I have an Intel S2600CP4 motherboard with some hard to identify caps.
There is one cap that I'm sure is used to control power into one of the cpus that's gotten sheered off its leads.
the model number is pretty clear on the cap as:
470
1dL1zd
but google produces nothing for this.
I can find plenty of 470 chip caps that look like it, but I have no idea what voltage I'm looking for.
Picture:
[url]http://imgur.com/fjRrlp7[/url]https://I have an Intel S2600CP4 mot...identify caps.
volumetricsteve
Member
Last Activity: 09-18-2015, 08:50 AM
Joined: 07-24-2014
Location: East coast
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Intel S2600CP4 server board damaged cap
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Re: Matrox Parhelia DL256 broken chip-cap
ahhh gottcha, I'm on 120v, but that's a good starting point, i'm digging around for a 120v version
edit:
just discovered this, which looks pretty good unless i'm overlooking something:
[url]http://www.amazon.com/Saike-852D-Digital-Soldering-System/dp/B007G36ME2/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1419813499&sr=8-16&keywords=hot+air+120v[/url]Re: Matrox Parhelia DL256 broken chi... version<br /> -
Re: Matrox Parhelia DL256 broken chip-cap
that's the QID model, which is crazy expensive, even now it's like a 600 dollar card where you can find it. Mine just has dual DVI ports, but has really hi-res outputs so splitters can more easily split it up into 3 screens.
I'm looking at this for the hot air:
[url]http://www.heat-guns.com/steinel/hl2010E.html[/url]
I'm inclined to agree with you about removing the resistor, but I do want to be ready if it falls off, as it's being used in a machine that'll move around a lot
thanks again...Leave a comment:
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Re: Matrox Parhelia DL256 broken chip-cap
It would be, but this is also an incredibly rare video card, and provided the shipping is under 100 dollars, might be worth it. It's a tough call though as I'd need to work out some kind of insurance policy of sorts for it....
hmmmm...I'm sure I can get the resistor off with tweezers and a sharpened soldering iron/heat gun, the hard part would be getting the new one on, i'm not even sure my eyes are up to the job, I may need magnifying goggles.
oh, any preferences on heat gun?Leave a comment:
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Re: Matrox Parhelia DL256 broken chip-cap
I wondered if I can pull that off..any suggestions on hot air tools I could use? or really..I'm not above working out a payment plan to you if you (or anyone willing to jump in) could work something out.
I can replace the capacitor easy, but I'm not so sure about my hands at replacing the resistor package...Leave a comment:
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Re: Matrox Parhelia DL256 broken chip-cap
that will be an interesting challenge, as I have inherently shaky hands and the chip in question is incredibly small, is that the kind of thing a non-machine can even replace? I'm worried i'll just leave a wad of solder connecting all of its pins :/Leave a comment:
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Re: Matrox Parhelia DL256 broken chip-cap
allow me to amend, the picture I posted wasn't the actual chip in question, but the closest approximation I could find online at a moment's notice. Turns out the actual chips - all of them infact are black with no writing of any kind on them. is that a better case for them likely being zeros?
thanks again, I really appreciate it.Leave a comment:
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Re: Matrox Parhelia DL256 broken chip-cap
well, jeeze, thank you!
I'll give that a shot and post if it worked out.
bonus round:
near the same bank of vram chips, there are several little black (I assume resistor banks, maybe zero ohms) that appear to be bridging some of the vram pins into the gpu. one of these little things seems like it was crushed, I assume by the same force that lobbed off the ceramic capacitor. it's certainly small enough I can't solder it by hand, but any thoughts as to what that might be?
it looks...Leave a comment:
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Re: Matrox Parhelia DL256 broken chip-cap
Whoa! Thanks for the fast reply!
1.How did you know that?
2.Why would higher be better?
3.I would think the voltage of the cap should matter too, right? or are ceramics weird and voltage at that level doesn't really matter?
Thanks for your helpLeave a comment:
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Matrox Parhelia DL256 broken chip-cap
as mentioned in the title, I have a Parhelia 256 pictured here:
[url]http://img02.taobaocdn.com/bao/uploaded/i2/T1niBVXmNoXXc6KzQT_012423.jpg[/url]
which still works and seems to have no problems....however, I can plainly see on the back of my card there is a pair of surface mount pads that look like something broke off of them.
