Re: Replacement cap advice needed for Panamax Max 1000+ Surge Protector/Line Conditio
The six diodes near ZD1 appear to all be TCE brand 1N4007 diodes. Actually, all 13 of the plain ol' diodes on the board appear to be 1N4007 diodes.
dchang0
Member
Last Activity: 06-13-2021, 08:49 PM
Joined: 06-20-2014
Location: CA
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Last edited by dchang0; 06-09-2021, 08:58 PM. -
Re: Replacement cap advice needed for Panamax Max 1000+ Surge Protector/Line Conditio
More parts lookups.
U1 = MC78L 12ACP (Motorola Logo) 543 = linear voltage regulator 12V output 35V max input. Mine measures just under 12V on output pin #1.
Q2 = H MPS A92 6H (last two digits could be 6A, 6H, GA, GH) = MPSA92 BJT (Bipolar) PNP transistor 0.5A.
Q1 = 2N 6517 EB541 = 2N6517 BJT (Bipolar) NPN transistor 300V 0.5A.
ZD2 = (National Semiconductor logo) G7AD (or 67AD) LM336 Z2.5 = LM336-Z2.5 reference diode, 2.5V. Mine measures 2.42V...Last edited by dchang0; 06-09-2021, 08:42 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Replacement cap advice needed for Panamax Max 1000+ Surge Protector/Line Conditio
Follow up with photos of the bottom of the PCB.
Hope this helps someone.
I'll be testing the transistors and diodes near ZD1 and will probably just replace them all since they're low-cost....Last edited by dchang0; 06-09-2021, 05:36 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Replacement cap advice needed for Panamax Max 1000+ Surge Protector/Line Conditio
Thanks for the explanations, especially confirming that there is nothing programmed externally.
BTW, the relays in my unit do work as expected; the delayed relay does start turned off and turn on after the delay. And I was able to confirm that the master-switched relays work when somehow I got the master switch working for a few seconds.
I'll take some photos of the bottom and upload them soon....Leave a comment:
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Re: Replacement cap advice needed for Panamax Max 1000+ Surge Protector/Line Conditio
I've replaced R6 with 100 ohm 3W, ZD1 with a 1N4749A, and R1 with a 15K 2W, and every single electrolytic capacitor has been replaced, and this problem still persists:
The main power switch does absolutely nothing. It's not broken--I desoldered it and tested it; it's latching on or off (not momentary on or off).
The unit basically acts as if it is turned on all the time. Basically it is the same problem as in [url]https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpost.php?p=987855&postcount=10[/url]...Leave a comment:
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Re: Replacement cap advice needed for Panamax Max 1000+ Surge Protector/Line Conditio
Thanks!...Leave a comment:
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Re: Replacement cap advice needed for Panamax Max 1000+ Surge Protector/Line Conditio
Zener Diode ZD1 is a 1N4749A, not a 1N4748A. I pulled mine (not charred) and the label clearly says 1N4749A.
1N4749A = 24V 1W
1N4748A = 22V 1W
BTW, before I took out the factory-installed 1N4749A, the voltage across it measured approx. 24.9V. That said, my unit is malfunctioning in that the power switch doesn't turn off the unit, so this voltage could be wrong. However, the label on the Zener diode is absolutely "1N4749A 519" regardless of the voltage measured...Last edited by dchang0; 05-16-2021, 03:23 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung UN55KU630DFXZA: Smart TV logo comes on, backlight off, then on, but blank
Ohhhhh, my bad. I misunderstood you.
Sorry to hear that it happened to you and that it's not fixed yet.
I tried resetting the EEPROM but it did nothing for me. Based on that and the explanations from Davi.p, I decided not to try to replace the EEPROM and instead replaced the whole board. However, if it does turn out that replacing just the EEPROM definitely fixes the board, I have the bad board and am able to desolder and solder SMT, so I would indeed go...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung UN55KU630DFXZA: Smart TV logo comes on, backlight off, then on, but blank
Very interesting! I wish I could do what you're doing (hacking the EEPROM). Thanks for the explanations so far!...Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung UN55KU630DFXZA: Smart TV logo comes on, backlight off, then on, but blank
Nice! I should try that (I still have the bad board).
