Hello all, long time no see! Haven't been active here in some time due to a job change, still in the electronics field but not doing board level work anymore. Good to see some familiar names still around, and some new blood as well!
Anyway, I'm hoping that you guys (and gals) can offer me some advice. I am trying to find a rotary knob, not a potentiometer, for a personal project and after browsing some offerings on Mouser I quickly realized that I don't know the correct terminology for what I'm looking for. I am trying to replace two separate momentary push buttons that function...
Player2
Senior Member
Last Activity: 12-19-2014, 12:37 PM
Joined: 08-14-2009
Location: Florida
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Advice on finding a rotary knob
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Re: insignia ns-l46q120-10a: no picture only sound
Can you post pics of the inverter and power supply boards? Could be that the inverter isn't getting power. -
Re: ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe
I'd leave the 100uF KMGs, caps that small rarely cause a problem. They're rated to 105 deg. C too, so I wouldn't worry about them. The Panny FJs are good too. Just take care of those 1000uF KZGs and you're golden!Leave a comment:
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Re: MS-7548 Failed TK Caps
Finally got around to checking my notes on this board, been out of town for Thanksgiving. The MOSFETs I had to that I mentioned were Q54 and Q55, by the end of the RAM slots, and Q29 and Q30 between the RAM slots and the floppy connector.Leave a comment:
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Re: hp compaq d530 sff mobo bad caps question
The reason for the difference in ratings between the tall caps (normal electrolytic) and short caps (solid polys) is that the polymer caps have a much lower ESR and much higher ripple current rating, if capacitance were equal. The important characteristics here, where you're replacing caps on the VRM, are ESR (lower is better) and ripple current rating (higher is better.) Looking at the datasheets for some of the better caps, an 820 uF 2.5v poly has nearly half the ESR and more than twice the ripple rating of a very good 1800 uF 6.3v...Leave a comment:
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Re: TOSHIBA P775S7100 mother board help..?
So you have two other USB ports that still work? Is there not an identical transistor by those ports you can read a P/N off of? Can you post a focused, high res pic?Leave a comment:
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Re: hp compaq d530 sff mobo bad caps question
You can replace all of those caps in that row with solid polymers. The four short purple ones look like polys already, but I'd just as soon replace the whole row with the same brand/series. 820 uF @ 2.5v should be fine for all of them. Just be sure to purchase the same diameter replacements (8mm.) You can get them from the site admin: [url]https://www.badcaps.net/pages.php?vid=25[/url]
What brand/series are the three next to the pink printer port? The others on the board with the black casing look like Nichicons, they should...Leave a comment:
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Re: MS-7548 Failed TK Caps
What seems to be working? Is the CPU fan spinning? Does it stay on, or cut out after a second? Are you getting any beeps when it powers on? Have you tried a different VGA cord and monitor?
You can pick up a used AM2 CPU on eBay for around $15-20 to test it. Wouldn't hurt to have one on hand for testing purposes in the future anyway. It's pretty rare for a CPU to fail though.
What type of caps did you use as replacements? Have you double-checked to make sure none of them are...Leave a comment:
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Re: MS-7548 Replaced Caps - No Fix
Well I got it running... Turns out that the CPU fan I was using was not turning enough RPMs (it's an oversized fan/cooler) and the mobo was kicking off immediately- no beeps, no error messages, etc. Once I plugged another fan into the CPU fan header and plugged the CPU fan into the system fan header, it came up and immediately gave me a message that the system fan was failing. Anywho, it's running great now. Guess I missed this because the other board I was using to verify the components had no problem with the CPU fan running 800-1000 RPM....Leave a comment:
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Re: MS-7548 Replaced Caps - No Fix
Did you ever get anywhere with this board ferb? I'm having the exact same issue- recapped and it still spins the CPU fan for about a second then stops, no POST, no beeps, etc. Will not spin up again until I unplug/replug the PSU.
I'm using a known good PSU, CPU, and RAM (all working on another AM2 board.) Replaced the VRM caps with polys, others with Nichicon HZ and HN, everything 6mm and larger were replaced. I also had some FETs that were shorted or reading off, both in and out of circuit. Replaced those, still no change. Any ideas...Leave a comment:
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Re: Infocus projectors 3 of them to be exact
I know this post is old, but did you ever have any luck fixing these projectors? I've got an InFocus ScreenPlay 5000 that is having the same issue. Granted, it's a 3-LCD projector (I think your LP models are probably DLP), but the PSU is probably similar.
