Hi folks. Haven't been here in a while, but a recent repair project prompted me to post here as well. I originally published it on iFixit as a solution in response to Attila Fustos' thread:
I think the problem is on the controller board attached to the screen itself, at the other end of those two ribbons. This will imply removing the LCD from the metal casing to get good access to the board.
Bentek BP-200AD power supply for Daytek,Jwin, Hyundai LCD TV's
Just to help out more people I am quoting my own solution posted on fixya.com to cross-reference it to these Bentek power supplies:
I have just fixed the power problem on my Daytek 3220. It looks like this Bentek BP-200AD power supply is used in other cheap brand TV's besides this Daytek : Hyundai HLT 3280, Jwin JV-DTV3212.
At first, my TV would just lose the backlight, while the video and sound would still work fine. Power cycling the tv would correct the issue, but would repeat the problem after shorter periods of time.
More recently, I've started losing...
Please note that the signs of an overheated Q1 may or may not be so obvious.
In my case Q1 was showing a very slightly fogged band across the center of the transistor, which was of course extremely easy to overlook until I used the watchmaker loupe.
There's also an extreme situation pictured here:
[URL=https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7016&page=3&pp=20]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7016&page=3&pp=20[/URL]
Toasty, you pointed me to the right direction (3845 ic), THANK YOU!
As I said, there were no signs of overheating, burn marks or anything like that and everything checked out ok...apparently
So, I started pulling out the smd transistors around 3845 to measure them.
One little sneaky bastard 1p transistor (2n2222a smd type, NPN bi-polar) right next to 3845 was damaged internally!!! Junctions B-C and B-E checked out ok but when checked the E-C, I've...
When I said "...but you're the only member that can still help me with this insane psu." I seriously meant : you're the only member I've read about [U]having the exact same psu [/U] as I have. I obviously didn't mean in any way to be disrespectful to the other members and their knowledge.
Just wanted to clarify that.
I have just found out late last night about the noise supression winding on T1, and you just confirmed it. Thank you.
Well, after a good night sleep, I decided to give this piece of junk another chance... so after reading multiple posts here and across the net, I have managed to start it with a modded CoolerMaster ATX plus a laptop psu (for backlight 24V).
The modding was fun, but I'd like to clarify that this Imac's backlight doesn't work without the 24V.
I am still trying to fix the damn psu, since there's no way in hell I'll be paying 100+ bucks for such a lame psu..
Well, since I haven't got too many suggestions on this psu issue, and being too tired of wasting my time on it, I guess I'll do myself and everybody else a favor and turn this iMac cr@p into mush and throw it in garbage...
After all, that's where Apple products belong anyway!
Toasty, just for the fun of it, I have left the psu WITHOUT the diode and it does exactly as it does with the original diode: 20v and 5Vsb and nothing else (jumpered on or not).
This re-confirms the original D10 diode is dead.
I will try getting an ultrafast replacement for it to see what happens.
You've got me really confused with your answer about the diode, since I've never heard of a diode that doesn't indicate anything on the dmm.
Of course I pulled it out to measure it. It shows open both ways. Nothing, dead..
I am getting 20v and 5Vsb with this diode installed (psu jumpered or not) that's all.
I tried to replace it with another fast recovery diode from a good PSU and that kills all the voltages. I have checked the polarity on the diode and it was correct.
Toasty, I am troubleshooting the PSU now. I've recapped all the Nichicons I've found, bulged or not.
And then I've found this diode which shows nothing when I put the dmm on it (for diode reading).
So Toasty, you're saying this is normal? I'll put it back then, but I still can't find out why the PSU refuses to turn on anymore (out of the imac, just jumpering ON).
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