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Willy Dio
New Member
Last Activity: 07-11-2015, 11:45 PM
Joined: 08-13-2014
Location: Stow, Ohio
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  • Need help choosing tone board film caps

    I recently recapped an MCS 3233 stereo from the late 70's (similar to say a 30-50 wpc Pioneer from the same time period sound-wise). I used Nichicon FG in power supply, and Elna Silmic II in the amp and tone board.

    I noticed the amp board had a lonely set (1 per channel) of polyester film caps in the 47nf range, and decided to experiment and went with Vishay-Roderstein metalized polypropylene replacements not expecting anything going in, but again figured "why not" as I was already in there and thought it couldn't hurt going with something new and I was honestly curious...
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  • Re: Fisher CA 2420 amp, only EQ input works?

    Yeah, I never had this feature before and thought is was only needed to cut noise or something. I asked in "another" forum and no one pipped up, so figuring it might be an issue with the volume that was giving seemingly incorrect measurements, I spent forever getting it unsoldered, and "opening" it which it's not meant to be, cleaning the contacts thoroughly which were pitch black, then having the rear trace board snap with almost no pressure while reassembling but oh well. It need a new volume pot anyways, which...
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    Last edited by Willy Dio; 08-13-2014, 11:47 AM.

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  • Re: Fisher CA 2420 amp, only EQ input works?

    Thank you Steve ! It didn't come with any, and I didn't realize a jumper was needed. No sound in the right channel, but that's because I need to replace the volume pot which has broken traces unfortunately. Left channel powered right up with RCA jumpers though. So thank you for chiming in!
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  • Fisher CA 2420 amp, only EQ input works?

    OK, the amp in question is an integrated DC amp by Fisher. It's in the same family as a couple other CA 2xxx models, with the 2420 having more features, and being an 80 wpc variant. It uses the STK 0080 II Darlington packs, and has the voltage amplifier STK 3082 smack in-between those. This particular unit is CLEAN inside, with NO popped fuses, and IS getting power to each fuse. Absolutely no corrosion, all switches have had deoxit treatments, and all the soldered joints look good with no excess flux or signs of overheating. I did reflow a couple solder joints that looked weak. I got a good deal...
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    Last edited by Willy Dio; 08-13-2014, 10:12 AM.

  • Re: Need help identifying capacitor

    Since you already found digikey, if you haven't ordered a new cap yet (for the actual cap listed above) you can put an audio grade cap in the unit, and possibly get a better sound. Elna Silmic II, Nichion, etc. are better audio caps and depending where that cap is in the audio signal, replacing all the caps (doubt there's many there) can produce a better sound (subjective as people have different stances on this). When we are talking a .20 to a $1 difference in price for a cap, I say it's WELL worth the experimentation, especially in class D style...
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  • Re: New Members - please post your introductions here

    Well, after several different injuries over the past 7 years, I was forced to more home time. The boredom was quenched by initially starting with learning about PC stuff, from understanding the lingo, to bypassing "trial" and "demo" stuff (talking mid 00's) more for the learning as I wasn't interested in the software. This lead to a bunch of debugger usage, etc. In more recent times, I started thinking back to an MCS 3233 I had in my teens that my dad gave me that served well for 11 years before croaking and...
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