In my case, it is a dead PSU problem, but something else in the projector is killing them. After the first one died, I swapped in a spare. That one lasted about a week and died as well. Then I swapped the PSU and ballast, worked for a day, and died again.
...Leave a comment:
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Re: Netgear WGR614V6
Just chiming in because I just fixed a Netgear router (WGR824 v2, IIRC) that had siilar symptoms to the OP's. As some have suggested, it did turn out to be the wall wart. Check the voltage with a multimeter, the voltage on mine was very low. Turned out to be a visibly bulged cap on the output, after replacing it the router has been working fine for about a week now.Leave a comment:
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Re: DFI LANParty nF3 250GB going wonky, and bad caps
I've got this same board, and it has had a multitude of issues. Turns out it was full of UCC KZGs, several were blown in the VRM and a few others here and there. Also, the Antec PSU it was running on had some blown caps. I decided it might make a nice test rig (mainly for AGP) so I recapped the board with polys and cleaned up the PSU as well. Haven't fired it up yet, but I'll let you know how it turns out.Leave a comment:
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Re: Identifying badcaps in a Xbox360
Sorry to bring up an old post, but I ran across this thread in a search. The Rubycon MFZ in question is not simply a lead-free MCZ replacement, MCZ is already RoHS compliant. MFZ is actually lower ESR (7mΩ for 2700uF @ 6.3v) than any MCZ. There is no MFZ datasheet, but if you scroll down to page 8 (or just search MFZ) in this document you'll see the ESR rating:
AFAIK, the only 'lytic that can touch those ESR numbers is Nichicon HZ. I'm certainly not saying MCZ won't work, just trying to share some info I spent...Leave a comment:
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Re: Anyone familiar with HVAC troubleshooting?
I will check the voltage from the thermostat. I think it should be ok, because when I try to run the system the relay is outputting 120v. The motor has one 120v line coming straight from the breaker, and a second 120v from the relay (it's a 240v motor).
It does have a cap, 7.5 uF 370v. The motor does not hum, and if I spin the fan it doesn't start either. The fan does spin freely. Basically the motor shows no signs of attempting to start whatsoever.
I am thinking the motor needs to be replaced....Leave a comment:
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Re: Anyone familiar with HVAC troubleshooting?
No, it's the fan at the inside unit which draws air over the coils to cool the house that is not working. The outdoor unit comes on fine, it just doesn't stay on for long.
It is getting 240v at the motor. It has two 120v lines (240v total) and a ground. That is what leads me to believe the motor is bad, there is no other line hooked up that could be kicking it off. The motor also has a capacitor, but it is passing voltage fine.
Granted I am not an expert, but it seems possible to me that...Leave a comment:
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Re: Anyone familiar with HVAC troubleshooting?
The fan does turn easily by hand, the motor does not get warm (at least not within about 10 minutes before I shut it off)....Leave a comment:
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Re: Anyone familiar with HVAC troubleshooting?
Checked it out and thankfully it does not have black streaks. Thanks for the tip!...Leave a comment:
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Re: Anyone familiar with HVAC troubleshooting?
Whereabouts would the expansion valve be located? The documentation I have on this unit is very limited (basically a wiring diagram and guidelines for mounting). The sound I described as hissing isn't abnormal, it's the sound I normally hear when the AC is working properly (minus the noise of the blower). Hissing probably was not the right word, it's not like pressurized air escaping from a tire for example.
AFAIK, the repair guy did not add dye to the system when he recharged it. He just said if it happened...Leave a comment:
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Re: Anyone familiar with HVAC troubleshooting?
The two lines at the coil are not the same temp, the larger line is cold and the small line is approx. room temp. If recharging the freon for a home unit is similar to a car it should be no problem. I'll try to find out what type of freon it uses, but I'm guessing it is R134a since the unit was installed in 2005.
Would low freon cause the blower (what I've been referring to as the 'fan') at the inside unit not to run? It seems odd that the blower is getting voltage but not running. There is not...Leave a comment:
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