How did you do the factory reset, if you don't mind sharing?
Or, if you could post a link to some documentation you followed...
Thanks!...Leave a comment:
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Re: Replacement cap advice needed for Panamax Max 1000+ Surge Protector/Line Conditio
FYI, R6 is probably a 3W 10K resistor, not 2W as I previously thought. It looks to be metal oxide.
R1 is probably 2W 15K resistor, not 1W as I previously thought. It looks to be metal film.
I might order 1W higher for R1 just in case.Leave a comment:
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Re: Replacement cap advice needed for Panamax Max 1000+ Surge Protector/Line Conditio
Mine is a good one (my whole unit is mostly functional). I just measured T1 in situ, no power to the unit, and it measures 0.03 ohms. You are probably right that it is a jumper. TILSN (Today I learned something new). Thanks!...Leave a comment:
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Re: Replacement cap advice needed for Panamax Max 1000+ Surge Protector/Line Conditio
On my unit, the charring under the PCB indicates that these components got pretty hot:
R1 (15K brown green orange gold)
ZD1 (Zener diode)
R6 (10K brown black orange gold)Leave a comment:
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Re: Replacement cap advice needed for Panamax Max 1000+ Surge Protector/Line Conditio
If it helps anyone:
C11, C12 and C14 have 5.0 or 5.5mm diameter and 2.5mm lead spacing.
C8, C9, and C18 have 10mm diameter and 5mm lead spacing.Last edited by dchang0; 05-10-2021, 09:59 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Replacement cap advice needed for Panamax Max 1000+ Surge Protector/Line Conditio
I've got the same unit without a fried T1 part. Never seen anything like it before.
It's like a resistor but has only the one black band on it.
Here it is in the center of the photo. I've included other photos of the board just for reference.
Thanks to Almighty1 in post #1 for listing out the bad caps. I will order those for my unit (they are not visibly bad yet, but the unit has started malfunctioning).
Thanks also to debellis in post...Last edited by dchang0; 05-10-2021, 09:57 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung UN55KU630DFXZA: Smart TV logo comes on, backlight off, then on, but blank
Thanks! Do you recall how it got that way? I'm wondering if this is the result of firmware bricking or something along those lines. (I got this TV from a neighbor who was throwing it out; they could not tell me how it went bad.)
If the user can cause this problem, then it would be nice to know what to avoid.
I'd really like to figure out how Davi.p fixed the bad board with the UART. I have a USB-to-UART dongle from programming Arduinos, just no know-how on...Last edited by dchang0; 01-19-2020, 12:12 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung UN55KU630DFXZA: Smart TV logo comes on, backlight off, then on, but blank
Davi.p:
Thanks very much for your help. Replacing just the main board did indeed fix the TV. It booted up right away (much faster than my broken board did).
Hopefully this thread helps a person with the same TV and same problem in the future.
Thanks again!Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung UN55KU630DFXZA: Smart TV logo comes on, backlight off, then on, but blank
Thanks for offering. You're correct, the shipping and other fees would be too high relative to the cost of a replacement board.
Thanks for clarifying that the EEPROM does not contain software.
I'll order a main board ASAP.
Also, Happy New Year!Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung UN55KU630DFXZA: Smart TV logo comes on, backlight off, then on, but blank
Oh, thanks--that's what I thought you meant.
Do you think that replacing just the EEPROM will work? (ShopJimmy does not have the main board in stock.) I expect that replacing the EEPROM will [B]not [/B]fix the problem, but if it could, it would cost much less than the whole board.
Thanks again!Re: Samsung UN55KU630DFXZA: Smart TV logo comes on, backlight off, then on, but blank
Oh, thanks--that's what I thought you meant....Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung UN55KU630DFXZA: Smart TV logo comes on, backlight off, then on, but blank
Thanks for your advice!...Leave a comment:
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