Re: Help with Motor Start-Cap
Thanks for all the input guys, I am pretty sure this thread has come to an end.
Motor apart, rotor out, I think something has hit the rotor whilst spinning, breaking the windings. I'm scratching my head as to how/what but from what I can see on the [B]opposite[/B] side of the breaks, just below the two bent commutator points there is a gouge in one of the copper segments leading me to my conclusion.Re: Help with Motor Start-Cap
Thanks for all the input guys, I am pretty sure this thread has come to an end.
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Re: Help with Motor Start-Cap
I have also just noticed that two of the points on the commutator are bent up. There was no evidence of loose debris inside of the case when opening the unit, but it looks like something may have caused damaged to the motor while running....
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Re: Help with Motor Start-Cap
Nothing has been in there except my fingers. Exactly as I received it. Although I did move one strand of the copper so it could be seen easier in the picture... The screw driver would be the easy answer
Initially I wasn't sure if I was just looking at the ends of windings or broken strands. What makes me wonder about this though, is how did the motor run for a second on the first few attempts (now I cannot get it to even do that, just dead). Maybe partial contact and spinning loose?
...and although it...
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Re: Help with Motor Start-Cap
I connected it directly to the main leads coming off the motor, without the board or multi-cap connected. First 12VDC, then 24VDC and nothing...
..and sorry for the quality of the images but I found some suspect wire in the windings around the rotor, could this be the culprit?...
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Re: Help with Motor Start-Cap
These are the Hi/Lo speed control switches. 1 depressed is Lo, 2 depressed is Hi....
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Re: Help with Motor Start-Cap
Thanks guys, I have a few leads to investigate further now. There really isn't too much circuitry on this motor, what would happen if I bypassed the board and gave the motor 240v directly?...
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Help with Motor Start-Cap
I'm working on a 'Miele Electronic 850 (Air Clean Plus)' vacuum cleaner, which has an AMETEK motor Model 119318-52 or 5079330 also labelled BC 30-5990 (240 volts 50/60 Hz)
The motor has stopped working (mostly). When left unpowered for several hours the motor will fire up for a few seconds, then go dead. I have removed the motor and assembly, cleaned and checked brushes. The wiring seems okay and there doesn't seem to be any signs of burned out electronics. My DMM checks show me 230V after the Hi/Lo switches.
For the above reasons, I think the cap attached to the...
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Re: Soniq L3212A
Have you tried using the button panel on the TV when it's not responding to the remote?
...also, check out the thread linked below (if you haven't already), it may have some useful information.
[URL="https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpost.php?p=351539&postcount=1"]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpost.php?p=351539&postcount=1[/URL]Re: Soniq L3212A
Have you tried using the button panel on the TV when it's not responding to the remote?
...also, check out the thread linked below (if you
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Re: UPS Battery Charging - Are My Batteries Boiling?
Thanks guys. Somehow that little piece of pretty important information slipped by me.. So would over filling the batteries have an adverse affect and if so, should they be drained to the appropriate level?
I read somewhere that when the rubber cell caps are pulled inwardly at the cell opening, it means they need water.
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Re: UPS Battery Charging - Are My Batteries Boiling?
Really?! This is the first I have received this advice. Is this due to contained pressure/equilibrium or other another reason? ...I'm guessing it's ideal for the chemical reaction?
Probably like many others, I've been following the misconception that they should be filled to just cover the plates....
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Re: UPS Battery Charging - Are My Batteries Boiling?
Good point. Based on that comparison I'd have to agree.. Although in my experience the average home office is generally not as likely to contain Ricin or Plutonium.
Storing a box underneath you at your desk that carries a risk of explosion, albeit slim to unlikely, is still a risk that deserves a little caution and respect in my opinion.
It goes without saying that the primary function of an Uninterruptible Power Supply, is to keep the supply of power...
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Re: UPS Battery Charging - Are My Batteries Boiling?
I agree completely and via use of a thermistor, doesn't seem to be that difficult to incorporate into the system. I'm not sure to what degree temperature compensation is built into the charge cycle of UPS's (if at all). I'm putting it down to cost over effectiveness on the manufacturers' part... One thing for sure is that 'effectively' charging SLA batteries is a whole lot more involved than one might first think and considering its a fundamental function of a UPS, they don't seem to do a great job at it!
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Re: UPS Battery Charging - Are My Batteries Boiling?
Thanks for clarifying. Based on that information I might move the one sitting under my desk connected to my PC. Breathing even trace amounts of sulphur couldn't be great... and yes, I agree about the capacity loss after recovering SLA batteries. Their initial charge can take 3 or even 4 days at low current and the voltage doesn't seem to climb much at all for a long time. But I seem to have a surprising ratio of recoverables. Although I've noticed the more sulphated the plates are, the more it affects their holding capacity, but...
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UPS Battery Charging - Are My Batteries Boiling?
I have just put 2x 7.2Ah 12v sealed lead acid batteries into one of my UPS's after servicing them (they were recovered from old equipment and were badly drained). I refilled the cells, charged them up and they test okay. The UPS is an 'Opti-UPS 1000C', 24v (2x12v) after connecting it up, I can hear the batteries bubbling as they take the charge current and measure at 28.5v on my DMM.
Question is... Does this seem okay? When charging the batteries, it's always said leave the cells uncapped to let the gas escape and avoid pressurising the cells and causing the battery to explode....
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