Re: Cordless Norelco shaver
I would stay with NiCds. NiMH batteries are not capable of the high currents that NiCds can supply. There's no way to predict how long they'll last. It depends on the quality of the cells and how they're treated. Definitely don't overcharge them and try to run them full cycle as much as you can. There are several websites I've found on rebuilding battery packs for power tools, etc. Generally only one (or just a couple) of cells in a battery pack fail, causing the entire pack to fail. You can replace them after disassembling the pack and testing individual...
Eagle2a
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Last Activity: 01-24-2015, 12:09 AM
Joined: 08-10-2009
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Last edited by Eagle2a; 05-26-2011, 12:27 PM. -
Re: CMOS battery life
Thanks again for all the feedback and replies. After over a week of observation, it appears that the CMOS/RTC battery is still not charging but the CMOS data is generally retained if the main laptop battery is present. The CMOS data is lost immediately if the main battery is removed (without external DC power) or if the external DC power is unplugged without the main battery present. I haven't decided whether it's worth all the time and work required to completely disassemble the system again to replace the CMOS/RTC battery. I was running the laptop on external...Leave a comment:
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Re: CMOS battery life
@Agent24:
No, there isn't a jumper on the board. Sorry I forgot to answer your question.
And it does appear that the CMOS/RTC battery is finally starting to hold a charge. I'm not sure how much and how long it'll last but I'm not having to reenter the CMOS data every bootup like before. I'll have to experiment with having the main battery in or out to see if it has any effect, as well as how long the CMOS/RTC battery is keeping its charge. Thanks again for the replies and advice!Last edited by Eagle2a; 05-18-2011, 08:27 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: CMOS battery life
Thanks for all the excellent advice! I'll try it and see how it goes.
@Agent24 and PCBONEZ:
Now that you mention it, I think my very first PC (a blazingly fast 80286 that I later overclocked from 6 to 8 mHz as I recall) had some sort of AA-size battery pack for the CMOS battery. I totally forgot about that overclocking kit. It had a round clicky knob that allowed you to dial up the clock speed in 2 mHz increments. I think I tried to get 10 or 12 mHz but the system totally crashed.
Last edited by Eagle2a; 05-17-2011, 07:55 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: CMOS battery life
Thought about posting a new thread in the laptops forum but decided to post here since it deals with the same topic. Had to replace the motherboard in my Toshiba Satellite 1735 laptop recently and found that the new motherboard wouldn't retain the CMOS data. I was expecting to see a standard coin battery but it turns out that the CMOS/RTC battery is soldered to the motherboard, and web searches seem to show that it's a rechargeable lithium-ion battery. Apparently it's no longer holding a charge if that's the case. I initially thought about desoldering it and...Leave a comment:
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Re: Toshiba Satellite keyboards interchangeability?
Well, the Spanish keyboards that I was looking at had extra keys for their special characters and I was curious how they would respond. I realize the keyboard sends control codes that the keyboard controller and OS have to interpret in order to display the correct character but I don't have working experience with this topic. For example, I presume that if I switched my language to Spanish in Windows then everything would be fine with the Spanish keyboard, but I don't know what would happen if I retained the US English setting...Last edited by Eagle2a; 02-16-2011, 03:05 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Toshiba Satellite keyboards interchangeability?
Thanks for all the feedback and sorry for the slow reply. I finally solved my keyboard problem recently by replacing it with one from a parts laptop I was able to procure. It's amazing how difficult it was to locate replacement keyboards for this particular model at a reasonable price. Further research showed that keyboards for the Satellite 1000/1100/1200/3000 models would also probably work (albeit without the mouse cursor pointer) as they appear to be a direct replacement, unlike the 1800 keyboard I initially inquired about....Leave a comment:
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Re: Toshiba Satellite keyboards interchangeability?
On a related note, is there any chance of repairing the keyboard? The entire unit looks like a single printed circuit board with mechanical actuator levers for the keys contacting PC switches underneath a plastic film. I'm still baffled how the extremely small amount of water caused this failure and why this key didn't dry out and recover like all the other keys.Leave a comment:
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Re: Toshiba Satellite keyboards interchangeability?
Thanks yyonline! I somehow missed Impact during all of my searches but as you said, they're definitely not the cheapest. I don't think I'm willing to pay that high a price for the part but it was a great reference source.
Good catch. I missed the mounting tabs issue. I think I could still somehow make it work but it now looks like the main ribbon cable is *slightly* different too, with an additional pin (?) fused to the main section. I guess I'll have to think about my options now. The new OEM 1800 keyboard is under...Leave a comment:
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Toshiba Satellite keyboards interchangeability?
