a comment:
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Re: PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
i'd very carefully checked for any shorts with multimeter before soldering it back in and there was nothing - just wondering if at high voltage the paste would allow leakage? I read up on it and there are odd articles saying its a bit conductive, but not at what voltage and how conductive it became.
Running under the metal of the sink at one end is a bridge wire that can be in contact with it and a couple of resistors the other end it sits on, either of which could possibly contact it if there ceramic is imperfect. There is also...Leave a comment:
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Re: PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
...the thermal paste i was using was 'Antec Formula 5' which contains some silver (I left some between sink and pad , and pad and FET, as there was white paste there previously), apparently although it is excellent thermal conductor it is meant to have negligable electrical conductivy..... Anyone have any real experience about this?
I also find it rather dangerous the metal PSU case is earthed, yet the heatsinks that stick out of the case are not and can get mains voltage on them easily, the only protection being very thin rubber...Leave a comment:
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Re: PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
ok, desolderer came, removed the heatsink, replaced the rubber pads and reassembled.
With it powered on, but not switched on, I am getting mV readings on the 3.3, 15 and 12v lines rather than 1/2 full voltage readings.
I checked this against 2 other psu's and found they do give some mV readings on some but 0 on others - the ones with mV readings are order of magnitude less, my max was 220mV on 12v, others were like 10mV.
Anyway I just had it pluged into a test pc and it fired up ok, bios voltage readings seemed...Leave a comment:
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Re: PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
Here are some pics - desoldering unit ordered , will be about 2 days before I can get sink block off.
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<BR>...Leave a comment:
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Re: PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
hmm there were definitely no washers of any kind on any of them, literally a bolt going through the larger pair of fets? and the sink, with a nut on the end, on the single fet? was a bolt with a threaded hole in the sink.
I'll have to wait for a couple of days until I get a desoldering unit to get them off and test, I cant face another hours battle with bloody wick!Leave a comment:
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Re: PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
Toasty: thanks ill try and get some pics up tomorrow - what I was getting at is why would there be anything other than the 5v standby current if its not powered on?
stj: i'd removed the thermal rubber pads the fets were mounted on to the heatsink in favour of decent thermal paste, id assumed they were just that and not performing any insulation? the metal backs of the fets arent conductive right?Leave a comment:
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Re: PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
stj: 99.9% sure nothing missed, it was working ok prior to replacing the last 12 caps, so pretty sure its something wrong relating to them or removal of fet's to get to them.
Toasty: switch deffo at 230V - without it being powered on with green-ground short, do you know why would there be any voltage at all on anything other than 5v standby (which is only correct voltage?)
I don't want to risk another session in a pc to get 'on' voltages after it blew the USB controller out on my main computer. (Incidently it did...Leave a comment:
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PSU recap that ended badly, ideas?
hi,
quick story recap -
pc failed to switch on again after poweroff, was intermittant then every time failed. Full power off and on would get it POSTing ok.
Replaced all obviously failed caps on output filter side and then almost always posted first time but sometimes not.
Decided to recap entire thing (further 12 caps including primary side, with best Panasonic ones I could get FM, TSED series etc.) and after connected to my pc (which nicely blew my USB controller after powering on) I thought I best test it some more before making same mistake again....... -
Re: Input filter capacitor replacement 560uF
softTest: thanks but shipping is £12 extra! Farnell is free shipping (and I allready ordered what is out of stock, before finding out its going to be months before they have any, so easiest to just change it)
stj: they only seem to sell SAMWHA caps which I thought were proper badcaps ?Leave a comment:
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Re: Input filter capacitor replacement 560uF
seems Farnell don't have anything in the ''TSED'' Series (high ripple) less than 1000uF @ 200v in stock.
So I am proposing to get the EETED2D102CA's
[url]http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeted2d102ca/capacitor-1000uf-200v/dp/1198614?Ntt=EETED2D102CA[/url]
Voltage Rating:200V dc
Effective Series Resistance:149mohm
Series:TSED
Height:45mm
Outside Diameter:25mm
Capacitor Case Style:Radial
Mounting Type:Snap-In
Lead Spacing:10mm
Operating Temperature...Leave a comment:
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Re: Input filter capacitor replacement 560uF
stj: ok thanks for that, I guess ill go for 680uF then - will need to Dremel abit of heatsink fin off, the existing Teapo are 30mm high, I think there is about 35mm of space, and everything I can find is 40mm high. The width has no room to manouver and is 25mm.
BTW my PSU is the Passive PFC version (W0050 ) of this review "Thermaltake Silent PurePower 350W Fanless Power Supply" - ;
[url]http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/ttake350fanless/[/url]
There are lots of pics...Leave a comment:
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Re: Input filter capacitor replacement 560uF
Khron, thanks for your reply, unfortunately they are both 85C ones and as the PSU is fanless it gets somewhat hot under normal operation, so feel they should really be 105C ones (and one of them is almost butt-up against one of the heatsinks. Do you know if 680uF ones are acceptable replacements for 560uF? Thanks for any advice.Leave a comment:
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Input filter capacitor replacement 560uF
Hi,
I am recapping my fanless Thermaltake 350W PSU and am having some trouble with replacement of 2 x input filter capacitors. (have recapped rest of it with mostly Panasonic FM)
The original ones are 200v 560uF TEAPO ones 25mm wide, 30mm high and 10mm hole spacing.
I was intending to replace with these, (same size except 40mm high) ;
PANASONIC - EETED2E561CA - CAPACITOR, 560uF, 250V -
AC Ripple 2.14A, ESR 266 - problem is Farnell are out of stock for months (UK).
only other thing I could find are;
PANASONIC...
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