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Akaister
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Last Activity: 05-24-2012, 12:22 PM
Joined: 05-18-2009
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  • Re: HP W22 Eliminate AC

    The finally tally on the 5V is 1300 ma. The 7805 limit is 1 Amp, I have several dual voltage bricks I can use. I know there are other regulators but I think this will work okay.
    Keeping it simple, I hope.
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  • Re: HP W22 Eliminate AC

    tom66,
    Success, I just removed the AC board, that felt real good. I used the 12V/5V brick, no problems.
    This is only temporary, I’m going to use the 7805 you suggested. Looks like great solution for 5 volts. I really appreciate the help on this.
    Thank you
    Take Care
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  • Re: HP W22 Eliminate AC

    tom66,
    Yes, 140 ma @ 5V
    Is there anything more than supplying 12/5Volt DC? I have a power supply brick with both voltages.
    Thanks
    dumpystig,
    I bought 15 meters of smd 3528 led’s (600 led’s). I used 58 top and bottom 116 total. Lots of time spent gathering info, my concerns were color temp and light banding. I had a plan before I started and it worked out. I’m starting #2 and will be taking lots of pictures. It’s a easy project.
    Led’s less than $6.00 per monitor, eBay.
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  • Re: HP W22 Eliminate AC

    5V is less than 1 watt (.7)
    I measured one of the three 5V wires, they are common (same source). Is that correct?
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  • Re: HP W22 Eliminate AC

    Will do
    Thank You
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  • HP W22 Eliminate AC

    I would like to eliminate the AC power section and run DC voltage. I've replaced the CCFL's with LED's (12V DC). The conversion looks excellent. It would be a nice bonus if I could get rid of the AC board.
    This is a HP W22 monitor ( I have three ), two more to fix.
    I want to power the monitor from one AC/DC power brick. If it's not doable this is still a win.
    Thanks for any guidance....
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  • Re: Inverter--power on

    Thank you retiredcaps,
    I spent hours looking for that trigger info and never landed on that web site. Everything I needed was there, I can proceed now.
    This forum comes through again, as always.
    Thanks again.
    ON = 3.5V
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  • Akaister
    started a topic Inverter--power on

    Inverter--power on

    Does the inverter power up using a voltage trigger? I'm going to use a wall wart power supply.
    I can't find any info on how to proceed.
    Thanks...
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  • Re: NEW recap video made and working

    Nice one!
    Thanks for not using audio, useless music etc. My very old slow DSL didn't pause and played straight through.
    The video quality was much better than most.
    That's some nice looking braid, what flavor? My ratshack stuff doesn't wick that well. I added the extra solder, didn't make any diff.
    Well done.
    TC
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  • Re: Antec EA 380



    I just noticed I posted in the wrong section. Lame for sure I am....
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  • Antec EA 380

    C403 - 10V-1000 - 8mm
    C406 - 10V-1000 - 8mm
    C503 - 16V-1000 - 8mm
    C504 - 16V-1000 - 8mm
    All OST.
    I'm curious about why the two 10V.

    All the 16V I find are 10mm, I sat some 10mm in there but not enough room. 504 and 403 against each other really killed the fudge factor. TC has some 8mm MBZ but I'm losing interest in this because of the 8mm sized caps. I have some 10‘s on hand that I can't use.
    My plan was to replace all with 16V- 10mm.

    The OST 8mm cap leads didn't match the holes in the board so they did some bending for...
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  • Re: Viewsonic LCD F200 Fuse

    I replaced the F200 fuse with a 4 amp glass type. Everything works, what a nice feeling when that monitor comes back to life.
    I saw another forum member (Kozimus) had done this fuse mod.
    Thanks for the help, I'll be back. I know I had some beginners luck....
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  • Re: ViewSonic N3760w LCD with bad caps

    I went to Digi-Key and typed in Panasonic FM, just pick your uf, voltage and match your sizes. It couldn't be easier, dig in. The Panasonic FM is a good pick.
    I bought 9 caps and 4 mosfets for around $8.00. They don't have a minimum purchase charge and they shipped them to me asap.
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  • Re: Viewsonic LCD F200 Fuse

    The F200 is the fuse on the Viewsonic LCD that is known to blow. I referred to open as in infinite, no continuity, blown fuse.
    Ran the test again and got no reading, infinite, open. I reversed the probes and got 18 ohms for a few seconds and then it went infinite.
    I'm going to replace the fuse and see what flies. And I will definitely test it again when removed. I have to wait for the fuse because I didn't know about the F200. I read a post that someone closed that fuse with solder but I'm not that daring.
    It had some bad Capxon...
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  • Viewsonic LCD F200 Fuse

    LCD Viewsonic Fuse F200 (marked 3).
    I was testing this fuse for continuity and it would go from closed to open in about 1 second. I'm thinking the fuse is open (bad) but there's a short somewhere on the board.
    Does this make sense?
    Just taking a guess, I'm learning as I go.
    I've got lots of great info from the members of this forum.
    Thanks
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