I thought I'd ask the technical experts here for some advice on a keyboard problem with my old Toshiba Satellite 1735 laptop. The keyboard suddenly went beserk recently where pressing a key caused all sorts of fast random bizarre actions to occur on the system. Closer inspection showed that a *SMALL* amount of water had somehow dripped onto the left side of the keyboard. I removed the keyboard and thoroughly dried it out, and subsequently it worked normally with the exception of the "A" key, which did not work at all. I figured it just needed to dry some more, but repeated prolonged... -
Re: Belkin F5D7230-4 bad Teapo SM
@moddolicous:
Sorry I've been busy and didn't see your reply. I haven't gotten around to recapping it yet but I was planning to at least replace the cap by the wireless antenna (in the lower right corner of the photo) to see if it fixes the problem. I'll let you know how it goes when I do it, or please do the same if you get to it first. Thanks!
That's interesting that your router has the exact same problem. None of the caps are bulging but I suspect this router probably got overheated as the ventilation is quite poor.Last edited by Eagle2a; 12-18-2010, 10:00 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: An old fave analog meter
Thanks Toasty. Yeah I haven't looked at it in quite a while but that's what I recall thinking.. that I need to somehow fab and solder in some replacement battery terminals. The thing looks like it's indestructible. I forgot about the internal battery for years, obviously.Leave a comment:
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Re: An old fave analog meter
I have an old Simpson 260 but it needs some repairs after being damaged by battery corrosion. I remember it was supposedly the reference standard when I was taking EE courses in college. The thing is huge and built like a tank.Last edited by Eagle2a; 12-01-2010, 02:10 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Belkin F5D7230-4 bad Teapo SM
Correction: the Sanyo cap is located at the lower right corner of your pic. I didn't look at it carefully enough. BTW what are those 2 small black cylindrical devices with the 3 embedded wires? I don't recognize them.
@shovenose: this is an extra router I got from a friend. I have no need for wireless N either. How do you have over 800 posts since you registered in August?!? Are you adding that much value to this forum? O.oLeave a comment:
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Re: Belkin F5D7230-4 bad Teapo SM
Thanks japlytic. Coincidentally I was just looking inside the exact same model recently (F5D7230-4, v.6002) trying to figure out why the wireless function wasn't working. None of the caps were bulging but they all were Teapos except for the larger cap in the upper left hand corner of your photo (by the DC power jack) which was a Sanyo as I recall. I can't remember if Teapos were one of the caps reputed to fail without bulging. The router works fine connecting to the Internet and with the wired LAN connections, but the wireless function doesn't work...Leave a comment:
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Re: Fan lubrication?
I second kaniki. While I haven't personally tried it, I don't think lithium grease would be a good lubricant. In my experience, almost any quality oil will do the trick. I have the Loctite synthetic lube with Teflon that stj referenced and it works well, but IMO no better than most of the other lubricants I've tried (3-in-1 oil, sewing machine oil, both conventional and synthetic engine oils, Slick 50 One Lube, etc.) As mentioned in my previous post, I had an excellent experience using SuperLube synthetic grease with Teflon in a video card HS/F last time and...Leave a comment:
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Re: Fan lubrication?
I've successfully relubed dozens of fans, including several that were almost completely seized up. In fact, I've never failed to restore a fan back to normal quiet operation yet. A few times I've had to repeat the process after the oil leaked out, and once I had to switch from oil to a light synthetic grease for a video card fan that was mounted upside down (to keep the lubricant from leaking out). The other thread referenced earlier gives lots of good technical advice for the process.Leave a comment:
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Re: You guys asked for it....
I was wondering why I hadn't seen her post in a while. What happened?
Excellent new forum addition, BTW....Leave a comment:
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Re: UPS Project
I finally figured out an RCD breaker is what we call a GFCI breaker here in the USA. Are you sure you aren't exceeding the max current capacity of the breaker rather than tripping its leaky current detection circuit? And can you move the computers to a non-RCD breaker protected circuit? That would be the preferred solution.Last edited by Eagle2a; 02-01-2010, 01:53 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Reverse polarity damage to battery charger
Okay I've done some more probing around and gotten more data. I now suspect the MBR1045 Schottky diode/rectifier in the right heatsink has failed shorted, especially since I'm measuring about 40 VAC in the DC output. I also suspect the large diode (blocking?) just above the transformer has also failed shorted, maybe leading to the Schottky diode failure. Any opinions?Leave a comment:
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