I can see from the card, there are a few banks of vram and each bank is accompanied by what appears to be a small, surface mount, presumably ceramic-chip capacitor. I'm pretty sure the missing cap is going to be identical to... -
Re: caps in parallel
I was considering doing exactly that, maybe in parallel with an LED so I could see how the light reacts when I took the battery away.
@retiredcaps
I appreciate it, but alas, any picture I could provide would be anything but focused. It would be interesting to see why this one went as insane as it did, but in the interests of focusing my time, I'll go get a new one.
@agent24
I checked and rechecked for shorts....unless the cap was shorted internally..I can't see where that would be the case....Last edited by volumetricsteve; 09-19-2014, 06:18 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: caps in parallel
Ok, interesting point....I'll try and get voltage readings off one that gets hot. Although, there has been another strange development. I booted the system with no cap in the 470uf slot at all, the system works perfectly fine without it (it boots, anyways) so, that surprised me. Then, I used a little voltmeter I have (it is only a voltmeter) to measure the pads for that cap. no matter what polarity I used or which pads I used (the area has SMD mount points as well as through-hole for the same cap, I can see they're PCB'd together) I got no readings at all....Leave a comment:
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Re: caps in parallel
That would make sense..but then why would the original electrolytic and replacement aluminum polymer get so hot? I'm wondering if when I put the tantalums in, I didn't create a solid connection...which would be surprising because the system seems completely fine, but I'll recheck that as well.
My plan is to measure voltage across the sections with no capacitor.
Measure voltage with the aluminum polymer, tantalum, and electrolytic.
I guess a key here would be to see if I remove the cap entirely and it still boots, chances...Leave a comment:
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Re: caps in parallel
Wow, that's intense, good thoughts though, all around. I'll check the re...oh crap, wait I can't check the resistance because my multimeter is trashed...I'll have to see if I can track down a new multimeter but I'll check all those things as soon as I can. I should point out - specifically in reference to polarity - I put in a few tantalum capacitors (2x 220uf and 2x 15uf caps in parallel to make 470uf) based on my understanding of the polarity and they didn't explode or heat up.
recommendations on multimeters?Leave a comment:
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Re: caps in parallel
I wonder about that as well...but then how is my board still functioning?
I'd think a short where a cap should go could spell disaster for sensitive electronics, no?Leave a comment:
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Re: caps in parallel
I sure did, the polarity matches what I did, and actually all marked caps on the board face the same way, interestingly enough.Leave a comment:
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Re: caps in parallel
This is getting even weirder...I have more testing to do, BUT....
I got a mix of ceramic and tantalum caps, set them up in parallel, installed them in my system where I get no heat issues...in fact, almost no heat at all, the system boots fine, boots OSes, runs, jumps, plays happily, etc. I assume the caps I've installed are doing something right.
However, when I go to measure the voltage across that spot where the leads on the board are for this cap, I show no voltage. Granted, I haven't tested it without any cap there at all yet,...Leave a comment:
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Re: caps in parallel
huh.....that's all interesting....not to derail, but if a cap has any ESR, that's resistance that augments the voltage of the output..right? I can't envision a situation where the output voltage wouldn't matter...but I'm sure they exist.
I have several of the same motherboard and I've only recapped one of them.
I checked another board and it had the right polarity shown, at least, the same polarity rules I used for all the other caps also appear to apply to this cap (the cathode faced the pci slots) so at least in keeping with the polarity...Leave a comment:
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Re: caps in parallel
I realize I made a mistake when I posted the "original" cap, this is the actual original cap (I took a good long look at original capacitor and found it was a part of the VR series of nichicon caps.
[url]http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/UVR1C471MPD1TD/493-5912-3-ND/3438545[/url]
the ripple current is really low, but I see it doesn't have an ESR rating at all...I'm guessing that means it just doesn't have any ESR?
That'd explain the heat of the cap I replaced it with, which has 10 mOhm ESR....Leave a comment:
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Re: caps in parallel
I'll check the polarity for sure, but for what it's worth, I've had the system on running stress tests (fully populated ram, pci and AGP busses) intentionally to stress the caps I put in the board, this is the only cap that heats up, but I'd think if I did it backwards and put it through that kind of stress, wouldn't it have gone nuclear by now? Thanks againLeave a comment:
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